Those readings are fine, the ICP might still be leaking however. Typically the ICP will leak before the IPR will, they are known to go bad.
As you may or may not know it's a real treat on these early builds to get at the ICP.
You will need the correct socket to get it out if that is the culprit, and check the pigtail good as well, for oil soaked condition. If so, replace it or you will still have issues.

As for your MPG, you stated 30 to 40 mins of idle time, that is gonna drag the MPG down big time. Do you have the high idle mod? These trucks don't like so much idle time and that mod might save some headaches.

 

I've been reading several threads regarding ICP replacement. Sounds like a challenge but I'll be ok. I was a tech for 15 years.
What the hell is with the price of the ICP? It's basically an oil pressure switch. Any particular place to get the best deal and anyone have the part number for an 03
I figured my idle time was a factor. I get to work around 5:15am and when it's cold I let it run about 20 minutes until I go in the plant. I've been trying to let it only idle 10 minutes. My truck has high idle. It actually does it on its own and rather quickly after start up. Even if I had a switch I would wait the same time begin running the rpm up just to ensure good oil flow.
So it's funny with these things. You need to build some heat in the 6.0 before driving but that idling hurts mpg. I usually wait to drive until ect is at least 100 degrees. I must admit, I need to stop driving the X around town on short trips too. I've been waiting for some parts for my wife's vw so she's been driving my explorer. Once the vw is fixed I'll be driving the explorer on short trips and the X just to work 4 days a week.

 

Yes, they are not cheap, you aren't the first one to comment on that.
With that said, only OEM here will work. You can try a woo-flung-dung special as others here have, only to replace them a month later after they start wigging out and fail.

I get my OEM stuff from Autonation, formerly Tousley Ford

ICP sensor, 03-early 04, rear mounted (I.C.P.) : AutoNation Ford White Bear Lake | Parts & Accessories

Ed at FICMrepair.com is likely priced the same.
You might be a good candiate for a 200* Mishi t-stat, the 6.0 is happier and more efficient up around 200*, many of us have seen a gain of 1 mpg or more.
Can always try cetane boost as well.

DTR has a good vid for the early builds.

 

I had pretty much resolved to only oem on 99%of the X. Especially items like this. Not good feedback on the Amazon version of the ICP anyway. Seems like ford knows they have a captive audience.
I look into three thermostat to. Thanks for the help.

 

We carry the Mishimoto thermostat, the ICP sensor, and everything else that you need - just for less - yep, even less than Tousley, lol.

Www.ficmrepair.com ftw!

Ed

 

Well I'm pretty certain my oil leak is just the drivers side valve cover. It doesn't appear there is any oil leaking from the top of the motor down. Definitely see oil around the outer edge off the valve cover, from front to back. Although there is more residue around the 90 degree plumbing elbow someone put in the valve cover for the crankcase breather that is now dumped under the truck. Is it common practice to install a plumbing elbow and is the valve cover threaded to accept such a thing? I guess it's quite possible that the oil is coming from there. Kinda hard to tell for certain.

 

Sounds like it has the CCV mod, could very well be your leak.
There are a few that do them but not real common. No, the valve cover is not threaded, so possible it just needs a new o-ring

 

I don't know what originally would have been in the vc in this hole. Was the original piece just pushed in with a grommet? I'm just trying to be clear before I go and just start tugging on this pipe. I think it would be a good idea to replace the o ring. At least eliminate that leak.
I'll have to look in my records i received with the truck but i remember it had 1 new injector installed when the truck had less than 50k miles and i would bet it was on the drivers side. Safe bet that's why it's leaking.
Should i reseal it with the ford silicone on the old gasket or replace the gasket?
Still didn't know much about the occasional rough idle.

 

Originally there would be a tube that turns up and into the turbo inlet housing. The OEM o-ring is a thin green one, not sure what would work with a plumbing fitting.

Not sure I would use silicone, you don't want anything finding it's way back to the IPR screen
Any codes at all?

 

Ok I suppose I'll start by removing the valve cover and inspect the gasket on the vc and how the pipe is held in. If the vc gaskets not replaceable i suppose a new vc is in order.

 

You can reuse the VC gasket, just clean it up good and the sealing surface of the cover itself, be sure you don't over torque!

 

Ok. I think I'll replace the gasket since I'll be that far anyway.
I would like to be more sure about the health of the ICP and if there are any leaks up there but it's so hard to see anything up there. Oh well. I'll wait until the idle issue gets worse or I see lower hpop pressures, which you said seemed normal. Thanks for your help. I respect your opinion about these matters and really appreciate the help.

 

I know this is an old thread but did you ever get closure on the cause? I've been chasing this for over a year and replaced so many things. I will get off the freeway and my ipr will jump from 21% to 25 at idle. Sometimes will drop back down by the next light and sometimes will stay at 25 at every stop. If it was constant, I would say Hpop but it isn't. So I'm looking for longshots.