Steering Wheel Repairs - Does and don't!
#16
#17
In the vintage phone collecting hobby, Bakelite restoration is pretty thoroughly covered. I believe most have used JB Weld epoxy to repair broken corners on Bakelite housings, but I don't know about long-term wear and tear. It was long thought that there was no way to restore the finish without paint once the sawdust fillers are exposed, and the gloss disappears. I have recently found that using 180 grit sandpaper, followed by 400, 800, and 1500 or 2000, then using a buffing wheel attachment on a stationary grinder will make the finish perfectly glossy again. It all depends on how bad the surface is; if it still retains a little of its original gloss, it can be restored very easily with 0000 fine steel wool and a buffing wheel. If the gloss is gone and the surface is very pitted, you will need to use the sanding methods described above. It's very thorough and time-consuming, but it might be helpful for someone who doesn't want to paint their steering wheel.
Then again, painting may be a better option for steering wheels exclusively, as the Bakelite surface reacts poorly over long exposure to human skin oils, contributing to the pitting seen on heavily worn Bakelite.
Here's the link to the Bakelite restoration section of the Classic Rotary Phone Forum, in case anyone is interested. We are a pretty small group, so there isn't as much content as there is here, but there are interesting methods anyway!
http://www.classicrotaryphones.com/forum/index.php?board=21.0
Then again, painting may be a better option for steering wheels exclusively, as the Bakelite surface reacts poorly over long exposure to human skin oils, contributing to the pitting seen on heavily worn Bakelite.
Here's the link to the Bakelite restoration section of the Classic Rotary Phone Forum, in case anyone is interested. We are a pretty small group, so there isn't as much content as there is here, but there are interesting methods anyway!
http://www.classicrotaryphones.com/forum/index.php?board=21.0
#18
Christian's 1988Ford,
Excellent information about Bakelite...Thanks
CharlieLed,
Awesome stuff! I tried to give you some reps but I guess I have to spread it around a bit more first. The silicon putty is a great idea.
FTE is a great place. I learn something every time I log on (now if I could just remember any of this stuff I'd be in great shape)
Bobby
Excellent information about Bakelite...Thanks
CharlieLed,
Awesome stuff! I tried to give you some reps but I guess I have to spread it around a bit more first. The silicon putty is a great idea.
FTE is a great place. I learn something every time I log on (now if I could just remember any of this stuff I'd be in great shape)
Bobby
#19
Here is one of many silicone putties available EasyMold® Silicone Putty The putty has a consistency of soft bubble gum and needs no support to hold it in place. On a steering wheel rim I would mold the putty around the rim and then make a cut in it when it has cured (20 mins) to remove it. When using it on a repaired area all that you need to do is prep the damaged area, apply your repair epoxy to fill the void, and then place the silicone mold over the repair to "mold" the epoxy to shape. At best you might need a strip of masking tape to hold the mold closed...this depends on how thick you made your mold. Nothing sticks to cured silicone so there is no need to prep your mold, it will peel right off the cured epoxy.
I am now so paranoid about anything silicon that I try not to even use the word in my shop much less bring it into the shop.
You must have had acceptable results and not gotten into a paint problem down the line. I went thru a living HXXX with a DOT 5 paint contamination several years ago.
#20
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