Hey guys, long time reader, first time seeking help. I couldn't find a situation quite like mine.

Background: 2006 6.0, 230k miles. Truck's compressor siezed up in July, preventing the belt from turning, therefore preventing the truck from starting. Went through all that, used the remove-the-fan, fan shroud, grounding strap method to swap the compressor. Buttoned everything back up. Both batteries were super dead. The truck was ran four times in loading it on a tow truck.

Current issue: Used my 04 excursion to give those batteries a bit of a charge, got three, 2 second turnovers last night before that charge was used up, decided to just get new batteries today. Put in the new batteries, tried to start it, and only got a single click out of the solenoid.

What's up? I checked the positive cable down to the solenoid and it seemed fine. It does run directly under the compressor. Is it a single wire or is there a connector in the line somewhere? Is it the solenoid? The two fuses and relay were fine. I beat it with a sledge, but honestly that was for my own stress relief.

Thank you for reading all that and for any help offered! I'm closer than I have ever been to just giving up and sending it off to a shop.

 

Sounds like it could be the solenoid. They're simple to swap out and it's good preventative maintenance to replace them. I don't know where yours is though. Get a quality motorcraft replacement, not a cheap knockoff, it matters.

 

Did you clean all of the connections with a battery terminal cleaner? These things are very inexpensive (under $5) and should be used every time a battery is disconnected.

 

I scrubbed the terminals and posts and still no luck. I guess I can replace the solenoid next. Would that be a possibility for it to go bad after a few turnovers then nothing the very next day with fresh batteries?

 

New batteries are NOT fully charged.. most might be 30 percent.. and HOW long were they sitting on shelf's... factory/warehouse/shippers location/dealer... months.?


starter solenoid.
starter
battery connections bad at... battery/frame/starter/etc.
bad battery cable or cables.


a solenoid is basically a metal disc and a bolt head.. electric press on and spring return off... over time it burns..

 

They can fail immediately, or they can stick lightly over time and fail gradually. I mentioned getting quality because I've had brand new ones that fail out of the box.

Mine normally fail catastrophically, they'll stick and leave the starter spinning while the motor is running until it burns up.

 

Well both new batteries were at 100% so we can rule them out. I verified that the ground straps were reconnected properly after my compressor swap. Next I plan to do a continuity check of the positive line to the solenoid. Then I'll probably remove the starter and have it checked at a store.

As long as I'm hearing a click from the solenoid then i can rule out fuses and relays. Is there anything else seemingly unrelated that could cause this?

Again, thank you to those who have replied, each response has either helped me rule out a possibility, made me think critically about a certain aspect, or reinforced my path forward.

 

How do you know the batteries are at 100 percent..?

the little chargers that say that .. LIE.. badly.

not saying the batteries are not charged.. but HOW DO YOU REALLY KNOW?

without a true 100 amp load tester.. . everything else are gimmicks

yes, if solenoid clicks.. it has all that needed except main POWER or its contacts are bad.
remember a starter need 400 amps or more.. to turn over engine. 300 will not do it.

so batteries are not up to it.. OR.. something is preventing main power to starter.. or starter is bad.
retired auto mechanic.

 

Update: The starter was the culprit. I took it off and had it tested. Solenoid did its job, but the starter shaft would not extend. Threw a new one in and Felix fired right up. Thank you all for the help, this managed to get resolved just in time for my next deployment. Now I can ensure my wife has both Fords while I'm underway. What a load off my mind!

 

Also, any of you find yourself in Western Washington give a holler, I'll buy you a beer.

 

I grew up in 98036, when there used to be actual woods to play in. Now it's just solid housing developments.

 

Reid Paslay,
May I suggest when you have to purchase a battery, alternator and/or starter have the auto parts store test it before taking it home to install. It saves a lot of aggravation, time, and effort. Nunber of years ago on a Lincoln towncar, starter was bad, went to an auto parts store did not have them check it. My mistake starter did not work, took it back they tested no work pulled three others off the shelf they did not work when tested. Got my money back had to go to another auto parts store to get one that worked.

 

I will definitely do this in the future. In this case, I had the compressor fail, then the starter when I wrapped up replacing it, and the two previous batteries were also bad. Overall, just bad timing for all of these to come to a head! I really wanted to make absolutely sure that my compressor swap was not related to the starter issue.

 

Reid Paslay,
Unfortunately as one of the old sayings go when it rains it pours. I hope that you are finally able to use your truck as it was intended for. Take care

 

Beautiful country up there. I was a HT stationed up there while the ship I was on was going through overhaul. The ship was decommissioned and then scrapped a couple of years ago. I'm getting old.