I bought the conventional 12v system for my headlight switches.

It currently power HB/LB headlights, running lights, gauge cluster etc. I have the issue where the **** pulls out completely without engaging the lights. I have had this problem before, but bent some pieces back together to make it work.

However, it has happened again! I'm currently going to install a generic switch to get things going again, but would like an alternative to the pull switch (maybe a twist similar to the windshield wiper motor or even a modern dash mounted ****). I'd like to keep everything mounted in the dash looking stock, but I don't have a problem cutting a hole in the dash either.

Shoot me some ideas!

 

No expert here, but do you think the problem is with the switch or the pull out know? Both are replaceable. Did you use the 12v switch for 1956?

 

When the **** is in place does it seem like its all the way in?
The ***** on headlight switches are made to pull out. Look around on the body of the switch, if you can't see it, feel around. usually on the side opposite the connector there will be a little round metal **** with a spring under it. This is the release button for the headlight switch ****.
Normally to get the **** out you have to pull the **** out so that the headlights are on, then compress the little metal button thingy and pull the **** out. Sometimes, when putting the **** back in you can just push it in and it will re-engage. Other times you have to fiddle around with compressing the little button release doo-dad while pushing in the ****.


Good luck
Bobby

 

bobbytnm is correct. I always had the opposite problem. I think I still have a dent in my index finger from holding that little button in against the spring while trying in vain to get the shaft out.


B

 

I have a GM style switch with a nice billet end like this one. I think an ebay special for around $50


looks nice in the dash

 

I bought a new reproduction headlight switch and new reproduction **** & shaft for my '53 F100. The **** and shaft would come completely out about every fourth or fifth time that I pulled it. I called the vendor and asked for a replacement. I was told that this was an occasional problem. I was promptly sent a new switch and ****, and though I have not yet installed it, it appears that there is no problem with this new one. So, it looks like the **** and shaft pulling out is not an uncommon problem with these switches. IMHO, the factory switch (or a well-working repop) is the best switch for the job. My guess is that it is no more expensive or troublesome to install a replacement stock switch than it is to cobble together something from after-market or other vehicle parts.

 

Cole-Hersee always has something.
Cole Hersee-Cole Hersee - Push-Pull Headlamp Switch With Dimmer - 71016-BX-71016-BX

 

New **** and the switch has under six months of use. I may just see if they will replace it from the company i ordered.

 

I have the switch out of the dash. I've been holding on to the button trying to engage the switch. My problem is not getting the **** out, its getting it to stay in while I try to turn on the headlights. It currently just slips out and I haven't been able to get the **** to click back in. I've had this problem before, just hoping there was an easier solution than just monkeying with it for an hour only to have it happen again in a couple months.

 

These switches and ***** can be a pain!

 

Looks great! I'm hoping to find something similar but be able to use a stock **** on it. Maybe some modification would be in order. I have a couple of the 6v ***** laying around I may be able to make that work with.

 

May likely do that, its the second time it has happened. Same switch, first the second action of turning the headlights went out. So I wired all the headlights and running lights to the same pull. Now it went out again and I'd rather get a new switch, but paying $60 for a replacement isn't exactly ideal.

 

I'll look into this MixerMan! I know my headlights run on a 30 amp fuse form my electric box, but I'll check on the maximum of my headlights and see it that will work. Stock **** is also something id like to retain, but maybe some modification will suffice.

 

Thanks everyone for the feedback! currently I've installed a toggle switch just to get the lights working for the time being. I'll see if the vendor will replace it, if not I'll see what other options I have. This would be the 3rd headlight switch if I decide to buy another one...

 

I hear ya


Sometimes you have to have the right combination of when to push in the shaft and when to try and depress the little button. You would think that when you go and push the shaft back in it would automatically engage the little lock mechanism but that's not always the case and sometimes you have to jack with it