Ok so I was looking at my blend door actuator motor to see if it was working. Just took off the bottom vent cover, turned key on and moved the air mixture to see if the motor worked. (it didn't) Then I went to start the truck and all I get is the solenoid on the firewall click each time I turn the key. I put a meter on the opposite side of solenoid and I see 12v across the solenoid. I can't image i did anything while playing around by the blend door actuator motor. I guess I'm looking for confirmation that the next logical step is starter and starter solenoid. Is there anything else I could be missing? is there anything else in that circuit between the solenoid on the firewall and the starter? I also cleaned the battery terminals and the terminals down on the starter solenoid. I also tapped the starter a bunch and put a charger on battery and tried jumping the truck too. Everything else works.

 

It's just a coincidence.
If you see 12 volts on the starter side of the start relay when engaged, the starter is not pulling any current or you would see a much lower voltage.
Check out the cables and light wire for being broken or corroded.
Normally the starter must pull in it's own internal relay heavy contacts to close battery power to the motor at the same time engage the flywheel gear.
If you don't hear any of that action the start circuit is open.
Good luck.

 

Bluegrass, Thanks for the info. What do yo mean by light wire? and are you referring to the cables from the starter side of relay to the starter?

 

Yes, there is a light gage wire that operates the starter internal solenoid to close the heavy current lead through to the motor.
Good luck.

 

Little wire & big wire on the starter itself.

Check all the wires and connections.
It has been a bad year here for getting mouse'd.

 

OK, so here's what I found out today.

1. Battery at 12.2V
2. Cleaned terminals at battery, starter relay on firewall, and starter solenoid on starter.
3. + Battery wire to starter ohms out. A little resistance but that's the thickness of wire I'm sure.
4. - Ground wire from battery to frame ohm out good
5. Battery ground to ignition trigger (small connector on starter solenoid reads 11.61V when key is turned to start position. (that's with it connected to solenoid...Try to do that test by yourself with a meter, thankfully meter has a hold button on it !)
6. Battery connection at starter solenoid is 12.1V
7. If I jump the battery side of starter solenoid to the starter side of solenoid the starter turns.
8. If I apply 12V from battery to the ignition trigger on the starter solenoid I get nothing. (shouldn't the starter engage at this point?)

Bottom line, still not start no crank condition. Starter relay on firewall still just clunks. I'm thinking the starter solenoid could be the culprit. Please chime in and let me know your thoughts. Am I missing anything?

 

If I correctly read what you posted it sounds like the solenoid to me.

 

Change the start relay. They don't cost much.
Be sure you get the lead back on where they belong.
Good luck.

 

Just wanted to update everyone on the "won't start" issue. After a lot of testing with a meter, I ordered a new starter solenoid (the one mounted on the starter) and it solved the problem. I decided to keep the starter and just swap out the solenoid ($30). Hopefully being cheap doesn't come back to haunt me. Thank you to everyone who chimed in and offered suggestions. Now back to the blend door issue!

 

Seems like the whole starter refurbish kit is around $30 from here:
https://alternatorstarterrebuildkits.com/

I have bought other stuff from them and they are great to deal with. My little car came with a 95 Amp small case 3G alternator and with their parts it is now 160 Amp with all new parts inside for under $100. I could instantly tell the difference in how well the AC works around town now, much cooler. I guess the e-fan was drawing a lot of juice.

 

Wish I saw this before, Could have gotten more for my money. Oh well, next time ! Thanks for the info. Bottom line is it starts!! Thanks again