Headlight problem
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Headlight problem
I have a 93 f250 351 4x4 ..... The headlights will go out and come back on constantly while driving ..... I have replaced the headlight switch and the block that plugs into it but still have the same problem also it does not matter if its on dim or hi beam.....to my way of thinking it acts like a relay getting hot and opening and closing but i checked the relays in the power dist box under hood and none are for headlights .... Is there one somewhere else idk about.... Or any suggestions what to look for i am lost at this point... Thnks
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Each headlamp has a separate ground. If they both are flicking it is most likely on the supply side or common connector such as C202
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You can isolate exactly WHERE the offending voltage drop is actually occuring by performing the tests outlined here:
http://www.aa1car.com/library/voltage_drop_testing.htm
It's easy! Don't let those automotive electrons scare you too much. The battery can cause trouble, but just be careful. Take your ring and watch off, and don't short the posts.
All that's needed here is a voltmeter, nothing has to be disassembled or disconnected. Anything more than a couple few tenths of a single volt on either side of a circuit is considered excessive. Since electricity always takes the easiest route, by bridging our voltmeter across any two points in parallel while the circuit is under load, the voltage being lost will show up there as a positive number.
From just the battery post itself to the battery cable terminal, or, all the way from the post to the headlight terminal, and everything in between, each connection that drops voltage adds up. This resistance is cumulative of course, and is ultimately what roasts switches and causes breakers to trip. Let us know what you find.
http://www.aa1car.com/library/voltage_drop_testing.htm
It's easy! Don't let those automotive electrons scare you too much. The battery can cause trouble, but just be careful. Take your ring and watch off, and don't short the posts.
All that's needed here is a voltmeter, nothing has to be disassembled or disconnected. Anything more than a couple few tenths of a single volt on either side of a circuit is considered excessive. Since electricity always takes the easiest route, by bridging our voltmeter across any two points in parallel while the circuit is under load, the voltage being lost will show up there as a positive number.
From just the battery post itself to the battery cable terminal, or, all the way from the post to the headlight terminal, and everything in between, each connection that drops voltage adds up. This resistance is cumulative of course, and is ultimately what roasts switches and causes breakers to trip. Let us know what you find.
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