$3100 Quote to Repair - Please review
#16
I took my 2002 Excursion 7.3L w/ 180K miles into my local Ford dealer for an intermittent battery light. This has been a problem for several months but finally resulted in the truck not starting. Running voltage at the cigarette lighter was 13.2 - 13.5v.
Just a got a call from their service department and here is what they are telling me needs to be repaired (parts and labor):
alternator $640
bump stops front $275
bum stops rear $165
oil leak from intake tubes $430
engine air filter $49
shocks front $365 (rusted out)
rear shocks $310 (rusted out)
fuel filter $128
Additionally they said that my 'hubs are frozen' and if I lose my vacuum I will be unable to shift between 2WD and 4WD. Its currently working but if I wanted to fix this it would be $775.
Which of these line items stand out as being excessive in price?
What questions / requests should I be making?
Any other advice that you would recommend?
Sorry I'm completely incompetent!
Thanks in advance,
Beeper
Just a got a call from their service department and here is what they are telling me needs to be repaired (parts and labor):
alternator $640
bump stops front $275
bum stops rear $165
oil leak from intake tubes $430
engine air filter $49
shocks front $365 (rusted out)
rear shocks $310 (rusted out)
fuel filter $128
Additionally they said that my 'hubs are frozen' and if I lose my vacuum I will be unable to shift between 2WD and 4WD. Its currently working but if I wanted to fix this it would be $775.
Which of these line items stand out as being excessive in price?
What questions / requests should I be making?
Any other advice that you would recommend?
Sorry I'm completely incompetent!
Thanks in advance,
Beeper
#17
Typically somewhere in the 14.x to 15.x volt range is required depending on the state of battery charge outside temperature, accessory loads etc.
#18
The voltage indicated at the cigar lighter may not be an accurate measurement of the actual charge voltage (at the battery.) Assuming it is representative, way too low and would soon result in failure due to a discharged battery.
Typically somewhere in the 14.x to 15.x volt range is required depending on the state of battery charge outside temperature, accessory loads etc.
Typically somewhere in the 14.x to 15.x volt range is required depending on the state of battery charge outside temperature, accessory loads etc.
#19
The voltage indicated at the cigar lighter may not be an accurate measurement of the actual charge voltage (at the battery.) Assuming it is representative, way too low and would soon result in failure due to a discharged battery.
Typically somewhere in the 14.x to 15.x volt range is required depending on the state of battery charge outside temperature, accessory loads etc.
Typically somewhere in the 14.x to 15.x volt range is required depending on the state of battery charge outside temperature, accessory loads etc.
#20
Are you measuring at the battery posts? What are you using to measure? Accuracy is important when it comes to batteries.
Battery theory and technology was sussed out almost 100 years ago so there's no guess or by golly here. 13.2 volts is basically a "float" charge voltage there's no way it will replenish a start battery or keep up with vehicle and accessory demands. Remember the battery has only one main function - start the engine. It is the alternator's job to provide for the ignition and accessories. Many people are confused about the role of the battery and alternator, people who should know better.
Any battery needs to see about two (2) volts above and beyond the resting open circuit voltage (OCV) in order to approach a full charge at 70F and more, as the temperature goes down. This is because the internal resistance increases.
A maintenance free sealed battery is 100% charged at 12.8 volts so, in order to reach a full charge close to 15 volts is required. Batteries "like" to be held at this voltage for a while as well. A slight overcharge above these figures tends to equalize the cells and is considered beneficial. It is possible to overcharge a battery but it takes real dedication.
Chronically undercharged batts will start the engine, they just typically crap out after a couple years and probably roast the alternator and other components. Vibration and heat play a role, but in comparison stationary batteries kept in a good state of charge can last 20 years or more.
Battery theory and technology was sussed out almost 100 years ago so there's no guess or by golly here. 13.2 volts is basically a "float" charge voltage there's no way it will replenish a start battery or keep up with vehicle and accessory demands. Remember the battery has only one main function - start the engine. It is the alternator's job to provide for the ignition and accessories. Many people are confused about the role of the battery and alternator, people who should know better.
Any battery needs to see about two (2) volts above and beyond the resting open circuit voltage (OCV) in order to approach a full charge at 70F and more, as the temperature goes down. This is because the internal resistance increases.
A maintenance free sealed battery is 100% charged at 12.8 volts so, in order to reach a full charge close to 15 volts is required. Batteries "like" to be held at this voltage for a while as well. A slight overcharge above these figures tends to equalize the cells and is considered beneficial. It is possible to overcharge a battery but it takes real dedication.
Chronically undercharged batts will start the engine, they just typically crap out after a couple years and probably roast the alternator and other components. Vibration and heat play a role, but in comparison stationary batteries kept in a good state of charge can last 20 years or more.
#21
The important thing to always keep in mind when dealing with batteries and charging is to first get ACCURATE numbers to work with, this means measured at the battery posts, or compensated/adjusted figures at least.
A tenth or two of a volt either way doesn't sound like very much but it really is. Further, it also needs to be adjusted or compensated for temperature.
Next is to get all of the charging capability you paid for. Even barely measurable amounts of ohms resistance in the high amperage charging circuit will cripple any alternator!
You can test for this quickly and easily using a voltmeter without disconnecting anything.
http://www.aa1car.com/library/voltage_drop_testing.htm
"It doesn't take much of an increase in resistance to cause trouble. Let's say a 120 amp alternator operates in a circuit that has a normal resistance of 0.11 ohms. If that resistance were increased to 0.17 ohms because of a bad wiring connection, the alternator's maximum output would be limited to 80 amps. In other words, an increase of only 0.06 ohms (almost nothing!) would reduce the alternator's maximum output by almost a third! Under light load, the drop in charging output might not even be noticeable. But in a high load situation, the alternator wouldn't be able to keep up."
#22
#25
#26
If you have a reputable local auto electrical shop, I would suggest you take your alternator in to have rebuilt. Most of the big box store alternators are imported production line rebuilds. You stand a better chance of getting higher quality internals from a rebuilder. A couple years ago on a trip to Yellowstone our alternator failed and I wound up having to buy one from O'Reilly's to get our family back on the road. What killed me was giving up the dead Motorcraft stamped core. Given the time and situation, I would've greatly preferred to have that one rebuilt. The one I got has been working fine, but I don't have as much faith in imported parts as I do domestic.
#27
#28
- under the truck or on a step ladder while leaning over the fender?
- with hand tools like socket sets and allen wrenches?
- with getting your hands/clothes dirty?
- with getting directions from a forum to perform a task in the truck?
I know people who would never pick up a screwdriver, let alone a torque wrench. I also know people who have their own shop and enjoy wrenching on the weekends. Most of us are somewhere in the middle - I'd guess more like mechanically inclined, but we'd rather drive than wrench.
#30