I was looking at installing a 200 Amp Battery Isolator ,(Battery-Related Products | Battery Isolators | 3-Stud Battery Isolators48160 | Cole Hersee - Littelfuse) to provide power to charge batteries in RV trailer behind truck.

I was going to drop #2 size wire from isolator to rear bumper and have anderson powerpoint connector with cable from RV battery bank. That way the batteries get a good higher amp charge when traveling..

I do realize the 7 pin plug provided power to trailer for battery charging but the wire is like a 12ga or so and the amount of power due to length, and small size of wire is LOW.. I have read where guy traveled for 3-5 hrs and batteries still not fully charged..

My question was: one of the things mentioned in the description was this isolator that it was for alternators without internal voltage regulators. I thought most alternators had internal voltage regulators unlike the old days when it was separate.

Can i use this product on my 02 7.3 with OEM 120amp? alternator??

thanks

 

Our alternators do have internal regulators. I'm not sure why it matters, though. I'd be interested to know, if you find out.

 

My first question would be, "how low was that battery to start with?" There is not doubt that a larger wire will pass more amperes that that 12 Ga but I have found that it takes hours to recharge my car batteries after a complete discharge from something like the lights being left on. And I'd like to know if having something like a #2 would make a difference. I always thought that the large wires for for heavy usage like running a starter.

 

you are correct.. the larger the wire the more current can flow through it like needed when starting a big diesel engine. same with wires moving amps to charge a deep cycle battery.

If the battery 2- 200aH 6 volt golf cart battery in parallel to provide 12 volts needs to get 14.8 volts at 30-40 amps for a while and the voltage and amps would be reduced over time.

With the 12-14 ga wire coming from somewhere to the trailer 7 pin plug the voltages and amps are lower not allow the battery to get a good charge. the larger wire allow more voltage and amp to flow helping to charge the batteries faster and fuller.

all this is being done by the onboard charge controller which is a 3 stage "smart" controller to keep the batteries in good shape.

not sure if I need a 10 or 8 ga wire to make the difference. I need to check the length of wire needed and check the chart.

http://assets.bluesea.com/files/reso...on_chartlg.jpg

on the chart at length of 40 ft moving 40 amps you need a 2 awg wire to be in the 3% voltage drop range.

It not me it facts here..

 

For bigger amps or power, I've always run a separate wire with a separate plug to the rear.

Something along the lines of these battery cable connectors https://www.grainger.com/category/fl...ts_optout=true

You can also rig up a plug for jumper cables on the front end using the heavier duty connectors.

 

"4" stage (with equalization) is even better for deep cycle batteries like golf cart batteries.

 

That exactly what I was looking at the anderson power point connectors. In looking at a chart for boats with 3% voltage drop I see for 25-30 ft at 20-25 amps a 6 awg wire will work. That is probably what I will use.

Now should I go with the battery isolator or not worry about that. I was going to hook up directly to charge controller.

Here is something i found that might be a better way to go.

https://alternatorparts.com/quicktif...rectifier.html

the box could be mounted in rear of truck bed (i have a camper type shell) and then run wires to batteries on RV ?? not sure how this would work specifically and would it need a large wire from truck batteries to work properly or from batteries in RV to positive and neg on rectifier??

 

[QUOTE=carl2591;16067234
the box could be mounted in rear of truck bed (i have a camper type shell) and then run wires to batteries on RV ?? not sure how this would work specifically and would it need a large wire from truck batteries to work properly or from batteries in RV to positive and neg on rectifier??[/QUOTE]

For the heavy duty plug, just run a larger wire from the positive terminal on the battery to the back of the truck. You can tap the ground off the frame. For the trailer, do the same. Positive to the battery and ground to the frame. Make sure that your existing grounds on both truck and trailer are in good shape and add additional grounds as necessary.

The size of the wire and the capacity of the connector is what determines how many amps flow through the setup.

 

For the heavy duty plug, just run a larger wire from the positive terminal on the battery to the back of the truck. You can tap the ground off the frame. For the trailer, do the same. Positive to the battery and ground to the frame. Make sure that your existing grounds on both truck and trailer are in good shape and add additional grounds as necessary.

The size of the wire and the capacity of the connector is what determines how many amps flow through the setup.