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So, yesterday I had a few hours and said to myself: "Self, why don't you take an hour and throw on those replacement front fenders?" That seemed like a good idea...
I'll give you guys a few minutes to stop laughing... once you regain composure continue reading...
THREE and a half hours later I finally had one done. The last one down inside the door opening, the clip broke and the bolt had to be dremel-wheeled off. Some observations:
- There have to be about twenty nuts and screws between the mounting points, inner fenders, hidden spots... You could probably mount a tow point on the fender and pull the truck...
- I don't see how any junkyard dudes, crawling in mud and in the heat, could pull one of these without screaming and attacking it with a sawzall...
Here's my real question: The replacement fender sits about 1/8th to 1/16th inch low, but the lower mounting points are all in place and up tight. It seems like it's as high as it can go. You can notice it at the hood / cowl line, and on the body line that runs into the door. How do you adjust this? Perhaps loosen the lower bolts and shim at the top two mounting bolts, ahead of the cowl, forcing it upwards a bit more? Maybe it's just because this part is from durkistan / Indonesia but hoping I can get the body line to mesh well.
Hoping some of you body guys have some thoughts - thanks!
The aftermarket replica fenders are not only of thinner metal but also have the issues you've found (although so will the factory stuff to some extent).
In any event, yes, shim the top; the factory used shims that were approximately the width of tongue depressors and made out of a wooden-like, fiber-like material but that didn't rot or disintegrate with water.
You may end up adapting some of the hold-down points to get bolt holes to line up; let alignment with the body panels be your guide, modify the hold-down tabs and mounting points as necessary.
The aftermarket replica fenders are not only of thinner metal but also have the issues you've found (although so will the factory stuff to some extent).
In any event, yes, shim the top; the factory used shims that were approximately the width of tongue depressors and made out of a wooden-like, fiber-like material but that didn't rot or disintegrate with water.
You may end up adapting some of the hold-down points to get bolt holes to line up; let alignment with the body panels be your guide, modify the hold-down tabs and mounting points as necessary.
Yep as said here.
And here I thought the wood shims I pulled off my truck was some crap a PO used to shim the top of the fender up. Now I go to go find them as I may need them!
On older GM cars & trucks they used what looked like front end alignment shims. They come in different thickness to get the fenders to line up.
After market fenders & doors where the worst back in the day so would try and get factory or used from junk yard. Today is even worst with aftermarket and nothing in junk yards for or trucks....too old!
Dave ----
When I did a rocker panel replacement for my 76 Bronco, "The best fit" one I got from reputable bronco parts shop, Well "did not fit"
Once installed the joint to the body was crooked and compressed.
After do some measuring, I found that the manufacturer must have:
Taken an original one and measured the length (of outside diameter)
Now these morons made the new dies using that measurement and NOT subtracting the thickness of the sheet metal, ( twice, once for left side of die, once more for the right side of the die.)
I took out the "replacement" and found overall length was longer that the original by guess how much?... it was longer than the original buy the sheet metal thickness times two!
Had to cut the new panel in half vertically, shorten by double the thickness and weld up.
Funny, it popped right in..... Just a hell of a lot of work, swearing, welding, and cosmetic skim coat, that should have taken an hour....
Good advice all - I noticed the factory shim was still in place but like Dave said I didn't realize it was factory! Still there after 30 years.
I'll loosen it all up, and like you guys said will start with the body line and redrill as needed. I just have to stretch it a bit
Originally Posted by reamer
You may have a Crappy Import fender with no adjustment possible, Unless it is a "Ford" fender, all bets are off, where did you get it? what brand?
I bought these in a "lot" with some other parts, not sure of the manufacture. At least it's probably recycled American steel, taken from a jungle someplace. There is likely some old Huey helicopter metal in there...
I replaced my front fenders with aftermarket ones made in Taiwan and sourced locally. I found most fit issues related to alignment with the hood and headlight bezels. I also discovered the driver's side fender didn't match the passenger side one. The small bevel above the headlight that carries over across the front of the hood was badly formed. About a month ago I came upon an '82 F250 in a parking lot with good fenders so I went over and took a look and... this truck had the same ill-fitting fender as mine. I hope to rework that fender this summer.
There is a local wrecking yard near me, and when driving by (on the way to Walmart), i noticed an 80's F series truck sitting outside. I stopped to look at it (a Rebel Flag painted hood, whatever). Behold !....it's a bone stock 84 302 4x4 long bed with over sized tires. After talking to the yard owner, he said it was a running truck with a broken frame. Stock engine...damn. We went out to the truck and sure enough, it started right up and we took it for a short drive. $300.00 later....it's in my driveway. Much to My Wife's dismay
01-17-2016, 07:51 AM
