1961 - 1966 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Slick Sixties Ford Truck

Fender Fittin'

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  #1  
Old 04-17-2004, 09:29 PM
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Fender Fittin'

The front fenders on my 65 F250 are sitting a little on the low side with the gap on the pass side under the cowl box being approx a 1/2" and we're looking at a 3/8" opening on the drivers side too. Realizing we've got the "leg bone connected to the ..." thing with the inner fender connected to the rad support, am I gonna have to tear it right down to the frame to get these fenders up where they need to be?

The rubber under the rad support looks OK BTW. A little bit squished on the passenger side which could be a clue, but both are intact.

How tight under the cowl box should the fenders be anyway? Judging by where the body curve will line up correctly I'd guess a quarter inch or so. I'd like 'em tighter than that, but that's just me and my own particular form of insanity.

Thanks for any responses.
 
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Old 04-17-2004, 10:42 PM
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Not an authority, recently put 65 back together after totally dismantling. Getting doors and fenders aligned can be labor intensive. Barnewlys law, what you do at one point impacts, or has an adverse affect on the other. Not sure of the specific measurement, believe there is only about 1/8" plus minus fraction gap between the door and fender.

Sounds like both fenders are setting low at the front. If you have not done anything to the truck like change cab mounts and doors appear aligned, for example, suggest loosening the 2 radiator support bolts and with a floor jack, or something simular, lift slightly to see if there is any correction. Don't believe you will get any adjustment w/out loosening the radiator supports but may want to try. Don't force it. If none, lower jack, loosen 2 rear fender bolts and try again. Be aware of the gap between door and fender, don't want to open door and take off any paint.

The rear fenders mounts have elongated slots of approx. 1/2" up and down adjustment. Probably will have to loosen the front and rear bolts before there is any movement. Don't recall whether you can see the elongated slot from the access panel inside the cab or from underneath, but if possible check to see if room to adjust in correct direction.

Not sure if any of this makes any sense. Am certain more knowledgeable members will be responding to provide additional information and suggestions.

Good luck,
dave
 

Last edited by daveengelson; 04-17-2004 at 11:35 PM.
  #3  
Old 04-18-2004, 08:28 PM
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pntrbl,

FWIW, what you are referring to as "gaps" are actually considered margins. There is not actually a specific dimension for them but there is a specific technique to use when aligning them. start by establishing continuity in hieght by using a horizontal reference line. Of course this required the body mount insulators and body mounts to be in good shape. It they are collapsed, or body is sagged or cocked on it's mounts no amount of adjusting will correct the misfit. I get the back fender top, to cowl bottom margin to be as close to the same dimension/ size as my hood to fender margins are.

I use a body line myself. I get the bottoms to align as best I can, then I snug a bolt to hold it in position. Next I jack the tops into place by prying off a mount or jacking point [so I don't wrinkle sheet metal]> it's easier to pry or jack stuff up than pull, push or draw it in any other direction.

Object is to end up with margins parallel and even, as well as about same width all around a vehicle. It doesn't matter if they are 3/16, or 1/4 or 5/16 of an inch as long as all are more or less same and look even. Also horizontal and vertical margins should be relatively the same size and appearance.

If you start at bottoms, as I do, and get mid point or at top, in the vertical, and discover tops don't match, it's better to lower bottom of a part which is high. Being slightly out of alignment is less noticeable the lower it is, and it's more noticable the closer it gets to eye level. Work to the point of eye level.

You can use select fit body shims, spacers, flat washers etc to adjust your margins. Yes it is a time consuming deal, and like Dave said the law of inverse reaction can apply to the operation sometimes. . .but it's the same as arranging folding chairs in a meeting Hall or installing shutters, or cabinets. What you need to work towards is the fit & finish features, how it appears when it's done. The better things seems to fit, the better it will look. . .

I'll tell you what, if you understand the operations, and learn to do it well and fairly fast, it's a great money maker because a lot of folks just can't get the hang of fit & finishing Automotive body & trim works. I might be picky, but to me I think one of the most distracting things about any vehicle is when things do not fit right, when with a touch of skill, some understanding, and an investment in time they may well could.

FBp
 

Last edited by FordBoypete; 04-18-2004 at 08:38 PM.
  #4  
Old 04-19-2004, 07:21 PM
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Man body panel alignment is a pain....glad we have straight lines to deal with aside from top half of door to cab....
As to fenders....I did my 65 several years ago....using the rocker panel as a straightedge, I lined up bottom of fender with it....eyeball it usually, and make sure door/fender gap is good and should net a fair gap at fender to cowl....I have seen some that are so far off its hillarious...but the holes are slotted at the rear as noted above....a word to the wise....whenm reinstalling the fender, especially the 2 rear ones, I changed the factory spotwelded nutcage clip to the one piece type used on the 70 or so up....also, on the bottom bolt, be sure its not too long as if it is, you can created a n outtie dent.....

Hope This Helps camperspecial65
 
  #5  
Old 04-21-2004, 09:25 PM
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Thanks for the responses and the good advice you guys. I've got the front clip completely off now and new core support mounts on order but I do believe the rear slots on the inner fenders were way low. Hard to tell because someone completely tarred the firewall! Working on cleaning that up now.

I get a little crazy about body gaps but it do make a difference in the finished product.
 
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Old 04-22-2004, 06:12 AM
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Pntrbl, Glad to see you are still at it! I'd start with a set of new cab cushions and be sure the cab supports are solid. After that use the excellent advice provided. Jacking from the bottom up is excellent!!! A little fender sealant helps things slide into place as well.
 
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Old 04-22-2004, 08:50 PM
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Oh Yeah, I'm still at it. This truck has become something of an obsession. I was tellin' one of my painters how it's kind of taken over my life which caused him to look at me in amazement and reply, "What life?"

In my spare time it's about all I do.
 




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