7.3 engine build advice
#1
7.3 engine build advice
I'm currently in the process of stripping down the 7.3 block and heads to be sent to the machine shop to me decked surfaced and vatted
I'm shooting for a 550hp to 600 hp engine. I'll be adding
Stage 2 injectors
Arp head studs
Melling lpop
Aftermarket hpop
Regulated fuel return
Built stock turbo (360 bearings, 1.00 ar housing, ported intake housing, wheel, adjustable waste gate.)
EBPV delete
Non EBPV petistol
High flow turbo outlet
Intake heater delete
6.0 trans cooler
And tuning will be done by DP tuner
I'll also he reusing the stock forges rods.
My question would be what other parts would be nessasary or recommended and what other advice you might have for this build?
I'm shooting for a 550hp to 600 hp engine. I'll be adding
Stage 2 injectors
Arp head studs
Melling lpop
Aftermarket hpop
Regulated fuel return
Built stock turbo (360 bearings, 1.00 ar housing, ported intake housing, wheel, adjustable waste gate.)
EBPV delete
Non EBPV petistol
High flow turbo outlet
Intake heater delete
6.0 trans cooler
And tuning will be done by DP tuner
I'll also he reusing the stock forges rods.
My question would be what other parts would be nessasary or recommended and what other advice you might have for this build?
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Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Staten Island,hamilton ny
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#10
#11
'Stage 2' injectors and a stock-type turbo will not get you to 500hp.
There are much better tuners out there and far better places to get advice for this type of build.
Some things to consider for your build. 'Cut' and coated pistons. We machine the protruding lip off the piston bowl, then have the piston tops ceramic coated and the skirts teflon coated. If the block decks have to be machined, also have the pistons cut down. Never compromise with oversized gaskets. You'll need to install the pistons and measure protrusion to do this. I'll think of more later...
I might look at the KC38R turbo as a drop-in option up to 500hp. This rebuildable BB turbo and a set of dorman up-pipes are several $100 cheaper than a T4 kit and you can always sell it if ya do want to go bigger in the future.
An automatic transmission will need some love at anything over about 300hp. If you want some assurance that the next boosted launch won't land you on the back of a tow truck - get a BTS (or JW's) transmission. You can throw a valve body in your tired old tranny or have some local shop add some extra clutches and a 'shift kit' (Transgo Tugger kit) - but your chances of not driving home one day are still pretty high.
I am building a +500hp 6spd work truck (F450) right now. It will get hybrid injectors (at least 250/100's, but we might use B-code springs (higher VOP) and go as big as 300/200's.... ). Planning on using cryo'ed forged rods, head studs, 910 valve springs, chromoly pushrods, Adrenaline HPOP, T4/S369sxe with wastegate, ported and polished heads, Stage 1 cam, stock all-alum CAC, Southbend dual-disk street clutch and powder coat/paint everything. It will have a STOCK fuel system except for in-tank mods and Racor PS120 pre-pump filter. Tuning will be by Gearhead. The S369sxe will limit peak HP, but we are looking for something that lights the turbo down low for the 6spd so we can have lots of power and no smoke.
Also, gauges are kinda standard for this level of build. For me that means at least fuel pressure, EGT and boost. I like the Aeroforce Scangauge in the 4rth position because it allows you to monitor ICP, IPR Duty Cycle and any other parameter the PCM uses. It also does Buzz Test and CCT.
#12
#14
If you are keeping the stock turbo, do the EBPV delete on your pedestal and turbo outlet for $0.50. Replacing the pedestal and outlet is a waste of money... Do away with the Wastegate too, no need for this either. You'll be abusing this turbo no matter what - so just save the money for a better charger. If I was doing a budget build, I'd run a van turbo with high-flow outlet and aftermarket comp wheel. This combo flows almost as much air as 38R and the 1.15 AR ex housing keeps drive pressure in check better than 1.0 or stock .84 housing in factory turbo.
No matter what, you'll want new up-pipes. I've been using Dorman bellowed up-pipes the last couple of years. Good quality, lifetime warranty and under $200 (as low as $150).
The KC38R would probably be a good drop in option and can reportedly handle 500hp.
#15