For thoses that want to upgrade their turnsignal/brake/parklight bulbs I have something important to tell everyone.


the bulb in question is a 1157 bulb, if you can get an 1154 bulb, its identical to a 1157 bulb but the park light element is as bright as a 1157 bulb brake light element. The brake light element on the 1154 bulb is even brighter.


I found this out as at work our supplier gave us 1154 bulbs instead of 1157 and I noticed the difference and thought I had an electrical wiring problem but come to find out it was a 1154 bulb which I never heard of till now.


So a heads up to thoses that want brighter tail and turn signals grab up some 1154 bulbs.

 

1154 is a SIX VOLT bulb...
How long do you think it's going to last?

How does this affect blink speed for those who still have thermal flashers as the wattage has to be in excess of a conventional 1157.

Will the increased draw and heat make the sockets or wiring melt like often happens with other bulbs.

Why do you feel that your taillights aren't bright enough?
Are you rearended often?

 

If it is just like the stock 1157 incandescent bulbs but brighter then it will also run hotter and here is the BIG ONE pull more amps!
LED’s do not run hot(er) and don’t pull more amps. This is a good thing and why you would want to use them.


Now they do have some down side to them. Because they do not pull enough amps the turn signals may not work (blink) like they should with out a change to the flasher or in older days add a resister so it pulls more amps to make the flasher work.
The other thing if used in the dash they do not dim they go on or off. The bulbs also have a + & - side and if installed wrong they will not work. You also can not use an LED bulb in place of the ALT light. The ALT light bulb and system is made for the amount of draw that ALTbulb pulls so the charging system may not work. How do I know this you ask? I replace all my dash bulbs on my 70 AMC Javelin with LED’s and bench tested before I installed it back in the car. Then went Speed Hut Gauges, Custom Gauges, Tachometers, Speedometers, Shift Light, Pod custom gauges. Outside lights will be LED’s too when I get the car finished.


Great now you got me thinking of replacing the dash lightson my F100!
Dave ----

 

Dave, The instrument cluster has a 500 ohm resistor in parallel to the charge indicator bulb so the alternator will still charge if the bulb fails. (or you insert an LED in its place)

I used to use the 6V 1154 bulbs on my '67 Ducati motorcycle.
It will fit an 1157 socket but it won't last long at twice the voltage.

 

.
Is there a standard incandescent bulb that fits an 1157 socket that draws less amps than a 1157 bulb?

(I realize it would burn less brightly, but I have an issue with a melting socket on another vehicle)
.

 

Mookie, Go to LED'S all around and get an electronic flasher.
*All* your wiring will be grateful.
All your bulbs will be brighter and need less-or-no replacement.

 

I upgraded to a higher amperage alternator and replaced "most" of the bulbs with brass based new ones. Cleaning out the sockets and dielectric grease made a huge improvement overall.

 

Still doesn't take the load off the headlight switch and dash wiring that is so prone to meltdown...

 

Well then I need to double check I could have sworn he socket said 1154 12v. If they are 6v then that's why they are so much brighter. It also makes me question why our supplier sent 1154 bulbs over 1157 bulbs when I told the salesman that stopped by we needed 1157 bulbs.


They wont last long at 12v though. I didn't even know about that because didn't stop to think about 6v bulbs it didn't even cross my mind.

 

As far as me I have been using oem bulbs on the exterior. Ive used a 80w projector 1157 LED bulbs in my turnsignals up front on my Mercury. Even the pure white 1156 bulbs I used in my cornering lights are super bright. Down side is if you have a oem flasher they wont work you have to atleast switch to a variable load flasher which is pretty much all flashers you get from the auto part store shelves. I have a heavy duty yellow variable load flasher in my mercury and the LED turnsignal bulbs work just fine.

 

^^ X2 what he said ^^
LED bulbs is the only way I know of to lower the amp draw / heat.


Good catch on the 6v 1154 bulbs - yep will be bright for a short time
Dave ----

 

I wholesale replaced my wiring harness, swapped one for idiot lights with one for gauges. Took the opportunity to clean ALL the connectors everywhere; my ammeter works just fine, lights are bright, no melting wires and life is happy.

The resistor that allows the charging system to operate should the BATTERY (or ALT or whatever) idiot light burn out (the thing labeled Conductor thingamabob):

 

I put LED bulbs in my '76 dashboard and they dim fine for me...?

BigBore44

 

There are plenty of dimmable wedge base bulbs available for instruments...

Additionally, Ford was wise enough to put a 500 ohm resistor across the charge light circuit, so it will still charge even with the bulb blown (or an LED)

I think people on this forum are so used to '80's technology they have no idea how far things like light emitting diodes have come in THIRTY YEARS.

I use an electronic flasher and set the rate I like.
I SURE don't miss the clicking.

 

They have, back in the 90s the best we had was those cheapie auto zone LED bulbs that only fired forward and created hotspots on your lenses. Now we have 360* firing bulbs and even ones with projector lenses.