No Charge
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#8
well then, with a new alternator and new battery, and the battery not charging
with the truck running:
what's the voltage at the alternator (should be 13+)
what's the voltage at the battery (also should be 13+)
If voltage at alternator less, then likely alternator is bad, or has wrong pulley, or pulley is slipping on belt (so it's not being driven fast enough)
If voltage at battery is 13+, then it's either charging or battery is bad
If voltage at battery is less, then you need to check ground and power connections at both alternator and battery, as well as power and ground connections between the two
with the truck running:
what's the voltage at the alternator (should be 13+)
what's the voltage at the battery (also should be 13+)
If voltage at alternator less, then likely alternator is bad, or has wrong pulley, or pulley is slipping on belt (so it's not being driven fast enough)
If voltage at battery is 13+, then it's either charging or battery is bad
If voltage at battery is less, then you need to check ground and power connections at both alternator and battery, as well as power and ground connections between the two
#9
#11
There are experts here in troubleshooting this system, but we all rely on YOU PROVIDING RELEVANT INFORMATION.
If you are too stubborn to provide that information, it's your choice and you are, indeed, on your own. I am not being harsh, I'm telling you how it works.
Your choice.
#12
I replaced both cable ends and they are tight I didn't try reving the truck to see if the voltage went up but I need to know about the 3 wire and the single wire could the problem be in one of those two since the voltage regulator is showin failed and Mr project since you like usein big word names to call people maybe I'm too simple in my word use or i might need to s l o w d o w n m y
t y p i n g
t y p i n g
#13
Okay, here is what is needed to actually assist you instead of your continually repeating yourself with useless information.
You must take DC voltage readings of ALL of the following with the engine running. Report the results.
Use the battery negative ground post as meter return (black lead).
1. Battery positive post.
2. Each of the three wires of the three wire connector. Back-probe each wire. Report each voltage reading and include the wire color code.
3. Does the cluster battery light come on when the key is first turned from OFF to RUN (before starting)? Does it go off or stay on after the engine is running?
This is a fairly simple circuit but it does require you to pay attention to details so as to avoid useless and unproductive maintenance actions. based on your explicit results of those tests, I (or someone else) can more accurately guide you.
Please stick to the subject at hand, it's far more productive in the long run.
You must take DC voltage readings of ALL of the following with the engine running. Report the results.
Use the battery negative ground post as meter return (black lead).
1. Battery positive post.
2. Each of the three wires of the three wire connector. Back-probe each wire. Report each voltage reading and include the wire color code.
3. Does the cluster battery light come on when the key is first turned from OFF to RUN (before starting)? Does it go off or stay on after the engine is running?
This is a fairly simple circuit but it does require you to pay attention to details so as to avoid useless and unproductive maintenance actions. based on your explicit results of those tests, I (or someone else) can more accurately guide you.
Please stick to the subject at hand, it's far more productive in the long run.
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rangercld
1983 - 2012 Ranger & B-Series
8
10-21-2004 12:14 PM