98 F-150 sc 4x4 5.4
New alternator and battery the alt isn't charging could the solenoid on the firewall cause this problem

 

No. The starter relay is only for the starter. The solenoid is on the starter itself.

Check the fuse mounted right next to the megafuse.

Check the light bulb in the cluster for the charging system, while you're at it.

 

I've checked all fuses got another alt and its still the same when they test the alt on the truck is said voltage regulator is bad the alt was tested before I put it on what else can I look at

 

When someone says they checked all fuses", I can guarantee they didn't, even if they think they did.

Did you check the SPECIFIC fuse I told you to? It is NOT in any of the fuse boxes.

Have you done any real diagnostics with a meter to measure what is happening in the circuit?

 

Yes I've CHECKED ALL OF THEM I even replaced the 175 just for gp I've probed both the single wire and the three wire connectors with a test light I'm going to replace the three wire end tommorro

 

Okay, so you probed and made measurements. It doesn't help us a bit to help you if you do not relay that data in a logical, concise manner. We are not psychic.

 

Well I guess I'll figure it out on my own since I'm not going to get any real help

 

well then, with a new alternator and new battery, and the battery not charging

with the truck running:

what's the voltage at the alternator (should be 13+)
what's the voltage at the battery (also should be 13+)

If voltage at alternator less, then likely alternator is bad, or has wrong pulley, or pulley is slipping on belt (so it's not being driven fast enough)

If voltage at battery is 13+, then it's either charging or battery is bad

If voltage at battery is less, then you need to check ground and power connections at both alternator and battery, as well as power and ground connections between the two

 

At the battery truck running its 12.5 the alt was bench tested before it was put on the tester show the voltage regulator was bad could the problem be in the single wire connection or the three wire

 

does the voltage at the battery go up if you speed up the motor?

and you've double-checked that both connections are the battery are good and tight

 

You're being completely obstinate about providing useful information, so we cannot do any thing other than guess, just like you have been. That obviously hasn't worked very well for you, has it?

There are experts here in troubleshooting this system, but we all rely on YOU PROVIDING RELEVANT INFORMATION.

If you are too stubborn to provide that information, it's your choice and you are, indeed, on your own. I am not being harsh, I'm telling you how it works.

Your choice.

 

I replaced both cable ends and they are tight I didn't try reving the truck to see if the voltage went up but I need to know about the 3 wire and the single wire could the problem be in one of those two since the voltage regulator is showin failed and Mr project since you like usein big word names to call people maybe I'm too simple in my word use or i might need to s l o w d o w n m y
t y p i n g

 

Okay, here is what is needed to actually assist you instead of your continually repeating yourself with useless information.

You must take DC voltage readings of ALL of the following with the engine running. Report the results.

Use the battery negative ground post as meter return (black lead).

1. Battery positive post.
2. Each of the three wires of the three wire connector. Back-probe each wire. Report each voltage reading and include the wire color code.
3. Does the cluster battery light come on when the key is first turned from OFF to RUN (before starting)? Does it go off or stay on after the engine is running?

This is a fairly simple circuit but it does require you to pay attention to details so as to avoid useless and unproductive maintenance actions. based on your explicit results of those tests, I (or someone else) can more accurately guide you.

Please stick to the subject at hand, it's far more productive in the long run.