I had posted earlier about carb issues I am having with 54 ford with original carb and 239 ohv engine. I had a carb I had bought a few yeas ago that was nearly new but as someone recommended to put a kit in it. Before I put a kit in it would bog down every time I tried to give it gas and I couldn't see any gas shooting in when I would rev it up. I put new kit in and I am seeing just a small amount of fuel coming out when I rev it and look into carb Also when I reassembled it before I put the top back on I worked the accelerator pump and just the spring and keeper on top would move down and not the rod. The rod would stay in a fixed position and just the spring would push down on the plunger. When I had it running I noticed if I held my hand real close to the carb (about an inch) and rev it up it would respond great but if I moved my hand it would bog down again. Is the whole plunger and rod suppose to do or what am I missing. Any help would be appreciated.

 

Putting your hand close is like pulling the choke. You richened it up like the accelerator "should" be doing when the throttle plate opens. To compensate for the sudden lean condition.

If we could see pics maybe we could help. Maybe it is put together incorrectly or incorrect parts? The plunger should pump fuel out the nozzles. The spring usually is to return it.

 

Your accelerator pump is not working correctly. I would first look at the following:
1 - Make sure the check valve ball and retainer are in the bottom of the pump well.
2 - Make sure you have the needle valve looking part under the discharge nozzle.
3 - Make sure you have the correct thickness gaskets under the discharge nozzle and spray bars. Once you have snugged down the hold down bars the nozzle and spray bars should all be tight. Most kits I have seen include two different thickness gaskets for these parts. You must use the same thickness for all five gaskets.

Please report back with your findings. We should be able to help you work thought this so you have a nice driving truck.

 

Did you remove the accelerator spray nozzle and clean it out, as suggested in the previous thread?

If you remove the operating rod, can you push the plunger down by hand? With no gas in the bowl, you should be able to move the plunger freely.

 

Yes I cleaned every passage and also blew them out. I will take it back off tomorrow and check the plunger.

 

When you say you, "blew them out", do you mean with compressed air?

 

That's the wrong attitude! Never give up! If there's a will, there's a way.

 

E all have been thru these type of problems on a build . NEVER , NEVER let the truck win !

 

Carbs are tricky lots of parts.....

I would download and print off the user manual of the carb you have and follow it to the t when rebuilding. Even watch a YouTube video if there is one.

Mike from mikes carbs has a video for the Holley 847 on the 226 and I watched it three times and downloaded the manual before I rebuilt mine.

Even after all that, I still had a flooding issue. Turns out I had the float needle in backwards! All of those parts you take out have to go back in just the right way! If you get frustrated or rush you will make critical mistakes. A carb or distributor rebuild are tedious tasks.

Study the diagrams and make sure you are not missing a critical piece like the check ball or check ball retainer and that your float needle is right and moving freely.

JB