Got a carb question for you guys. First, the vitals: 1965 F100, 352 2wd automatic, 2 bbl carb #
C5TF C
B50A

Sorry for the verbal description; I don't have a digital camera to take a pic of the part in question. Here's the problem (I think I know what'll solve it, I just don't know what to ask for): From the accelerator pump on the front of the carb there is a rod that runs on the outside of the carb to to the top of the fuel bowl. On the end of that rod is a little rubber stopper that covers a hole? vent? something in the top of the bowl. When I run the truck at fast idle, gas runs from under this stopper onto my manifold. Now, I'm no scientist, but I'm guessing that gas running on a hot engine is a bad thing.

So, I think the solution to my problem is to replace that little rubber stopper. The problem is that I don't know what to ask for when I go to the parts store. Having worked on the other side of the counter, someone saying, "Its the little rubber thingy on the end of this rod thingy on the front" wouldn't get anything solved. So, fellas, what do I ask for? Are they available aftermarket? Will this solve my problem?

 

That stopper is an early pollution control feature. Not sure it worked right, either.
Gas bubbling up means the level of gas in the bowl is not being controlled properly. You most likely have a bad float, or a bad needle and seat.
You could probably get away with replacing them only, but you might as well soak it and replace the old rubber and gaskets.
Get a carb rebuild kit, make sure it has the float with it, or get it separately if necessary. You may also want to get a new thick gasket separator between the carb and the manifold. The old one will probably tear when you remove the carb.
While you are at it, get a large can of carb or parts cleaner, the kind with a parts basket. Get it big enough to put the carb body into it.
Remove the carb, and dissasemble it. It really is rather easy. You don't have to take every screw and part off. Be sure to be very careful not to lose the little clips and parts. The kit comes with an exploded diagragm. You really only need to remove the following:

1. The top cover.
2. The float and needle and seat inside the bottom bowl half. (These will be replaced.) Note how there is a clip which fits over both the float and clips onto the seat.
3. The 2 brass jets in the bottom of the bowl; you will re-use these. Use a LARGE screwdriver to remove them, Be careful as they can strip.
4. There may be a center screw holding the venturies in place. When you remove this, be careful to note the steel ball, and/or the shaft which may fall out. They will fall out when you turn it upside down.
5. Remove the accelerator pump cover on the front; it is held in place by 4 screws, and has a center lever. (The pump diaphragm and center valve will be replaced as well.)
6. Remove the two spring loaded idle mixture screws on the bottom front. These will also be re-used. (Before you remove them, screw them in and count the number of turns until they bottom out. Record this to re-assemble them into the same holes, the same number of turns out. You'll make better adjustments later, but this will get you back close to what was working before you took it off.)
7. Remove the power valve (if equipped) on the underside of the front of the carb. This will also be replaced.

Don't remove the screws or the butterflies in the choke rod or the throttle rod in the bottom. Don't remove the external screws or throttle adjustment screws, it isn't necessary and you will have more trouble re-installing them than it is worth to take them off.

Soak the main parts over night, and then rinse them off. I like to rinse with gasoline, but that's not politically correct.
Then, re-assemble. The kit has instructions to properly set the needle and seat. The simple way to set it is to make sure the float is level when the carb is level. If you didn't make any other changes to the adjustments, you can simply re-assemble and go with it.

Keep in mind that they sell kits to cover a variety of applications, so you will have unused parts left over.

If I have forgotten anything, I am sure someone will kindly fill in the empty spots, but that really is about it.

Finally, this may be a really good time to buy a Haynes or Chilton's manual to learn more, if you don't have one already.

Good luck and keep us informed!

 

It's called a Float Bowl Vent valve. Ford number was C4TZ 9557-B. Not all the 2bbl carbs had them. I agree that your float is probably set to high or is bad. I checked the Ford illustrations and it's not shown, but I remember selling these long ago. It usually comes in an overhaul kit, (CT 499-D ) from Ford. Aftermarket kits should have it also.

Barry

 

So the aftermarket kit didn't have the float bowl vent valve; can I just temorarily block off the hole with a piece of tape until I can find a replacement valve? Or would it be better to leave it open?

Parts are soaking, and I hope to get it back together tomorrow night. Thanks for all the info guys.

 

Gas will eat away the glue on the tape. If you can't come up with the valve, I'd try to find a carb top that doesn't have the hole. You could eliminate that setup. Do you have a NAPA store nearby? Give them tha number I listed and see if they can cross it over. NAPA can usually get alot of parts for old trucks.

Barry

 

Wow, that carb goes back together pretty easily--hardly any parts in it. I'll keep ya posted on how it runs later this week.

 

Neal

I just rebuilt a Holley carb and believe that I might have one of those valves left over in the kit. I have some pics I can send you.

Let me know

jd

 

Neal I put a photo of the valve in my gallery

jd

 

Thanks, JD, but I got one today at NAPA for less than $2. Glad to have ya on my side, though.

 

It's alive!! Just got it installed tonite, cranked her over a few times, and viola, it started. I still need to do a bit of tweaking on the idle and mixture and such, but it's good to know that my $12 rebuild went as planned. Thanks for all the help, guys.

 

Good job Neal

It's near as hard as people say it is. I have rebuilt a lot of carbs myself and just assisted my 18 year old son in rebuilding a 2 barrel Motorcraft for a friend of his.

Where did you get a kit for $12.00 ? I just paid $25.00 for a kit on my Holley for my 352.

jd

 

O'Reilly Auto Parts, but that was at a discount. I work for a company that has a jobber account there, so I get their price. Helps to know people that work behind the counter.