1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

Aluminim heads for a flathead v8

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #1  
Old 12-04-2015, 08:13 PM
Skalywag's Avatar
Skalywag
Skalywag is offline
Elder User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Frankfort, Ohio
Posts: 508
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Aluminim heads for a flathead v8

Any idea what a set of used aluminum heads are worth in good condition? I have a lead on a set and would like to know if I'm getting a good deal He didn't give a price, just said he had a set.
 
  #2  
Old 12-04-2015, 08:24 PM
ALBUQ F-1's Avatar
ALBUQ F-1
ALBUQ F-1 is online now
Fleet Owner
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: NM
Posts: 26,802
Received 610 Likes on 379 Posts
That's real hard to say. Check the prices on new Edelbrocks for comparison, about $600 a pair most places. I'd say for nice ones, $300 - $400 a set at the top.

Usually used heads are not nearly as shiny as new, and may be corroded on the deck surface, making them hard to seal. They could be cracked, too.

You have to use new bolts or studs/nuts on many aluminum heads, because they are a different thickness than iron heads. I've never been clear on the Edelbrocks on 8BA's.

They are really just for show, most have no performance benefit compared to 8BA/EAB heads. Compared to 8RT heads there probably is a benefit, but shaving the 8RTs would accomplish the same thing.
 
  #3  
Old 12-04-2015, 08:33 PM
Skalywag's Avatar
Skalywag
Skalywag is offline
Elder User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Frankfort, Ohio
Posts: 508
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Thanks Ross, I was thinking about the same on the price. The heads should have a stamp on them as to compression, I hope to get a look at them tomorrow. I do like the bling.
 
  #4  
Old 12-04-2015, 10:25 PM
1950FordF1's Avatar
1950FordF1
1950FordF1 is offline
Senior User
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 456
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Proceed with caution and as Ross said inspect them carefully. I won't buy a head without taking a straight edge and feeler gauge unless the price reflects the risk I'm taking.. I agree on their minimal benefit if only the heads are changed. If you migrate over to the Ford Barn there are many posts regarding heads.

A friend running an 8ba with aluminum heads had an overheating problem. The culprit were the used name brand heads that had a fair amount of corrosion inside. They didn't look bad but there was enough turbulence created to raise havoc with the water flow. He went to a stock set of 8ba heads and solved the problem.
There are vintage heads that are worth some dough, but if they are used newer heads about 1/2 of retail is fair if they are in good bolt on condition. Polishing and milling could add a couple hundred bucks......
Regards, T.
 
  #5  
Old 12-05-2015, 04:53 PM
Skalywag's Avatar
Skalywag
Skalywag is offline
Elder User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Frankfort, Ohio
Posts: 508
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
The heads were already sold when I got there today. The guy said he got $425. for them. I thought that was high. So I went home with money in my pocket. that doesn't happen often.
 
  #6  
Old 12-05-2015, 05:29 PM
ALBUQ F-1's Avatar
ALBUQ F-1
ALBUQ F-1 is online now
Fleet Owner
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: NM
Posts: 26,802
Received 610 Likes on 379 Posts
What heads do you have now? Is your engine apart, on a stand? There is supposed to be a lot to be gained with iron heads if you "clay" the clearance between the pistons and the heads at TDC, and have them milled to create a "squish" zone ~.050" high. I believe "rreed" on here had it done. It makes them more responsive and allows leaner mixes for the same or greater HP. I got as far as clay'ing mine, decided against it for the time being, but am tempted to do it this winter.

Read about heads here: Aluminum head reality check. - The Ford Barn
 
  #7  
Old 12-05-2015, 06:21 PM
Skalywag's Avatar
Skalywag
Skalywag is offline
Elder User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Frankfort, Ohio
Posts: 508
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by ALBUQ F-1
What heads do you have now? Is your engine apart, on a stand? There is supposed to be a lot to be gained with iron heads if you "clay" the clearance between the pistons and the heads at TDC, and have them milled to create a "squish" zone ~.050" high. I believe "rreed" on here had it done. It makes them more responsive and allows leaner mixes for the same or greater HP. I got as far as clay'ing mine, decided against it for the time being, but am tempted to do it this winter.

Read about heads here: Aluminum head reality check. - The Ford Barn
Ross, I have my engine torn down and on a stand. I read the info on the Ford barn. I have 8BA heads and a spare EAB laying around. The posters on the Ford Barn seem to be about 50/50 pro and con on the aluminum heads. My original decision to go with aluminum heads was an easy one, now it is getting complicated. I obviously want the best bang for the buck, but I also like eye candy. No decisions made for now. More research needed. Thanks for all of your help.
 
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
tnnuke
Lightning, Harley-Davidson F-150, Roush F-150 & Saleen F-150
2
03-21-2009 07:31 PM
john fin
1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
5
03-10-2008 07:11 AM
ford390gashog
FE & FT Big Block V8 (332, 352, 360, 390, 406, 410, 427, 428)
3
08-23-2004 01:35 PM
mlentz460
Big Block V8 - 385 Series (6.1/370, 7.0/429, 7.5/460)
7
02-02-2004 08:48 AM



Quick Reply: Aluminim heads for a flathead v8



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 10:54 PM.