Aluminim heads for a flathead v8
#1
#2
That's real hard to say. Check the prices on new Edelbrocks for comparison, about $600 a pair most places. I'd say for nice ones, $300 - $400 a set at the top.
Usually used heads are not nearly as shiny as new, and may be corroded on the deck surface, making them hard to seal. They could be cracked, too.
You have to use new bolts or studs/nuts on many aluminum heads, because they are a different thickness than iron heads. I've never been clear on the Edelbrocks on 8BA's.
They are really just for show, most have no performance benefit compared to 8BA/EAB heads. Compared to 8RT heads there probably is a benefit, but shaving the 8RTs would accomplish the same thing.
Usually used heads are not nearly as shiny as new, and may be corroded on the deck surface, making them hard to seal. They could be cracked, too.
You have to use new bolts or studs/nuts on many aluminum heads, because they are a different thickness than iron heads. I've never been clear on the Edelbrocks on 8BA's.
They are really just for show, most have no performance benefit compared to 8BA/EAB heads. Compared to 8RT heads there probably is a benefit, but shaving the 8RTs would accomplish the same thing.
#3
#4
Proceed with caution and as Ross said inspect them carefully. I won't buy a head without taking a straight edge and feeler gauge unless the price reflects the risk I'm taking.. I agree on their minimal benefit if only the heads are changed. If you migrate over to the Ford Barn there are many posts regarding heads.
A friend running an 8ba with aluminum heads had an overheating problem. The culprit were the used name brand heads that had a fair amount of corrosion inside. They didn't look bad but there was enough turbulence created to raise havoc with the water flow. He went to a stock set of 8ba heads and solved the problem.
There are vintage heads that are worth some dough, but if they are used newer heads about 1/2 of retail is fair if they are in good bolt on condition. Polishing and milling could add a couple hundred bucks......
Regards, T.
A friend running an 8ba with aluminum heads had an overheating problem. The culprit were the used name brand heads that had a fair amount of corrosion inside. They didn't look bad but there was enough turbulence created to raise havoc with the water flow. He went to a stock set of 8ba heads and solved the problem.
There are vintage heads that are worth some dough, but if they are used newer heads about 1/2 of retail is fair if they are in good bolt on condition. Polishing and milling could add a couple hundred bucks......
Regards, T.
#5
#6
What heads do you have now? Is your engine apart, on a stand? There is supposed to be a lot to be gained with iron heads if you "clay" the clearance between the pistons and the heads at TDC, and have them milled to create a "squish" zone ~.050" high. I believe "rreed" on here had it done. It makes them more responsive and allows leaner mixes for the same or greater HP. I got as far as clay'ing mine, decided against it for the time being, but am tempted to do it this winter.
Read about heads here: Aluminum head reality check. - The Ford Barn
Read about heads here: Aluminum head reality check. - The Ford Barn
#7
What heads do you have now? Is your engine apart, on a stand? There is supposed to be a lot to be gained with iron heads if you "clay" the clearance between the pistons and the heads at TDC, and have them milled to create a "squish" zone ~.050" high. I believe "rreed" on here had it done. It makes them more responsive and allows leaner mixes for the same or greater HP. I got as far as clay'ing mine, decided against it for the time being, but am tempted to do it this winter.
Read about heads here: Aluminum head reality check. - The Ford Barn
Read about heads here: Aluminum head reality check. - The Ford Barn
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