1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

My New IFS Questions...

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Old 11-11-2015, 12:49 PM
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My New IFS Questions...

HI FTE Friends,
Paul doing my rounds before the holidays gang up...
News,
I believe most of you have met Sebastian. If you haven't, here's a recent photo.
Concerning my 56 F100,
The IFS was installed along with the steering column & Front Disc Brakes.

I have a series of questions that seem to disappear from my mind once I sit in front of the PC...
1. What do I need to know about having it Aligned.
2. Are all front wheel alignment shops the same?
3. Will the lack of "return" of steering wheel be corrected with an alignment?
4. Did I hurt anything by driving normal prior to having IFS aligned?
5. What should I ensure gets lubed/greased up - if anything?

Regarding Master Brake,
1. Seems mushy and pedal drops to the floor when braking and requires pumping - OFTEN.

Throttle,
Seems hard and sticky as well. My FTE friend bailed me out earlier this year when my pedal body throttle snapped in two. Wonder if you'd recommend a better set up for a more efficient throttle control on the floor...

Speaking of Floor,
Anyone using some kind of rubber flooring for the Cab? Not rubber floor mats. While on the rubber topic, what is recommended to cover the road debris around the IFS upper arms (keeping debris from entering engine compartment)

Is there a way to use my original steering wheel (even if modifications are required) on my new set up?

When it comes to weather Rubber for the Doors and Front Air Vent, which Rubber to get and from whom? I'm certain I have other questions, bt want to thank you in advance for your input.

By the way, I just suffered an accident (Sat Nov 7th) with a grinder that came apart during use while cutting with 4 1/2" metal cutting wheel attached. Ouch! I know. Luck! Right?




 
  #2  
Old 11-11-2015, 01:17 PM
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Paul

OUCHHH is right, sorry to see that we all have at one time or another have had run ins with a grinder. I use a full face mask now after getting a pc of metal in my eye while wearing the glasses type eye protection. Sebastion is a healthy looking boy and I am sure he brings you many pleasurable moments.
If everything in the brakes has been bled properly and all parts are in working order I would say it sounds like your brake master cylinder is bad. I would not drive that truck until that problem is resolved.
Front end alignment is pretty basic so most any shop will do fine, but talk with some of your local car buddies. I doubt very seriously if you hurt anything in the small amount of time you have driven it and you would have noticed hard pulls left or right if it was far enough out to damage in such a short time. All zerts should be greased and bearings re packed, but I would guess this was all done during install.
Mid-Fifty carries all the rubber and the floor rubber you are looking for, so if you have their catalog browse thru it.
 
  #3  
Old 11-11-2015, 02:48 PM
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Dang Paul, that wound was so close to your eye that's scary. I've had metal removed from my eye a few times in my life now and try to use a face shield but admittedly still forget at times. Im just happy that your injury was not any worse than it was. Boy Sebastian is growing fast (and cute). I just love Baby's, they are such a blessing. Take care.
 
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Old 11-12-2015, 01:37 PM
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Gery/Jim
Nice to read from you both! I'm sure later other's may chime in...

Yeah, the grinder... enough said. I am healing remarkably well again.

Okay, Gery... I am looking into this (brake) matter.
Thanks on Sebastian guys - he is growing quickly on me I must say... wink

Chat soon again
Paul
 
  #5  
Old 11-12-2015, 02:50 PM
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Paul, enlarge that Photo as big as possible and hang it up in the shop as a reminder to NEVER use a grinder without a face shield and heavy gloves (and even then don't place yourself directly in line with the spinning wheel) ! I bet you could have bought a dozen or more face shields for the cost of an ER visit. I keep telling people about how my brother is blind in one eye because he used a wire wheel with out safety glasses for "just a couple minutes" to finish a job. (stepping off the soap box now)
AFA the alignment: First be sure the lower control arms are parallel to the road with the truck at rest. If not swap the springs first. Second take it to a place that has a computerized 4 wheel alignment rack and uses it frequently. Ask when the last time it was checked and certified by the manufacturer. If it's been longer than a year, or you get an evasive answer or a worse a blank stare, go somewhere else! Ask to be allowed to sit in the truck while it is aligned. (that way your weight on the suspension will be accommodated in the adjustment and you can watch on the screen just how carefully all adjustments are made, each side should match relatively closely, if not insist it be readjusted). First thing the tech should do is check/adjust the air pressure in all the tires. And ask for a copy of the printout for your records so you can compare it to future alignments, this is especially important if you are not 100% happy with the handling as you drive it. I'd have it adjusted to the specs of the year/make/model of the IFS if from a donor, or the manufacturers spec if aftermarket.
Brakes: Is the MC new? is it on firewall or under floor? If underfloor were pressure check valves placed in both the front and rear brake lines close to the MC, and is the flow direction correct? Unless the new MC was specifically for the application, and specifically stated NOT to install check valves. Have you checked that the MC is full?, have you checked every fitting and line for any indication of weeping or leaking, especially while the brake pedal is pumped up and held firmly down by a helper? (important note: there should not be any thread sealer or tape on any brake fitting!) If no leakage or weeping is found, pull the rear drums and peel back the wheel cylinder rubber boots. Is there any signs of any moisture behind them? Who installed the brakes? Was the MC bench bled before installing, was the floating piston check that it is centered, then was the system fully bled after installation while being sure the MC was kept full during the entire bleeding? Was the pedal firm after bleeding? With a power brake system if the pedal is pressed and held with the engine off and while still holding, the engine is started, the pedal should rise a small but noticeable amount. Is the vacuum line attached to the correct port on the engine? There are usually 2 ports on a carbed engine, a timed port and a constant vacuum port. The timed port is usually at the base of the carb and is connected to the vacuum advance on the distributor, the constant port is usually a larger port at the rear of the intake manifold and is used for the brake booster vacuum hse connection. be sure the hose is marked as vacuum hose! Remove the hose and take a good sniff. If you smell brake fluid you likely have a ruptured diaphragm in the booster. You should be able to suck on the end of the hose and be aware of the diaphragm moving, but if you try to blow in the hose it should shut off.
Remember: Sebastian's life may depend on the brakes working properly, fix them or get them fixed immediately!
 
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Old 11-15-2015, 08:46 AM
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Originally Posted by AXracer
Paul, enlarge that Photo as big as possible and hang it up in the shop as a reminder to NEVER use a grinder without a face shield and heavy gloves (and even then don't place yourself directly in line with the spinning wheel) ! I bet you could have bought a dozen or more face shields for the cost of an ER visit. I keep telling people about how my brother is blind in one eye because he used a wire wheel with out safety glasses for "just a couple minutes" to finish a job. (stepping off the soap box now)
AFA the alignment: First be sure the lower control arms are parallel to the road with the truck at rest. If not swap the springs first. Second take it to a place that has a computerized 4 wheel alignment rack and uses it frequently. Ask when the last time it was checked and certified by the manufacturer. If it's been longer than a year, or you get an evasive answer or a worse a blank stare, go somewhere else! Ask to be allowed to sit in the truck while it is aligned. (that way your weight on the suspension will be accommodated in the adjustment and you can watch on the screen just how carefully all adjustments are made, each side should match relatively closely, if not insist it be readjusted). First thing the tech should do is check/adjust the air pressure in all the tires. And ask for a copy of the printout for your records so you can compare it to future alignments, this is especially important if you are not 100% happy with the handling as you drive it. I'd have it adjusted to the specs of the year/make/model of the IFS if from a donor, or the manufacturers spec if aftermarket.
Brakes: Is the MC new? is it on firewall or under floor? If underfloor were pressure check valves placed in both the front and rear brake lines close to the MC, and is the flow direction correct? Unless the new MC was specifically for the application, and specifically stated NOT to install check valves. Have you checked that the MC is full?, have you checked every fitting and line for any indication of weeping or leaking, especially while the brake pedal is pumped up and held firmly down by a helper? (important note: there should not be any thread sealer or tape on any brake fitting!) If no leakage or weeping is found, pull the rear drums and peel back the wheel cylinder rubber boots. Is there any signs of any moisture behind them? Who installed the brakes? Was the MC bench bled before installing, was the floating piston check that it is centered, then was the system fully bled after installation while being sure the MC was kept full during the entire bleeding? Was the pedal firm after bleeding? With a power brake system if the pedal is pressed and held with the engine off and while still holding, the engine is started, the pedal should rise a small but noticeable amount. Is the vacuum line attached to the correct port on the engine? There are usually 2 ports on a carbed engine, a timed port and a constant vacuum port. The timed port is usually at the base of the carb and is connected to the vacuum advance on the distributor, the constant port is usually a larger port at the rear of the intake manifold and is used for the brake booster vacuum hse connection. be sure the hose is marked as vacuum hose! Remove the hose and take a good sniff. If you smell brake fluid you likely have a ruptured diaphragm in the booster. You should be able to suck on the end of the hose and be aware of the diaphragm moving, but if you try to blow in the hose it should shut off.
Remember: Sebastian's life may depend on the brakes working properly, fix them or get them fixed immediately!

I LOVE YOU!
There. I said it.
Paul
 
  #7  
Old 11-15-2015, 09:24 AM
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Hey Paul I met my first bear out in Visalia well actually in the sequoias we were camping and when the ranger gave us the pamphlet on what to do with your food we promptly put it in the glove box without reading and the rest is history. We had no food for breakfast in the morning.
 
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Old 11-24-2015, 07:51 AM
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Originally Posted by artscott61
Hey Paul I met my first bear out in Visalia well actually in the sequoias we were camping and when the ranger gave us the pamphlet on what to do with your food we promptly put it in the glove box without reading and the rest is history. We had no food for breakfast in the morning.
Love it!
It's amazing the sense of smell...
I bet the pamphlet got read shortly thereafter... ?
Paul
Happy Thanksgiving to ALL of FTE!
 
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