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When I got there, the body was worse than the owner described. Big rust in the extended cab area but only on driver side, dirty interior, rigged up crap everywhere, brake pedal goes to the floor, etc. but...
It runs really well, has a rebuilt c6 that shifts firm, 4x4 works, will run straight down highway 75 with no constant correcting.. I ended up buying it for 1700.
The buyers remorse hit me as I blasted through a busy 4 way stop 10 miles from the POs house but still 140 miles form my home. I did get it home about 11 last night.
2 questions...
This truck is worth 1700 right?????
Does the firewall flex thing I heard about cause the pedal to ssink to the floor, or do I need a maste cylinder? (fluid is full)
1 more. It smokes the entire time its running, even a little at idle. I think its been turned up some, and its probably burning some oil to, but thats ok right? It will run forever anyway?
Sorry for the newb post, all input appreciated, Luke
$1700 for a running truck don't sound all that bad but I would start going through it with a fine tooth comb to find everything that needs fixed. It says in the add that he just replaced the brake booster so the pedal to the floor might be caused by a not so good brake bleed job. First I would check the front calipers and rear wheel cylinders for leaks, if none found then I would pull the master cylinder off and bench bleed it, reinstall then bleed the entire system. If this doesn't get your brake pedal up then you probably need to put in a new master.
Sounds familiar... For the brakes, pull your rear wheels and drums.
Be prepared to replace all parts in there - new wheel cylinders, new brake hold down kit, new shoes and even new drums. Clean up all parts you must reuse (parking brake setup, automatic adjustment setup) and lube them properly. Then do the front pads, vibration kit and rotors. Then completely change out the brake fluid via bleeding. Have fun.
i need to repair my rear drums too. the hydraulic system is fine. the shoes and drums are fine. but the parking brake system is shot. i've got broken parts everywhere. its all little clip things and i thnk and adjustor... its been almost a year since i looked at it. i plan to take it appart this weekend and tally up the stuff i need. if you could, could you post part numbers and cost of the parts you throw at yours? i wouldn't even begin to know how to look that stuff up without dragging the whole axle in to oreillys and flopping it down on the counter.
i just answered my own question. i had to go to o'reillys to return a rental tool and while i was there i asked about the brake parts. they said what i needed was the adjuster kit. i went ahead and picked up a set for the right and left side, $7.99 and $8.99. i had already replaced the hardware a few years ago so hopefully all that stuff is still okay., like i said, its been broke for a year and i haven't looked at it in as long
I know it's been said on here many times in the past, but the information you can find on this site is awesome! I have found a solution to my fuel vent problem just by searching. I also learned about Pensacola Diesel and I ordered their fuel return kit. Hopefully my 6.9 will start easier once the leaks are fixed. Next up, brakes and glowplugs! What is the absolute easiest way possible to wire up GPs? Do I need anything but the GPs, wire, and a push button switch?
This is also my first leaf spring TTB 4x4 and I have heard so many stories about how terrible the D50 TTB is. It seems to ride and handle real nice though. I bet it will get me out to the deer stand too!
I know it's been said on here many times in the past, but the information you can find on this site is awesome! I have found a solution to my fuel vent problem just by searching. I also learned about Pensacola Diesel and I ordered their fuel return kit. Hopefully my 6.9 will start easier once the leaks are fixed. Next up, brakes and glowplugs! What is the absolute easiest way possible to wire up GPs? Do I need anything but the GPs, wire, and a push button switch?
There is a sticky at the top of the page that will tell you all about GPs.....good reading to!
motorcraft motorcraft motorcraft!!! don't do like me and a few others and buy autolites or champion cos they're half the price. i went thru a set plus 1 autolites before i wised up and bought motorcraft glow plugs. i had the pushbutton on mine when i bought it. the previous owner said it kept burning up glow plugs. i hated having to turn the key an push the button every time i started the truck. i wanted it to be right so i took it to a mechanic. he replaced the glow plug controller which is just under the glow plug relay. he also installed 8 motorcraft plugs. that was 2 years ago, its still working fine.
Luke,
you over paid.however it is a 4wd,and if you can adress the rust asap,and fix her up a little bit,i think you'll more than get your $ worth out of her.
don't be surprised if she turns into a $ pit though.old neglected trucks require some serious cash to get back on par.
good luck!
oh,and i believe in '85 your front axle would be the D44 not the latter, more heavier duty D50.
Jason,
wow man lol.check them rears at least every 10k miles to have a look at 'em.
X2 exactly on post #2.
(the others are great too! it just stuck me funny,as i was gunna say the exact thing warozz did almost word for word.)
Looks like I might have found my turbo today! I got a lead on am 85 running 2wd standard cab with the banks kit on it for only $800! Body is rough but interior and engine look good and it supposedly is a strong runner.
I am going out Thursday to take it for a ride and possibly bring her home.
Once I get the turbo I will take my truck to my buddies and dyno it before and after to see the actual numbers. Best part about the truck I am looking at... it has a 6.9 that has less then 200k on the clock... can you say backup engine lol
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