Hi everyone I've had some recent problems come up with the front disc brakes. On my 79 ford f150 4x4. So here's what's goin on when I'm driving if I go over 35mph the front end starts to shake violently and make really loud scraping and thumping noises. So I pulled over and looked underneath it and noted that the passenger side caliper is rubbing on the wheel. I noticed that when I turn hard to the left the trick won't hardly move probly because the caliper is rubbing on the wheel. And also there is basically no brake pedal it goes all the way to the floor but comes back after pumping it 5-8 times but then goes away after that but I checked the fliud and its still full on both sides of the master cylinder. What could be causeing all of this? Could there possibly be an internal leak in the master? And on the caliper rubbing the wheel could it have come loose or something cause I really don't think the wheel is bent I haven't curbed it or hit any thing? Someone please help!!! Thanks

 

STOP DRIVING IT! Pull the front wheel's and make sure your calipers are mounted properly! Your description of "pumping the pedal" and the pedal going to the floor and not losing fluid indicates the caliper piston is not being being pushed out completley against the pad\rotor or you have LOT's of air in the brake system. Yes, an internal leak in the MC can cause a brake pedal to go down close to the floor with out losing fluid. If your rear braking system is in good shape and the shoes are properly adjusted, the pedal should not completly go to the floor, and you should be able to stop, unless the MC is totaly shot. The noise you described is an issue that needs to be checked out ASAP! As far as the front end shaking, you have loose steering components agravated by your braking issues. Check your tie rod ends and all steering components for any play\movement while the steering wheel is held tight\not moving.

 

I agree. Stop driving it until you get it fixed!

Caliper rubbing on the wheel indicates that it's not mounted correctly. Especially if you have the exact same wheels on both sides, and there is a fair amount of clearance (1/2" or more) on the non-rubbing side.

As for the no-brakes issue, I would re-bleed all four brakes, maybe even take the wheels and drums off the rear to make sure the shoes are properly adjusted. If that doesn't help, I'd consider replacing the master cylinder - as was said - the MC shouldn't go down to the floor even if line pressure goes out to one half of the system - it should go down halfway, then do *something*.

After you fix the rubbing and braking issues, then re-test drive and let us know if the shaking is still there. The problem may be related, but may also just be a side-effect of the caliper rubbing on the wheel.

~Brad

 

STOP DRIVING IT!! That truck is a DEATH TRAP, either yours or someone else's! Then the first thing to do is a complete inspection of the front end components and brakes. Inspect the frame for breaks where the steering box and other components attach as a starting point. From your description of the problems that is where I would start by having someone turn the steering wheel while the truck is stationary, on the ground and you are underneath looking for parts that are attached to the frame to move. Check that and get back to us with what you find.

 

Get a look at the wheel bearings, that is what controls the clearance between the wheel and the caliper, that is if everything is tight.

 

So my problem is the wheel bearings are worn beyond recognition on that side and not too far behnd on the drivers side. Does anyone have any tips on how to take the locking hubs off cause I've never done it before this is my first 4x4 I don't wanna screw anything up

 

Autozone online has step by step instructions on how to do this for free. Thats what i used when i did my wheel bearings (also a 4x4). Or you could buy a repair manual at a parts store specific to your truck.

 

Ok thanks :-)

 

If they're selectable hubs (manual) this should be pretty close - if not, you should look up some instructions.

1) Remove the Negative Battery Cable (Just kidding!)
2) Remove the six hex bolts on the outside of the hub and rock/pull the hub-cover with selector off
3) Remove the snap ring on the end of the axle (should be easy!)
4) Find and remove the snap ring in the inside of the hub body. It's a big one, and it's a PITA because there are no eyelets to grab onto. A pair of allen wrenches or dental picks work wonders here. EDIT: It looks like this: http://www.lieblweb.com/images/techl...l/BIGSNAPR.jpg
5) Drink beer.
6) Reinstall two of the bolts from step 2, and slide the whole hub mechanism out.
7) Using the special, magical socket, remove the outer axle lock-nut. Some people have had luck with a screwdriver/hammer, I had to buy the stupid socket :-(
8) Remove the lock-washer (allen wrench/dental pick again) and inner axle nut.
9) Remove outer wheel bearing and slide rotor/hub off the axle
10) Remove the seal and inner wheel bearing.
11) Pack new wheel bearing with grease - if you don't know how to do this, I really really REALLY recommend having someone show you how - a book does not do this process justice. It is messy, and if you don't do it right, the bearing will fail again.
12) Install inner wheel bearing. Drive inner wheel bearing seal into place.
13) Reinstall rotor/hub.
14) Pack outer wheel bearing and install.
15) Reinstall from 8 to number 1.

It's pretty simple, the only hard part is the outer clip from step 4. You may not even realize it's a clip at first, depending on the condition of the hub. If you get the axle clip off, then reinstall two of the outside allen screws, you should be able to pull on the hub assembly and you'll see it hit the clip, which is how I found it the first time.

You can see pictures on this page: Welcome to LIEBLWEB.com! Dana 44 Hub Rebuild with Warn Hub Install

~Brad

 

Wow! That sounds awful! I'm going to need to subcribe to this just cause when I go to rebuild my brakes and drums, I don't need this happening to me!

Thank god no one was hurt! 35mph! That's really fast to not be able to stop correctly!

 

I like step number five I'm gonna need lots of beer haha and do I need to put the hubs on lock of leave them free? And ya it was inda scary I hit the brakes and the pedal went to the floor and almost nothing happened almost hit the car in front of me

 

There are several videos on you tube. They are for various hubs but will give you an idea of how they come apart. Type "warn hub rebuild".

 

I don't think it matters, though, the re-assembly will be easier if you leave it set to "Free" - You probably won't take it so far apart to see the spring mechanism that actuates the hub, but when you slide it out (step 6) you should be able to see/feel how it works.

I didn't check youtube, but I can imagine that there are plenty of videos up on hub removal!
~Brad

 

Does anyone know if the inner bearing on my truck has to be pressed onto the spindle caue it will fit in to the rece in the hub but not all the way onto the spindle I'm perplexed any help would be appreciated greatly

 

I've never had one that didn't just slide on. You might have to use some emery cloth to clean up the surface and remove any burrs.