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Will E10 Ethanol (or gas) eat up after market fuel lines? Rubber?

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Old 11-09-2015, 10:02 AM
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Will E10 Ethanol (or gas) eat up after market fuel lines? Rubber?

Hello,


I recently made another thread about my trucks issues which is linked below


The following is the fuel line I put in my trucks tank from top to sending unit because the fuel line broke from sitting for over 2 years with about a half gallon or a gallon of fuel in the tank. It seems to have a different inner than outer rubber.

AutoCraft Fuel Line Hose AC404P: Advance Auto Parts

My question is, how long would it take fuel (E10) to eat that outer portion up? It definitely got softer after I put it on within a few days. I know because it blew off the pump from pressure(did not break at all) after about 2 days and I had to take the bed back off and clamp it to the pump. It has been working so far for 300 miles and about a week. If the fuel will eat that rubber up....
Do you think it would take Days, Weeks? Months?


MY STORY and issue from the other thread..


https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...wer-issue.html
 
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Old 11-09-2015, 11:32 AM
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1. the soft line needs to be rated for ethanol. 2. in pressure situations you need to use fuel injection pressure rated soft lines. You risk fire/explosion if not. Also be sure the line has the correct ID for the application and use the right sized/designed clamps designed for high psi applications...safety
 
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Old 11-09-2015, 11:46 AM
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fuel injection NEEDS fuel injection fuel line..

the hose you link is 50 psi.... E85 rated...

you should be using 80 psi or higher... and use ONLY fuel injection clamps..
that is why the hose slipped off... not worm clamps..
 
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Old 11-09-2015, 11:51 AM
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Originally Posted by Chuck's First Ford
fuel injection NEEDS fuel injection fuel line..

the hose you link is 50 psi.... E85 rated...

you should be using 80 psi or higher... and use ONLY fuel injection clamps..
that is why the hose slipped off... not worm clamps..
The hose slipped off because I used no clamp at all. At first it seemed to hold on while it was dry and I pulled on it. But like Chinese handcuffs the barbs held while i pulled on it, once it had pressure blowing on it from the inside... that was enough to push from the inside instead of pulling from the outside and it was blowing it off the barbs..... Then I put a steel clamp on it to keep it on. It has remained on since. It only took 15 miles and a day or two for it to blow off. I tried to just push it back on to see how much pressure was pushing it off while I had the tank open and It was then blowing off as soon as I started the truck...... Now since putting a clamp on it has went 285 miles and nearly a week so far so good.

I plan on changing the line when I get to Maryland.

I just need to know what the chances are of this line making it to Maryland from Florida and how long will it hold up? I mean, its went 300 miles already and one week.

I am just wondering if I am taking a big risk trying to drive the truck 70 miles then letting it get on a train for a day and then driving another 70 miles where I will then unload my truck and hand it over to my mechanic to fix all its issues.

I know the hose is the wrong hose. I am just wondering if it will be eaten or go bad in the time I need to get it to Maryland.

I looked up again what that hose is made out of... since the inside of it is rated for E85 I am sure the Nitrile on the inside is fine. However, it has a PVC outer shell and that is my concern.

The guide regarding PVC says that PVC is Ethyl Alcohol resistant. In abb. it says Ethanol. But I don't know enough about it all.

Taken from the Chemical resistance guide for PVC below....left is 23c 73f and right is 60c 140f ... R means resistant and C means still resistant for some applications and N means not resistant.

Alcohol, allyl R C
Alcohol, amyl N N
Alcohol, benzyl N N
Alcohol, butyl (n-butanol) R R
Alcohol, diacetone N N
Alcohol, ethyl (ethanol) R R
Alcohol, hexyl (hexanol) R R
Alcohol, isopropyl (2-propanol) R R
Alcohol, methyl (methanol) R R
Alcohol, propyl (1-propanol) R R
Alcohol, propargyl R R


You can find the full chart by clicking this link and then looking for the PDF guide.... https://www.google.com/webhp?sourcei...nol+eat+PVC%3F

So I am wondering if I am misreading the chart. Ultimately I am just trying to find out will this 1 foot of line get me where I need to go. lol

Since I need one rated for 80 PSI, does that mean it can't handle the pressure and will blow out eventually? Or is 80 PSI over doing the pressure allotment so it stands no chance of blowing out?

Also, I was wrong about the type of Hose I have. I have Thermoid Inc SAE 30R7 rated which says

Premium Fuel Line
Designed for conveying gasoline, E-85, diesel, and bio-diesel
fuels in cars, trucks, buses, etc. Handles temperature ranges
of -40 to +257 degrees F. Withstands oil, grease, abrasion,
and ozone. Exceeds the burst requirements of the SAE30R7
specification.
Application: Fuel Line
Style: SAE30R7
Grade: N/A
Specification: Similar to SAE30R7
Branding: Size I.D. SAE30R7 KX (UPC)
Made In USA Date
Cover Color: Black
Tube: NBR
Reinforcement: Two Spiral Polyester
Cover: NBR/PVC
Temperature Resistance: -40°F to +257°F (+302°F Intermittent —
Not for Steam Use)


This is the same material rating this company makes for filler hoses although they are much larger at 1 1/2 inch or 2 inch...

Gas Tank Filler
Designed for connection between gas tank and filler neck on
automotive vehicles. This special hose handles leaded, unleaded,
alcohol-added, diesel, and most modern fuels. Resists heat,
weathering, abrasion, and ozone.
Application: Fuel Line
Style: Gas Tank Filler
Grade: N/A
Specification: SAE30R7
Branding: P/N Size (mm) - Date Code - Made In USA
Cover Color: Black
Tube: NBR
Reinforcement: Spiral Polyester Cord
Cover: CR
Temperature Resistance: 257°F

Thanks for your responses.
 
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Old 11-09-2015, 12:29 PM
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Ethanol has caused issues with fuel systems on older vehicles and especially small motors like chainsaws, weedeaters, lawnmowers, etc. To answer your question about ethanol eating aftermarket fuel lines, only the manufacturer can answer that question. Your parts supplier should have the answer.
 
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Old 11-09-2015, 12:34 PM
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if it disconnected because it became Soft.. that is a problem

but if it disconnected because of fuel pressure.. you should be good...

but by the description it should make it.. but the SOFT in a few days is NOT.


I can NOT give you a better answer.. as you describe .. does not match the description of product.
 
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Old 11-09-2015, 01:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Chuck's First Ford
if it disconnected because it became Soft.. that is a problem

but if it disconnected because of fuel pressure.. you should be good...

but by the description it should make it.. but the SOFT in a few days is NOT.


I can NOT give you a better answer.. as you describe .. does not match the description of product.

This IS in fact the exact hose description per the manufacturer. Of course they wont tell me anything other than it isnt recommended to submerse it in gas. Well of course i know that. They wont tell me how long it will last though...

Premium Fuel Line
Designed for conveying gasoline, E-85, diesel, and bio-diesel
fuels in cars, trucks, buses, etc. Handles temperature ranges
of -40 to +257 degrees F. Withstands oil, grease, abrasion,
and ozone. Exceeds the burst requirements of the SAE30R7
specification.
Application: Fuel Line
Style: SAE30R7
Grade: N/A
Specification: Similar to SAE30R7
Branding: Size I.D. SAE30R7 KX (UPC)
Made In USA Date
Cover Color: Black
Tube: NBR
Reinforcement: Two Spiral Polyester
Cover: NBR/PVC
Temperature Resistance: -40°F to +257°F (+302°F Intermittent —
Not for Steam Use)
 
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Old 11-09-2015, 10:33 PM
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They make hose specifically for submersion in fuel. That is what you need. It is anybody's guess how long that hose will last submerged. You are taking a chance of it failing at anytime. I was able to just tilt the bed enough to remove the fuel sender assembly by removing all the bolts but the 2 by the tailgate. Makes a little less work than removing the bed.
 
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Old 11-10-2015, 06:54 AM
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Originally Posted by slpcth
They make hose specifically for submersion in fuel. That is what you need. It is anybody's guess how long that hose will last submerged. You are taking a chance of it failing at anytime. I was able to just tilt the bed enough to remove the fuel sender assembly by removing all the bolts but the 2 by the tailgate. Makes a little less work than removing the bed.

What would your guess be? How long do you think that fuel line will last?
A few days? A week? A few months?

I have had my bed off 2 times this week and 4 times total in the past 2 years. lol.
It is easy to remove with the bedliner out and the ladder rack off the truck.
But once I put those two things back on it will be a pain to remove.
Especially when I have the truck loaded down with boxes.
 
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Old 11-10-2015, 07:58 AM
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The automotive industry stopped using natural rubber 30 years ago because of the transition to Ethanol.

The hose isn't going to wither away to nothing over night, but no one on here or any other forum can or will tell you how long it will last.

You asking a incredibly specific question the manufacturer of the hose won't even answer.

For perspective I'll tell you this story, in the late 90's I had a 1967 VW bug, the fuel filter clogged on it when I was in the mountains. My buddy and I were 50 miles from the nearest parts store. We replaced the inline fuel filter with a Jack in the Box straw and got it running again. On the way home I picked up a few extra filters, but I decided to test the durability of or makeshift fix. I drove on that straw for 2 weeks, figured the straw did it's job and put in the proper filter.

The point is your worried about nothing, fix it properly when you get to Maryland.
 
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Old 11-10-2015, 08:01 AM
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Originally Posted by Omega Man
The automotive industry stopped using natural rubber 30 years ago because of the transition to Ethanol.

The hose isn't going to wither away to nothing over night, but no one on here or any other forum can or will tell you how long it will last.

You asking a incredibly specific question the manufacturer of the hose won't even answer.

For perspective I'll tell you this story, in the late 90's I had a 1967 VW bug, the fuel filter clogged on it when I was in the mountains. My buddy and I were 50 miles from the nearest parts store. We replaced the inline fuel filter with a Jack in the Box straw and got it running again. On the way home I picked up a few extra filters, but I decided to test the durability of or makeshift fix. I drove on that straw for 2 weeks, figured the straw did it's job and put in the proper filter.

The point is your worried about nothing, fix it properly when you get to Maryland.

Well if a straw can work on your VW bug then I suppose a PVC/Nitrile hose rated at SAE 30R7 should make it a month at least.
 
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Old 11-10-2015, 11:40 AM
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I would imagine, I wouldn't worry about it.
 
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Old 11-16-2015, 10:50 AM
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Originally Posted by Omega Man
I would imagine, I wouldn't worry about it.

Well the truck made it without any issues and is still driving fine today.

I have ordered a complete new sending unit instead of trying to fix this thing with a new line leaving the old stuff in the tank. I plan on cleaning the tank out as well so that I have no issues with clogged up fuel system.

letting that truck sit has been a huge learning experience. DONT DO IT! However, it does not mean the vehicle is damaged. It will just run like crap for a few hundred miles and at times you will swear its blown up.
 
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