Figured I'd start the OFFICIAL thread on this adventure. Since I received the seals in last week. Other then your preferred ball joints the below part numbers are all you need x2 (one of each per side) for this particular part of the job.

5C3Z-3254-B
Includes the vaccum seal, hub nuts, locking hub service kit (screws, seals) hub to knuckle oring , axle shaft retaining ring.

AC3Z-1S175-A
This is the updated outer axle tube dust seal.

K8607T K80026
These are the XRF ball joints I ordered.

To be honest I didn't post the price because I really don't know if ficmrepair.com misquoted me. The price of the 5C3Z-3254-B kit was cheaper than any of the parts in it that I could find. I got to say I don't know why I looked anywhere else. On the ball joints I'm going with XRF. Getting them for 129. They should be here in the next few weeks. My real job is kicking my but so it will be next month before I can start the real fun. So this is the official start.

 

If this is the first time they have been apart it's going to be tough. I had a shop do mine, they have a bugger of time, took an extra day to get the passenger side apart. I used moot greasable top line, very happy, drives so much better. 3 of 4 were completely shot.

 

Yep know it's gonna be a bugger. It's all original but I've been planning for it.
I have all the tools and enough grunt to take care of it. I'll be taking time off to do it just so I can take my time. I think my right side is the worst off but I still don't feel they are completely shot but we'll see. the vaccum seal is going to be the biggest pain I do believe l

 

Just remember PVC is your friend It will help out alot puttin those seals in if your careful

 

Lostru sent me the vaccum seal tool to use. The axle tube seal will get the pvc treatment

 

Just take your time,if you get aggravated, just walk away.Go back later and it will work itself out. Saves on breakin' stuff too!

 

Amen to that. Seems that's the way I have to do everything now days.
Still can't figured out wht I've stopped cussing and throwing things though.
Guess it's just from getting older lol.

 

We used PVC to put the rear crank seal in when we rebuilt my brothers 6.0. Took our time and it worked great.

Spent about an hour at Lowes trying to figure out what I needed to make it work.

 

Well he's got the right putting it in tool. It will be the getting it out that
will take a few. But you know that your going to remove it and toss. So
get out the air chisel and use low pressure with a flat face driver and tap
on the seal back side. Then you do the save to the part that is on the axel
and your clear. Don't try to cut it or use a cut off wheel. You won't ne happy
with ut is you go too deep and cut the stub shaft.



Sean

6.0L Tech Folder

 

A large pry bar behind the knuckle on the axle. Use the axle to push the vacuum seal out. Works like a charm. Now to get it off the stub shaft, I used a long punch and hammer since i didn't have an air chisel.

 

Mine did not want to budge that way. It was well stuck in the knuckle.
Then when I went to install it is did not deep enough do to some rust and
I had pull it back out to do a little clean up that method worked.



Sean

6.0L Tech Folder

 

Luckily I have an air hammer. I'm actually concerned about getting the disc off since they are corroded to the hub.

 

Soak those suckers,and a little heat........they come right off

 

Subscribed.

Good luck, and I think you'll find its actually not that bad depending on how much rust you have.

.

 

Tagging on to this,going to be in my future.