I was hoping someone might have a pic or wiring diagram of the starter relay that is mounted to the fender. I'm trying to start the truck finally but it's just cranking and I think I might have mixed up the wiring.

Is there supposed to be a constant hot at the glow plug relay when the ignition is off?

 

I took some pics standing in front of the truck. E99 I also took off the wire that is the one that activates the starter. Hope this helps ya out.

<a href="http://s146.photobucket.com/user/hotrodfeguy/media/PA190013_zpsarpq0f0d.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r264/hotrodfeguy/PA190013_zpsarpq0f0d.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo PA190013_zpsarpq0f0d.jpg"/></a>

<a href="http://s146.photobucket.com/user/hotrodfeguy/media/PA190014_zps4yx6p3fw.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r264/hotrodfeguy/PA190014_zps4yx6p3fw.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo PA190014_zps4yx6p3fw.jpg"/></a>

 

Looking at the relay face.
The Insulator Spans both Terminals
The Wire with the boot attaches to the Left Post (Relay Trigger)
The Control and Generator Wire attached to the Right Post

GPR

Yes, the Post looking down on the relay LEFT is 12vdc Constant

If you need colors or something post back and I will attempt to locate

 

Will it start in neutral??

 

hotrod, Thanks for the pics they do help. Looks like you went out tonight and took the pics for me, if thats the case thanks a bunch bud!

Thomas, Thanks for the info. I think I'm good on the color code but will let you know. I don't have a boot on my relay but I think I get the idea.

Dean, It's not a neutral safety switch issue. I just put the motor back in from a rebuild and did a engine wiring harness clean up and forgot to take a pic of the relay and I think I got them mixed up.

 

FYI. A multimeter can help figure out the relay, but that won't help with the wiring colors and such unless you trace them

Did you get what you needed from the guys above?

 

I did, thank you.

I also went into another thread (truck eating alternators) and picked Nicmike's brain and got some other pics. I had the the main battery harness to the relay backwards.

I do have another question though... Does the relay have 12 volt power at the upper post closet to the battery? I have 12 volt at the lower post the one with the 4 gauge wire from the battery that powers the glow plug relay/alternator but no power to the other side of the large post, key on or off.

I can crank the motor over with the ignition in the cab which makes me think the relay is good.

 

I haven't played with this relay at all yet, sorry...

Is the post labeled?

One that is on a lot of relays that throws people off is the IGN. It's often used to power things like the fuel pump while cranking the starter- before the computer can take over. I don't know if this relay has IGN, just a general comment.

REading back to your OP, what does your fuel pressure read while cranking?

 

It was reading zero, but I am an idiot lol. I had the 42 pin connecter sitting in the connection box above the valve cover and I never tighten the nut to get a good connection. Now she is trying to fire but the glow plug relay is shot.

 

A1: As a rule, only one side of the Relay has System Voltage. The Coil wire may, or may not have voltage. that depends on a ground / power switched design (wiring).

A2:That is correct.

I would agree the Solenoid is Good.

Looks as though you have the electrical part figured out. Time to get her started.

Do you have a Scantool that will read the PID's?

If so, hook it up and seek minimum voltages from the sensors. You may find one is, or is not connected or even switched for another.

Here are KNOWN GOOD VALUES for Sensors so you have a Delta for comparison:

AP: 5vReference in, 0.5-0.7 volts at idle, 4.5 volts at WOT. PID: AP

BARO: 5vReference in, @4.6 volts/14.7 psi at sea level, decreasing as altitude increases.

CMP: high, 12 volts, low, 1.5 volts.

EBP: 5.0 volts in, 0.8-1.0 volts/14.7 psi

EOT: 5.0 volts in, 4.37 volts@32°F, 1.37volts@176°F, .96volts@205°F. PID: EOT (degrees)

IAT: 5vReference in, 3.897volts@32°F, 3.09@68°F, 1.72@122°F.

ICP: 5vReference in, 1.0volt@580psi, and 3.22volts@2520psi.

EXBP 10-15psig w/ EBPV closed and not exceed 45psi at WOT Note: EXBP showing low (3-5psi) that barley rises with acceleration indicates bad sensor or plugged tube.

IDM: 110 volt signal to the injectors. Grounds each injector as fuel is required for that cylinder. Fuel Pulse width is increased to deliver more fuel. The IDM sends a feedback signal to the PCM for fault detection.

IVS: 0 volts at idle, 12 volts off idle. PID: IVS (off/on)

MAP: Frequency output; 111Hz / 14.7 psi, 130Hz / 20psi, 167Hz / 30psi.

IPR: Idle Warm: 8% - 14%, Idle Cold 10% - 15%, Electromagnetic Coil Test: OHMS = 10.2 - 10.6, Range: 0% - 65% (Not more than 20% Starting).

 

Thanks for the info Thomas. I have AE but need to take off for a couple of hrs. I will post my findings once the computer with AE is charged.

The 42 pin connector was in but not tightened. Ooops.

 

"WiFi Ignition Mode ENGAGED!"

LOL. Glad you found it. Make sure it get fuel pressure

 

The 14 gauge wire on the "upper" pole by itself goes to the solenoid on the starter itself. It will only be hot momentarily with the key turned to the "start" position, and then it will go cold when key is returned to the "run" position.

 

Yes I ran out last night and took a pic for ya as E99 may have been a bit odd sometimes.

 

I hope this helps...