Hackster's F100 CV Swap, Coyote, 6 speed 3 link build thread
#316
Possibilities
Sean,
Since you purchased a wrecked car for the donor drivetrain, it's possible the engine was running on its side or some other position and was starved for oil before someone had the sense to shut it off? The chance you take on a wreck but the savings is often worth the risk.
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Since you purchased a wrecked car for the donor drivetrain, it's possible the engine was running on its side or some other position and was starved for oil before someone had the sense to shut it off? The chance you take on a wreck but the savings is often worth the risk.
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Its the second time I have put them on upside down.....someone called me out on it on the other truck too.
Thank you though.
Thanks you, I really like it as well. Something about a manual transmission just connects you to a vehicle. I dont care what kind of car or truck it is. Three pedals for the win. No hopes really on a magazine feature for the truck, its just an old ****ty truck on the outside =) thanks for the compliments though.
This is exactly my thought as well. I love the chassis and fab work on this thing and nobody will ever see it.
Got the seatbelt for the drivers side all installed, bolted in the seat for temporary and checked it all out. With the stock foams int he seats they are very comfortable. Great seating position and easy pedal operation.
Got the hood on it and tried to line it up but the hood is pretty messsed up from opening going down the freeway sometime in its life.
Had a little bit of help from some friends and figured out why the speedometer was non operational. Turns out the information I got from Ford Racing was wrong and I had two of the wires on the sender backwards. He is a full time tech and we pulled up the wiring diagram from All Data.....It was awesome.
Swapped the two wires back and forth on the connector and Voila....working speedometer.
Now onto the bad news.
I have a noise in the engine that we are unable to locate. It sounds like spark knock or pinging but it sounds pretty mechanical sometimes as well. I pulled the pan a while back and inspected and there was nothing in there. I also did an oil change after running for a couple hours or so and there was nothing in there either.
So I needed to dig further to find said noise....its not healthy.
Pulled Passenger side cam cover to inspect.
I do not see anything wrong on anything that I opened up. The top end on this thing looks like its brand new but I am not a Ford trained technician.
I think it sounds like timing chain to me. The only thing I did see was some whitness marks on the backside of the timing chain that indicate its been running against some plastic, dark colored like black or dark brown. I am wondering if I have a chain guide/tensioner issue but am not too sure how to tell if I do or not.
Oil pressure is excellent 100 psi at startup and around 40 at a hot idle.
Could be spark knock because of the no cats, open exhaust and open element air filter...could be mechanical issues I have no idea at this point.
Any input? Its almost impossible to get video of it since it has to be running and driving.
Pretty sure at this point that I am not going to make Thunder Hill, I just am running out of time to do it all.
Super Bummed out.
Sean
Thank you though.
Thanks you, I really like it as well. Something about a manual transmission just connects you to a vehicle. I dont care what kind of car or truck it is. Three pedals for the win. No hopes really on a magazine feature for the truck, its just an old ****ty truck on the outside =) thanks for the compliments though.
This is exactly my thought as well. I love the chassis and fab work on this thing and nobody will ever see it.
Got the seatbelt for the drivers side all installed, bolted in the seat for temporary and checked it all out. With the stock foams int he seats they are very comfortable. Great seating position and easy pedal operation.
Got the hood on it and tried to line it up but the hood is pretty messsed up from opening going down the freeway sometime in its life.
Had a little bit of help from some friends and figured out why the speedometer was non operational. Turns out the information I got from Ford Racing was wrong and I had two of the wires on the sender backwards. He is a full time tech and we pulled up the wiring diagram from All Data.....It was awesome.
Swapped the two wires back and forth on the connector and Voila....working speedometer.
Now onto the bad news.
I have a noise in the engine that we are unable to locate. It sounds like spark knock or pinging but it sounds pretty mechanical sometimes as well. I pulled the pan a while back and inspected and there was nothing in there. I also did an oil change after running for a couple hours or so and there was nothing in there either.
So I needed to dig further to find said noise....its not healthy.
Pulled Passenger side cam cover to inspect.
I do not see anything wrong on anything that I opened up. The top end on this thing looks like its brand new but I am not a Ford trained technician.
I think it sounds like timing chain to me. The only thing I did see was some whitness marks on the backside of the timing chain that indicate its been running against some plastic, dark colored like black or dark brown. I am wondering if I have a chain guide/tensioner issue but am not too sure how to tell if I do or not.
Oil pressure is excellent 100 psi at startup and around 40 at a hot idle.
Could be spark knock because of the no cats, open exhaust and open element air filter...could be mechanical issues I have no idea at this point.
Any input? Its almost impossible to get video of it since it has to be running and driving.
Pretty sure at this point that I am not going to make Thunder Hill, I just am running out of time to do it all.
Super Bummed out.
Sean
#317
#319
#320
2nd picture? Any other indications of an impact to the engine?
Interesting. I never had an issues with my 5.0, but there sure were a lot of complaints from folks about the ticking, as well as MT82 transmission issues. Nary a one from me . More often than not I think people who buy new cars are overly concerned and paranoid that something may be wrong, at the slightest clunk, tick, click, pop, etc.
Hackster, is the engine entirely stock? Using stock manifolds, airbox, etc? I never went beyond a cat-back on my 5.0, but when I had plans of doing so I spoke to the folks at Evolution Performance outside of Philadelphia. At the time they had the first 9, and 8 second 5.0s, so I figured I would have them tune the car after my planned intake and headers. The rep I spoke to told me that something as simple as an intake or exhaust change (beyond a cat back), absolutely required a tune. I thought he just wanted me to buy from them, but I heard the same line from Bama, and one other tuner I looked into. If you've modified the exhaust or intake in any way, could it be possible that you're actually hearing detonation from a lean condition?
Hackster, is the engine entirely stock? Using stock manifolds, airbox, etc? I never went beyond a cat-back on my 5.0, but when I had plans of doing so I spoke to the folks at Evolution Performance outside of Philadelphia. At the time they had the first 9, and 8 second 5.0s, so I figured I would have them tune the car after my planned intake and headers. The rep I spoke to told me that something as simple as an intake or exhaust change (beyond a cat back), absolutely required a tune. I thought he just wanted me to buy from them, but I heard the same line from Bama, and one other tuner I looked into. If you've modified the exhaust or intake in any way, could it be possible that you're actually hearing detonation from a lean condition?
#321
2nd picture? Any other indications of an impact to the engine?
Interesting. I never had an issues with my 5.0, but there sure were a lot of complaints from folks about the ticking, as well as MT82 transmission issues. Nary a one from me . More often than not I think people who buy new cars are overly concerned and paranoid that something may be wrong, at the slightest clunk, tick, click, pop, etc.
Hackster, is the engine entirely stock? Using stock manifolds, airbox, etc? I never went beyond a cat-back on my 5.0, but when I had plans of doing so I spoke to the folks at Evolution Performance outside of Philadelphia. At the time they had the first 9, and 8 second 5.0s, so I figured I would have them tune the car after my planned intake and headers. The rep I spoke to told me that something as simple as an intake or exhaust change (beyond a cat back), absolutely required a tune. I thought he just wanted me to buy from them, but I heard the same line from Bama, and one other tuner I looked into. If you've modified the exhaust or intake in any way, could it be possible that you're actually hearing detonation from a lean condition?
Interesting. I never had an issues with my 5.0, but there sure were a lot of complaints from folks about the ticking, as well as MT82 transmission issues. Nary a one from me . More often than not I think people who buy new cars are overly concerned and paranoid that something may be wrong, at the slightest clunk, tick, click, pop, etc.
Hackster, is the engine entirely stock? Using stock manifolds, airbox, etc? I never went beyond a cat-back on my 5.0, but when I had plans of doing so I spoke to the folks at Evolution Performance outside of Philadelphia. At the time they had the first 9, and 8 second 5.0s, so I figured I would have them tune the car after my planned intake and headers. The rep I spoke to told me that something as simple as an intake or exhaust change (beyond a cat back), absolutely required a tune. I thought he just wanted me to buy from them, but I heard the same line from Bama, and one other tuner I looked into. If you've modified the exhaust or intake in any way, could it be possible that you're actually hearing detonation from a lean condition?
There is no other signs of damage other than the plastic on the one connector. The electrical connections appear to be just fine inside that one.
Pulled the serpentine belt off last night to rule out alternator, tensioner and water pump. Same noise.
Added in some hyper lube to the engine oil as I have heard good things about it same noise.
Picked up a stethoscope and got it good and warm and tried to pin point the tick. There is literally no noise from the engine. It was loudest near drivers side tire. So I started poking around with the stethoscope around the exhaust and frame then hit the bellhousing and the noise was very clear in the stethoscope.. tick tick tick.
I have no idea if the tick tick tick and clatter are related to each other, they sure sound similar though.
Push in clutch pedal, hot tick goes away.
Going to drain transmission fluid this am and flush and refill with redline MTL.
Interior has to get finished today and over to the upholsterer. Trip permit is going to run out and I need to get it registered so I am playing hooked from work for a little bit today.
Work peeps following along.....thanks for understanding =)
I'll report in in the MTL helped at all.
Sean
#322
2nd picture? Any other indications of an impact to the engine?
Interesting. I never had an issues with my 5.0, but there sure were a lot of complaints from folks about the ticking, as well as MT82 transmission issues. Nary a one from me . More often than not I think people who buy new cars are overly concerned and paranoid that something may be wrong, at the slightest clunk, tick, click, pop, etc.
Hackster, is the engine entirely stock? Using stock manifolds, airbox, etc? I never went beyond a cat-back on my 5.0, but when I had plans of doing so I spoke to the folks at Evolution Performance outside of Philadelphia. At the time they had the first 9, and 8 second 5.0s, so I figured I would have them tune the car after my planned intake and headers. The rep I spoke to told me that something as simple as an intake or exhaust change (beyond a cat back), absolutely required a tune. I thought he just wanted me to buy from them, but I heard the same line from Bama, and one other tuner I looked into. If you've modified the exhaust or intake in any way, could it be possible that you're actually hearing detonation from a lean condition?
Interesting. I never had an issues with my 5.0, but there sure were a lot of complaints from folks about the ticking, as well as MT82 transmission issues. Nary a one from me . More often than not I think people who buy new cars are overly concerned and paranoid that something may be wrong, at the slightest clunk, tick, click, pop, etc.
Hackster, is the engine entirely stock? Using stock manifolds, airbox, etc? I never went beyond a cat-back on my 5.0, but when I had plans of doing so I spoke to the folks at Evolution Performance outside of Philadelphia. At the time they had the first 9, and 8 second 5.0s, so I figured I would have them tune the car after my planned intake and headers. The rep I spoke to told me that something as simple as an intake or exhaust change (beyond a cat back), absolutely required a tune. I thought he just wanted me to buy from them, but I heard the same line from Bama, and one other tuner I looked into. If you've modified the exhaust or intake in any way, could it be possible that you're actually hearing detonation from a lean condition?
#323
With you narrowing the sound to the bellhousing. Seems Ford recognized that the manual trans in some cases, had issues of loose flexplate/flywheel bolts, causing noises.
Don't recall, if you mentioned separating the trans from the engine.
Figured I'd throw that out there if the fluid replacement doesn't help.
Don't recall, if you mentioned separating the trans from the engine.
Figured I'd throw that out there if the fluid replacement doesn't help.
#326
Unfortunately yes.
I found a really hefty exhaust leak mid week so I pulled the exhaust apart and cleaned things up and put some copper RTV on the header flange to the small downpipe and reinstalled. Sounds exactly the same.
Had a friend come over Friday night with a Snap On Chassis ear....that was where the bad news started.
Its either bottom end noise, clutch or transmission.
We picked up a lot of noise on the side of the engine but even more noise on the bellhousing. So not 100% sure if the bottom end is shot or the clutch/tans is shot but something is wrong, broken,damaged for sure.
I started to pull it apart friday night and realized I had over looked something while building the truck......I cannot pull the trans out the bottom of the truck.
But I was able to get the transmission moved back far enough to pull the pressure plate and look at the clutch.
Here is where we get more questions than answers. The clutch is like brand new. Ford part with a manufacture date of 01/21/15, I had the car in what september and I bet the clutch took a couple of months to get shipped and installed so it might be four or five months in the car.
However the springs are really beat up and two of them are pretty loose in the cage. The center hub has a good tick tick tick to it as well when you rotate it in the clutch. When we were pulling out the driveline you could hear the clutch rattling as we were rotating the driveline back and forth
On the spring hub clutch you can see where the sprung hub portion has rotated all the way to one side and hit the stops.
All tore up....
I randomly talked with a guy in Seattle yesterday who races in a spec mustang class. He seemed to know these things better than most. I explained my issues, little bit of end play in the input shaft, rattle on bottom end and stuff and he said replace the clutch. DO NOT PUT A FORD CLUTCH in it though. He said on their spec cars they have to run the Ford clutch and can barely get a race weekend out of one clutch. He said get ahold of ACT and order their setup for it and be done with it. Then put it all back together and see what happens.
So as of right now that is my plan. Order a clutch on Monday and get it here as fast as possible and see what happens.
Oh, my Dakota Digital OBD adapter died also, so I have a new one of those coming Tuesday as well.
Totally running out of steam on this thing. If its bottom end, not too sure what I am going to do.
Here is crossing my fingers to this fixing it...
Sean
I found a really hefty exhaust leak mid week so I pulled the exhaust apart and cleaned things up and put some copper RTV on the header flange to the small downpipe and reinstalled. Sounds exactly the same.
Had a friend come over Friday night with a Snap On Chassis ear....that was where the bad news started.
Its either bottom end noise, clutch or transmission.
We picked up a lot of noise on the side of the engine but even more noise on the bellhousing. So not 100% sure if the bottom end is shot or the clutch/tans is shot but something is wrong, broken,damaged for sure.
I started to pull it apart friday night and realized I had over looked something while building the truck......I cannot pull the trans out the bottom of the truck.
But I was able to get the transmission moved back far enough to pull the pressure plate and look at the clutch.
Here is where we get more questions than answers. The clutch is like brand new. Ford part with a manufacture date of 01/21/15, I had the car in what september and I bet the clutch took a couple of months to get shipped and installed so it might be four or five months in the car.
However the springs are really beat up and two of them are pretty loose in the cage. The center hub has a good tick tick tick to it as well when you rotate it in the clutch. When we were pulling out the driveline you could hear the clutch rattling as we were rotating the driveline back and forth
On the spring hub clutch you can see where the sprung hub portion has rotated all the way to one side and hit the stops.
All tore up....
I randomly talked with a guy in Seattle yesterday who races in a spec mustang class. He seemed to know these things better than most. I explained my issues, little bit of end play in the input shaft, rattle on bottom end and stuff and he said replace the clutch. DO NOT PUT A FORD CLUTCH in it though. He said on their spec cars they have to run the Ford clutch and can barely get a race weekend out of one clutch. He said get ahold of ACT and order their setup for it and be done with it. Then put it all back together and see what happens.
So as of right now that is my plan. Order a clutch on Monday and get it here as fast as possible and see what happens.
Oh, my Dakota Digital OBD adapter died also, so I have a new one of those coming Tuesday as well.
Totally running out of steam on this thing. If its bottom end, not too sure what I am going to do.
Here is crossing my fingers to this fixing it...
Sean
#330
You and me both..Thanks Gary
Spent the weekend doing chores around the house, organizing some stuff and recycling a ton of stuff. Even did a couple of house projects....I know what???
In cleaning up I decided I finally needed to get rid of this stuff and build the seat I have wanted since we pulled the seat from the truck, it is in immaculate condition.
Here is the Grille Narrowed up 8" to match the width of the bench.
Got the frame all built for the seat and getting the fit better on the height of the seat as a sofa and the fronted fit up where it needs to go.
Here is the somewhat finished product. I need to make a top cap for the frontend, I dont like how unfinished it is and I still need to find a couple of bezels for it. Anyone have a couple they want to get rid of, white and beat up is totally cool with me.
I raised the grille up off the floor a fair bit. Bench might be a little bit tall for some but its about perfect for me.
Armrests turned out cool for just some flat stock welded up and capped the 1" square tube.
If I had more room I would just keep it in the shop. Its going to our new office we are moving into at the end of next month.
I am going to clear the entire thing and see how many bad looks I get at the shop =)