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So I looked at all the info about the leak down test. Looks like it could tell me a heck of a lot. I don't have a leak down tester and it looks like orielys doesn't have one for rent or sale. Any suggestions on which one to get? If it's under $100 it's relatively cheap knowledge, and there are some as cheap as $50 on amazon. Also would it be worth running a compression great with the leak down? And last question. I assume I'd be pulling glow plugs to run leak down or compression test. What size are the threads?
You have a Harbor Freight near by they have one. You will
also need the glow plug adaptor to make it or a compression
tester work.
This is the adaptor.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/OTC-Tools-6660-Ford-6-0L-Diesel-Compression-Tester-Adapter-/321755775509?hash=item4aea238215&item=321755775509&vxp=mtr
You need the extended tip to get in with. After that you can DIY make one.
There are a few how to on Youtube on how to make your own.
My opinion about your turbo is that if that is the only damage to the impeller I'd run the crap out of it. You might want to put a bearing kit in and reseal it but IMHO that's nothing to worry about. Worst case scenario is to take it to a turbo shop and have it rebalanced, but I wouldn't bother at this point. You can have the turbo done while you're doing the oil cooler and MAYBE headgaskets.
To me, the main point is how does it run good and not burn any oil. If it does, why are you looking or problems that don't cause any issues?
What I would do is a "dynamic" compression test. You might have to disable the engine from starting but if you have a long crank you could tell from that. Crank the engine so that it goes through several revolutions. It should hear a steady er,er,er,er,er,er........... If you hear a er,er,er,er,AH,er,er,er,er,er,er,er,er,AH........ it a sign of a possible cyl with low compression.
Next thing I would do is remove the oil fill cap while engine is warm and idling and look at the amount of blow by coming out. It would be better if the air cleaner was off also so you can see to vent that goes into the turbo intake also. There should be a just small amount of gasses coming out while idling. If you have access to known good 6.0 you could compare the two. You can also put the cap back on and just look at the vent. Cap the vent of with you hand for about 3 seconds and let go. There should have been a small amount of pressure built up, again comparing to a known good 6.0 will be a good way to tell.
There is also a simple manometer test you can do. I will post more on that.
Look at Measuring Blow by - The Real Test For Internal Engine Condition
It should be done under load but if it doesn't pass unloaded,it wont pass loaded
Some info on the Cummins 5.9, specs should be about the same for the 6.0 http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/3r...t-results.html
If you do replace the oil cooler and then drive it and see if there are any issues you are not out that much money. If it does burn a little oil, big deal, oil is cheap compared to a new engine.
Myself, I would try to make the best of it instead of taking a big loss now.
Crank the engine so that it goes through several revolutions. It should hear a steady er,er,er,er,er,er. If you hear a er,er,er,er,ah,er, it a sign of a possible cyl with low compression.
Next thing I would do is remove the oil fill cap while engine is warm and idling and look at the amount of blow by coming out. It would be better if the air cleaner was off also so you can see to vent that goes into the turbo intake also. There should be a small amount of gasses coming out while idling. If you have access to known good 6.0 you could compare the two.
There is also a simple manometer test you can do. I will post more on that.
This is great advise and I should have posted it earlier. Disconnect the starter wire at the passenger side fender well and touch it to the battery positive post. This Will crabk it but it won't start. If it turns over even, your very likely good and toy have even compression. If there is a speed up on one our more cylinder, it needs rebuilding. If your even, in time, I would do a compression or leak down to see if there it's a loss of compression from dust going through the turbo.
Agreed on the turbo above. It it operates and gives good boost (20 to 28), drive it till it doesn't boost correctly.
Fwiw,
I did my wife's 6.0 last March, tip broke off of an injector, it cost my around 7500 in parts but I did everything, new oil cooler, BPD EGR cooler, 8 injectors, studs, gaskets, front and rear main seals, heads when through a complete rebuild, 1 new piston and rings, new oil pan, new crank and cam sensors, new bed plate seals (I had to split the engine to do that one piston), etc etc, I plan on keeping the truck til I die, so my point is what is your long term plan for the Trk to me that's the first question at hand and repair as needed. I did this in my shop pulled the engine and did all the work except the heads. I had help, you need help to r&r the engine, its heavy but it can be done.
I know I'm digging up an old dead thread. I just wanted to take a moment to say thank you to all you awesome fte people who helped me with the truck. You didn't have to, but you did, and it was awesome.
So as an update, with all the knowledge you dropped on me I decided that the best thing for that truck was a complete engine.
- turbo wasn't right
- engine had tons of blow-by, if I removed the oil fill plug turned it upside down and tried to set it on the spout it wouldn't get to within an inch under its own weight it would just get blown off.
-Head gaskets were blown. Pressure gauge off of degass bottle would jump to sixteen within 10 seconds of 75% throttle on flat ground and then sit there and flutter as long as the engine was running.
-Hpop wasn't working within the normal operating parameters according to the tech folder
-Bad glow plugs on 3, 5, 7, and 8
On top of all that the transmission was throwing codes and didn't shift right and both front and back differentials had burnt fluid and a ton of metal.
So I took my time and finally found a buyer got nearly 6k with full disclosure of its issues. It was a loss but it didn't break the bank.
After all of this the wife would not allow another 6.0 in the driveway, believe me I tried. (So much fun to drive) So now there is a low miles 7.3 in my driveway, wife is happy, but its going to cost a ton of money to make it drive like a 6.0.
Next truck, when I have a little more time and money, 6.0 for sure, although building my 89 idi into a 350hp all mechanical monster might still be a little higher on the priority list.
Thanks again for all the help guys!
I'll keep trolling this part of the forums but won't have a reason to post, for now!
10-07-2015, 04:10 AM
