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Radiator isolator bushing removal?

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Old 09-21-2015, 03:29 PM
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Radiator isolator bushing removal?

2008 6.4L F250 Crew. I just recently had a new radiator installed while the cab was off for an oil cooler change. I noticed that my lower front bushings are gone and need to be replaced.

I thought it would be an easy, pull the bolts drop the lower bushing and reinstall. Looks like they don't come out so easily. Is there a trick to getting the lower mounts/bushings separated from the uppers?

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Old 09-22-2015, 07:58 AM
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This one must be a mystery, maybe Ive used the wrong term and should have said front body mount bushing. The procedure isn't in my shop or service manual and I cannot find anything online. Learned the hard way that you don't want to break the bolt inside the frame support away from the tabs that lock it in.
 
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Old 09-23-2015, 10:51 AM
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Are you describing the cab to frame body mounts? Pictures are worth 100K words. There is likely a metal sleeve inside that's not allowing the halves to separate? How many miles on this 08 and is it rusty? Buy a new bushing and look at it. It will reveal installation directions just seeing the new part.
Generally speaking bushings need to be fire wrenched out, pressed out or cut out. But body to frame bushings generally separate once the body or frame is released. Then the bushings lift out, possibly with a little persuasion with a BFH. Again pics here would zero in on the question.
 
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Old 09-23-2015, 12:48 PM
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Thanks for the reply.

Yes, the body bushing is what Id call it although Ford doesn't seem to use that term. Very front of the truck and supports the cross brace that the radiator sits on.

Prybars and hammers didn't work and from the looks cutting it out wont get me anywhere. Its the reason for so many cracked radiators, bushings go bad/compress and the radiator flexes popping the plastic end caps.

I ordered the top bushings and will pick them up today to compare. I've changed out bushings before, not new to wrenching, but this one has me. Before I get out the big guns decided Id ask. Pics attached for reference.




 
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Old 09-23-2015, 01:12 PM
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You are having a problem getting the bolt out?
 
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Old 09-23-2015, 01:38 PM
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No sir, bolt came out just fine but the bottom mount will not separate from the top. I assume the bottom press fits or flares into the top after torqued down although I couldn't get it to budge.

These are not threaded like other bushings and you cannot "press" them out using a 3in piece of pipe and bolt/all thread. Tried that and the result was me removing the headlight and splash guard to fish the cage nut out of the support with a magnet. Its held in with push tabs, ford calls it a FESM bolt, Front End Sheet Metal bolt.


 
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Old 09-23-2015, 01:54 PM
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I think they just get stuck over time, maybe try a pickle fork? If not, a wedge/pry tool such as those at Harbor Freight.
 
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Old 09-23-2015, 05:56 PM
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Just picked up the top bushings and its obvious now, you have to use some force. There are tabs inside the upper bushing sleeve that lock the lower bushing into it.

 
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Old 09-23-2015, 07:26 PM
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Yeah that's not coming out. Before the force route I rolled some thin sheet metal into a tube and split it. My thought was Id be able to slide it up inside the mount and put the tabs up to release the lower mount. No go.

Not sure how the aftermarket kits get away with selling only the urethane bushings if these things don't come out intact. Looks like sawzall will take a shot.
 
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Old 09-24-2015, 12:45 PM
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Yep that's why I recommended getting the new part to shed the light....been there done that. Let us know how it came out. Sawzall may get you to the promised land.
Let me ask a stupid question...shouldnt the core support be raised up more to get the upper mount to clear that flange to allow it to be lifted out of the frame?
 
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Old 09-24-2015, 10:57 PM
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They came out with a torch. The old mounts did have the same tabs inside them although they were rusted in place mentioned. I did raise the support after backing off a few of the other cab mounts to avoid added stress. Good thing they don't have to be replaced often, basically $100 a mount from Ford.

The truck does ride a lot smoother now, I was thinking it was time for shocks. I bought this truck in July and the following week realized it needed oil cooler, radiator and had three broken exhaust manifold bolts on the drivers side. That was a nice little $4200 bill that will teach me to question the dealers "inspected" speech.

I have also been having electrical issues that may have been diagnosed today. Lifted the carpet up to pull the plugs for the cab bolts and there was dried mud under the carpet
 
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Old 09-25-2016, 02:27 PM
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What did you torque the bolts to once you replaced them?
 
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