Update (10/15/15): Got my blackstone report back and everything looked great. I guess I got lucky. I've attached the report in a reply down below.


So I've owned my 6.0 for about 8 months and put about 9,000 miles on it. My first diesel. Did my research up front, have been very meticulous about reading up on all procedures before doing them and have had a lot of success. Until now.

Previous owner had installed an aftermarket oil filter with this taller aftermarket cap.



When I first got the truck I changed the oil going to a Motorcraft filter. I thought it odd that the filter was hard to remove and reinstall in the cap, but I just figured that was normal so I proceeded on.

Second oil change at 5,000 miles it didn't click either when I did the same. I added Archoil at that change, which didn't seem to make any difference in noise or starting (starting hasn't been an issue).

So I've been bypassing the oil filter and the drain valve from the filter housing has been open for 9,000 miles. I would have thought the engine would have grenaded by now. But it's been running fine. Builds oil pressure soon after start, doesn't make any weird noises. When I pull the filter it is completely soaked in oil so it seems to be doing something or just the filter housing is getting full of oil?

The oil drain valve in the filter housing seems to work. The spring is pretty weak on it, so I'm thinking perhaps the oil pressure in the housing helped to close it, at least partially?

I've now got the correct cap and changed the oil. Motor seems to run just the same and didn't change any noises. Drain plug magnet was clean. Oil didn't look too bad. It had been 4000 miles.

I've done a few family camping trips pulling a 8,000 trailer, but otherwise just daily drive duties so it hasn't seen much load.

I'm going to send a sample of the oil I just drain to Blackstone for analysis. Unfortunately the first on this engine so I don't have a baseline.

Is there anything else I should be checking? I'm thinking about checking base oil pressure as I think the biggest concern is the main & rod bearings? Also worried about what might have gotten into the injectors?

I also want to suggest we make a specific item in the "Tech Folder" as I've read thru the tech section many times and been reading here almost every day since I bought the truck and just now came across this issue. It's definitely discussed in various threads if you look for it, but I think we need to make this a checklist item in bold print for new owners due to the huge risk to the motor and the relative ease of repair.

Thanks!

 

Here is the Blackstone Numbers:


Aluminum 3
Chromium 1
Iron 11
Copper 2
Lead 3
Tin 0
Moly 64
Nickel 1
Manganese 0
silver 0
Titanium 0
Potassium 1092 (Archoil)
Boron 933 (Archoil)
Silicon 13
Sodium 13 (Archoil)
Calcium 877
Magnesium 1083
Phosphorus 1008
Zinc 1208
Barium 0


SUS Viscosity @210F 71.5
cSt Viscoity @100C 13.35
flashpoint 450F
Fuel % <0.5
Antifreeze 0%
Water 0%
Insolubes 0.2%

 

That viscosity is VERY confusing. I absolutely do not believe that oil in a 6.0L can go 4 - 5000 miles and still be at a 71.5 SUS viscosity. That value is where they start out.

 

The filter was hard to remove from the cap because it is not supposed to be removed. The oil filter housing drain valve is closed when the oil filter is installed, pushing it down and closing it. The spring is very light - leave it alone. This is one of the problems with using the wrong/aftermarket filter and cap combination as the drain valve may not have been closed. I have seen filters ripped out of those caps leaving pieces of the old filter inside... a new EOM filter jammed into the housing and then tightened down destroying the filter stand pipe.

 

Since you found that, you should also check your fuel filters. Lower MC filter has an aquablok gauze wrap on it to stop water intrusion. If I were you I'd just go ahead and change them. They come two in a kit, upper and lower.

 

There are lots of oil threads on here and perhaps black stone can give you some references on your oil. I would just be careful on oils you use. Is the Archoil API rated CI 4 plus or CJ 4? What is the weight rating using standard, 15w40?

 

I agree, this is a very important maintenance issue especially for new owners. WIX (who makes some good stuff btw) did the 6.0 community a big disservice with their redesign. No telling how many trucks are out there with that oversize cap and a properly sized filter rattling around under it. Fram hasn't helped either by selling a repackaged Racor and then switching to a different design that requires adapters to fit and function properly. The water block membrane on the Motorcraft fuel filters is another good point also.

Nothing eye-catching has been posted in the Tech Folder, maybe because it's hard to write about without mentioning manufacturers or because no one has posted a thread where it's all summed up in one place. You will often see new owners admonished to use MotorCraft filters only here. I guess that's just easier that explaining why. Sometimes you can almost hear the new to 6.0 OP going "Pfftt,,,whatever". There are several threads that have good info including the Ford video discussing fitment and dimensions , media, adhesives and seals used in their filters, but you do have to look for them.

 

I thought I mentioned this in another thread, but from the small sample I've seen it looks like Fram no longer repackages the Racor filter but possibly a generic aftermarket. I also looked into two Motorcraft boxes at a Walmart and neither of them has the classic "patented" ID on those filters either, but I believe Walmart stock has had issues of filters being swapped around in the boxes. But I haven't paid attention to many filter stories lately as I'm still working off my box of Racor elements from a few years back.

 

Thanks for the additional replies guys. Fortunately the fuel filters were motorcraft and no issues there. Changed them when I got the truck and changed again at +9k miles when I did the oil change mentioned above.

Almost ready for another oil change and hopefully the Blackstone still looks good.