Thanks Steve. I wouldn't have thought to use my wire wheel that I put into my cordless drill.

 

Fix the dragging brake caliper first, then see what else is going on. You probably have two simultaneous problems. Look for a kinked or defective brake hose, a binding caliper, and the like.

 

I'm doing that while I replace pads & rotors & cleaning things up. So far nothing apparent.

 

make sure those two sliding pins move in and out real easy in the caliper mount. Sometimes I have to sandpaper the dowels and spray penetrant / cleaner / ect in the holes to get a good slide.

 

Thanks again Steve.

They did seem to be sliding smoothly but since I was there I took them out & cleaned them up. I wire wheeled some rust of the head of them & rubbed the rest of them with never-dull so they're nice & smooth. I intend to lube them with Brake Caliper Grease and Dielectric Compound (D7AZ-19A331-A (Motorcraft WA-10)). Do you happen to know if it is ok to use that on other brake system parts? Such as the anti-rattle clips, piston boots, & the back of the pads? Also, I never seem to know how much lube is enough & tend to over do it. Would that cause problems here?

 

What will cause problems is using Brake Caliper GREASE on the slider pins and boots. A petroleum product will attack the rubber boots causing them to swell and lock the pins/calipers in place. (If you have used a petroleum product, you can remove the boots and pins and wash them thoroughly in dish detergent, rinse and dry.)


Use the Motorcraft Dielectric COMPOUND on the pins/boots.


You can use small dabs of the caliper GREASE on the ears of the pads where they contact the anchor plate rails so they can slide a little easier.

 

I've been using SIL-GLYDE BRAKE LUBRICANT for many years. I think the tube I bought years ago is turning out to be a lifetime supply!

Sil-Glyde Silicone Brake Lubricant, Tube, 8 oz « AGS Company

 

Well...how is a wheel stud replaced? Just noticed that 3 threads at the tip of one are messed up. Apparently it got in the way of one of my hammer strikes.

 

If its the outside 3 threads and the rest looks good... the old trick is to take a small grinder or file and just wipe off the bad area. The nut will go past that and the last 2-3 threads don't do anything to help.......

The stud is normally a press fit in the hub. You put something like a 1 inch socket on the back OVER the head of the stud, then use a C-clamp to push the stud out into the socket. you put the new stud in the hole and put the socket on the front and push the stud into the hub and it comes thru into the hollow socket........... may or may not be room to do this on the truck......... easier to grind off a couple threads.

 

Cool...I'll get my Dremel & take care of that. It's about the only tool that isn't out at the truck already.

 

To avoid the new rotor from becoming corroded on like the old one was, I'm considering putting a thin coating of anti-seize everywhere it contacts the spindle.

Ok or not ok to do?

 

More help needed...

These are the Motorcraft pads I bought 1998 Ford F-150 Disc Brake Pad | FordParts.com
2 of the pads have a metal clip on them which acts as a wear indicator by making contact with the rotor. I need to know if that one is the inner or outer pad.

Also, is anyone familiar with these more expensive Motorcraft SuperDuty Brake Pads for F150's?
1998 Ford F-150 Disc Brake Pad | FordParts.com

 

I normally put the indication on the side that has the caliper piston since it PUSHES into the disc........ I normally run a flapper wheel inside the center of the disc to get the hole a thousandth or so bigger ( or at least clean) and then put anti sieze on the bore and stud holes as you said. It will come off easier next time.

 

Ok. But what do you mean by a flapper wheel?

 

Let me google that for you