1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

Master Cyl Brakes Upgrade???

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  #31  
Old 07-13-2016, 03:28 PM
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JPMallory
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Originally Posted by doublecanister
Hey JPMallory


One other question on this "setup" of yours, (I'm trying to put together a shopping list) and I believe what you have there will work in my situation. Except I'll still be all drum brakes. (for now at least).

Someone mentioned a pressure brake light switch, I'd need that since the stock one wouldn't work I don't believe., good catch.

But, the line plumbing. Going from what I have (stock setup with single m/c) to this dual res M/C,

I'll need to replace all the lines anyways..... so

What did you use for a guide to do this plumbing of the lines?
As in:
Which port on the M/C went to the front brakes /the rears?
Did you use a proportion valve and or residual valves?
if so where?
how many residual valves were used?

Sorry for all the questions but I believe If I get this right in my mind I can do this.

The other confusing thing is this: on a Firewall mount I always thought the front MC res was for the rear, and the rear mc/res was for the fronts.
so in our trucks, mounting them under the floor backwards would that same method be right?
(hopefully now you understand why i'm so confused! LOL)


So I'm not %100 on which way to go.
But, I believe I'm on the right path with all yall's help. And I've pre-sourced the parts that I know of.

Any recommendations or references to a "how too guide" if it's necessary would be greatly appreciated!


I've got to get all the parts and a few tools to do this but I'm itchin to get er dun!


Also, I've mulled going stainless steel or regular steel lines. I've mucked with stainless only once on my 66' Mustang, that stuff was a ***** to bend, so I'm leaning on regular steel, heck if regular steel lasts me 10 years I'd be doing good. (truck's garage kept anyways).



Thanks guys!

T
You might read this for some info:

Brake Selection and Design

I did use a proportioning valve and residual valves (2psi to front for discs, and 10psi to rear for drums).
 
  #32  
Old 07-13-2016, 06:21 PM
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doublecanister
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Originally Posted by JPMallory
You might read this for some info:

Brake Selection and Design

I did use a proportioning valve and residual valves (2psi to front for discs, and 10psi to rear for drums).


Thanks JP!

T
 
  #33  
Old 12-26-2016, 10:18 AM
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doublecanister
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not much of an update

Hey Guys,

I had to curtail this project due to work/family issues, I ended up going back stock for now, I replaced all the lines and put a new single M/C on the truck and all is well for now.

Pop's ended up in the hospital and I've been tending to him since he got out, he's much better now!

Since then I brought the Mustang back home, now it's got brake issues as well, so I may look at doing this on the Stang next.

Funny how crappy brakes make you not want to drive a certain vehicle, the Stang has the GT brakes on it (Large single M/C, 4piston Kelsey-Hays discs up front) and I replaced all the lines with SS lines and DOT 5 Silicone fluid back in 94 cause I knew the car would sit more than drive.
Guess I didn't do too bad for them to just now start acting up but the car never really had "stop on a dime" brakes, more like stop in the next block maybe if you stand on the pedal.

Well between the truck and the stang I should be able to figure out a similar plan...Power brakes are sounding like a nice way to go!

T
 
  #34  
Old 04-21-2017, 09:13 PM
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Can we re-open this topic.


I would like to go to a dual master cylinder setup, while making as few other changes as possible. (drum/drum)




The bob drake adapter is sold out. So I went looking to chassis engineering instead.


1. Is this the same adapter.


AS-2021 Master Cylinder Adapter for 1935-1940 Ford - Chassis Engineering Inc




2. Which master cylinder would you use for a straight drum/drum setup?
I'm assuming its one of the last 60s mustang manual brake drum drum ones? Part #?


3. What was the final thoughts on the brake light switch?


4. For a straight drum/drum conversion is there anything else required for line pressure?




Thanx,


Kirk
 
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