1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

302 timing chain replacement

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #1  
Old 07-21-2015, 12:32 AM
82bull's Avatar
82bull
82bull is offline
Freshman User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2015
Posts: 28
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
302 timing chain replacement

Hi, What tools do I need to remove and replace the timing chain on my ford 302? I am still in high school and on a budget and have some wrenches and basic hand tools like sockets but that's about it.

Considering I am still novice at this is it even practical? I can do oil changes and I have changed u - joints and v-belts but that's about it. If I were to do it myself, what all needs to be removed, and how long would it approximately take me?
 
  #2  
Old 07-21-2015, 12:35 AM
82bull's Avatar
82bull
82bull is offline
Freshman User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2015
Posts: 28
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Also, my truck is an '82. Were they still using nylon chain parts in that era?

Say I were to pay a mechanic to do it, what should I be expecting to spend? Of course, I would go with a good metal double roller chain.
 
  #3  
Old 07-21-2015, 07:18 AM
Gary Lewis's Avatar
Gary Lewis
Gary Lewis is offline
Posting Legend
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Northeast, OK
Posts: 32,866
Likes: 0
Received 26 Likes on 24 Posts
Well, it is impossible to say how long it will take as we don't know what experience or knowledge you have. But I would say it is a full day's work for someone who really knows what he is doing. I would give myself two days, and I've been working on engines since the mid-50's.

Here are just some of the things you'll have to do:
  1. Bring engine to TDC on #1 cylinder. This will require a large socket (15/16") and a break-over on the crank bolt.
  2. Drain coolant
  3. Disconnect battery
  4. Remove all belts to alternator, etc
  5. Remove upper radiator hose
  6. Remove fan
  7. Remove shroud
  8. Remove bypass hose
  9. Remove water pump
  10. Remove harmonic balancer. This takes a puller that you should be able to "rent" at a local parts store.
  11. Remove timing cover
  12. Remove fuel pump
  13. Check to ensure marks are aligned on sprockets
  14. Remove old chain and sprockets and install new - without turning the crank.
  15. Reassemble

Edit: The needed socket for the crank bolt is 15/16", not 13/16 as I initially said.
 
  #4  
Old 07-21-2015, 02:58 PM
FordFETruck's Avatar
FordFETruck
FordFETruck is offline
Logistics Pro
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Algona,WA
Posts: 4,488
Received 19 Likes on 15 Posts
15/16" Gary.
 
  #5  
Old 07-21-2015, 02:59 PM
Gary Lewis's Avatar
Gary Lewis
Gary Lewis is offline
Posting Legend
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Northeast, OK
Posts: 32,866
Likes: 0
Received 26 Likes on 24 Posts
Thanks, Matthew. Yes, I was WRONG! I'll change that post to make sure someone doesn't get the wrong socket.
 
  #6  
Old 07-22-2015, 11:52 AM
Nothing Special's Avatar
Nothing Special
Nothing Special is offline
Logistics Pro
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Roseville, MN
Posts: 4,964
Likes: 0
Received 50 Likes on 45 Posts
I agree with Gary, I'd give myself a full 2 days if I was committed to getting it done quickly. But more often I wouldn't work on it full days and it would drag out to a week or more of part-time work (but compared to Gary I'm a newbie, I've only been working on engines since the mid-70s )

And I'll add a few things to his list (in red below). Not that they are necessary, but they may or may not help out.

Originally Posted by Gary Lewis


Here are just some of the things you'll have to do:
  1. Bring engine to TDC on #1 cylinder. This will require a large socket (15/16") and a break-over on the crank bolt.
  2. Drain coolant
  3. Disconnect battery
  4. Remove all belts to alternator, etc
  5. Remove upper radiator hose
  6. Remove fan
  7. Remove shroud
  8. Remove bypass hose
  9. Remove radiator (not strictly necessary, but does give you more room to work)
  10. Remove water pump (this may well be the hardest part of the job, depending on how long it's been there and whether anti-seize was used it can be a REAL bugger to get all of the bolts out)
  11. Remove harmonic balancer. This takes a puller that you should be able to "rent" at a local parts store.
  12. Remove timing cover (This includes removing some bolts that go up into the timing cover through the oil pan)
  13. Remove fuel pump
  14. Check to ensure marks are aligned on sprockets
  15. Remove old chain and sprockets and install new - without turning the crank.
  16. Reassemble. Note that the bottom of the timing chain cover seals to the front of the oil pan. You'll need to clean both surfaces and seal it back up. Some people recommend pulling the entire oil pan off to reseal all of it. but that can be a bugger with it in the truck too.
 
  #7  
Old 07-22-2015, 01:15 PM
ctubutis's Avatar
ctubutis
ctubutis is offline
Moderator
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Denver Metro Area, CO
Posts: 22,405
Received 72 Likes on 56 Posts
10. Remove water pump (this may well be the hardest part of the job, depending on how long it's been there and whether anti-seize was used it can be a REAL bugger to get all of the bolts out)
Don't forget the possibility of snapping a hard-to-remove bolt, that can really ruin your day....
 
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
MTf100
1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
5
03-31-2016 01:15 PM
Juliannabond59
1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
45
05-10-2013 12:28 AM
FordmanShane
FE & FT Big Block V8 (332, 352, 360, 390, 406, 410, 427, 428)
23
08-21-2012 07:16 PM
joelfx4
1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
1
09-23-2010 02:56 PM
oldsw-31
1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
5
11-10-2005 02:04 AM



Quick Reply: 302 timing chain replacement



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 05:28 AM.