51 F1 won't start! Thought it was something simple now I'm about to rip my hair out.
#16
Hello Armedsvt,
The howling or siren noise reminds me a starter motor turning over without engaging the flywheel teeth. But I understand that that particular starter is gone now, so lets look at the next item.
You said that you checked the ground circuit and everything was good, but may I ask a few questions. Did your new or rebuilt starter come with a fresh coat of paint on it? Remember that the electrical path for the starter is the point where the starter physically contacts your engine block. Make sure all the paint has been removed from this area. Once this is done, connect your jumper cables to your battery. Now I think you have a 6 VDC positive ground system. If this is correct, you can connect one lead of your jumper cables from the positive batter post to the engine block. Next, connect the negative post of your battery to one end of your jumper cable. Now before you do anything else, make sure the ignition switch is off, the parking brake is set, and the transmission is in park or neutral. Now forcefully tap the other end of the jumper cable to the electrical post on the starter. If your circuit path through the engine block is good, the starter should begin to run. If this doesn't turn the starter motor over, your connection from the starter to the engine block is fowled by paint, rust, or oil. Once you can get your starter to turn over this way, check to see if it will start the normal way. If it doesn't start the normal turn the switch way, then the problem is in the ignition switch circuit and not the low voltage/high amperage current path.
If you have a negative grounded system, connect the negative side of the battery to the engine block and tap the positive end of the jumper cable to the starter post connection. The test results are the same. Good luck friend!
The howling or siren noise reminds me a starter motor turning over without engaging the flywheel teeth. But I understand that that particular starter is gone now, so lets look at the next item.
You said that you checked the ground circuit and everything was good, but may I ask a few questions. Did your new or rebuilt starter come with a fresh coat of paint on it? Remember that the electrical path for the starter is the point where the starter physically contacts your engine block. Make sure all the paint has been removed from this area. Once this is done, connect your jumper cables to your battery. Now I think you have a 6 VDC positive ground system. If this is correct, you can connect one lead of your jumper cables from the positive batter post to the engine block. Next, connect the negative post of your battery to one end of your jumper cable. Now before you do anything else, make sure the ignition switch is off, the parking brake is set, and the transmission is in park or neutral. Now forcefully tap the other end of the jumper cable to the electrical post on the starter. If your circuit path through the engine block is good, the starter should begin to run. If this doesn't turn the starter motor over, your connection from the starter to the engine block is fowled by paint, rust, or oil. Once you can get your starter to turn over this way, check to see if it will start the normal way. If it doesn't start the normal turn the switch way, then the problem is in the ignition switch circuit and not the low voltage/high amperage current path.
If you have a negative grounded system, connect the negative side of the battery to the engine block and tap the positive end of the jumper cable to the starter post connection. The test results are the same. Good luck friend!
#18
I was hoping that maybe the battery was not getting enough juice just by jumping it. I took the battery to autozone to get charged, the battery was charged and showing its good. Came home, put it in and crossed my fingers and again nothing.
Seems like something so simple. I'm sure I've gotten a few more gray hairs since this problem started.
I'll keep u guys posted.
Seems like something so simple. I'm sure I've gotten a few more gray hairs since this problem started.
I'll keep u guys posted.
#19
Hello Armedsvt,
The howling or siren noise reminds me a starter motor turning over without engaging the flywheel teeth. But I understand that that particular starter is gone now, so lets look at the next item.
You said that you checked the ground circuit and everything was good, but may I ask a few questions. Did your new or rebuilt starter come with a fresh coat of paint on it? Remember that the electrical path for the starter is the point where the starter physically contacts your engine block. Make sure all the paint has been removed from this area. Once this is done, connect your jumper cables to your battery. Now I think you have a 6 VDC positive ground system. If this is correct, you can connect one lead of your jumper cables from the positive batter post to the engine block. Next, connect the negative post of your battery to one end of your jumper cable. Now before you do anything else, make sure the ignition switch is off, the parking brake is set, and the transmission is in park or neutral. Now forcefully tap the other end of the jumper cable to the electrical post on the starter. If your circuit path through the engine block is good, the starter should begin to run. If this doesn't turn the starter motor over, your connection from the starter to the engine block is fowled by paint, rust, or oil. Once you can get your starter to turn over this way, check to see if it will start the normal way. If it doesn't start the normal turn the switch way, then the problem is in the ignition switch circuit and not the low voltage/high amperage current path.
If you have a negative grounded system, connect the negative side of the battery to the engine block and tap the positive end of the jumper cable to the starter post connection. The test results are the same. Good luck friend!
The howling or siren noise reminds me a starter motor turning over without engaging the flywheel teeth. But I understand that that particular starter is gone now, so lets look at the next item.
You said that you checked the ground circuit and everything was good, but may I ask a few questions. Did your new or rebuilt starter come with a fresh coat of paint on it? Remember that the electrical path for the starter is the point where the starter physically contacts your engine block. Make sure all the paint has been removed from this area. Once this is done, connect your jumper cables to your battery. Now I think you have a 6 VDC positive ground system. If this is correct, you can connect one lead of your jumper cables from the positive batter post to the engine block. Next, connect the negative post of your battery to one end of your jumper cable. Now before you do anything else, make sure the ignition switch is off, the parking brake is set, and the transmission is in park or neutral. Now forcefully tap the other end of the jumper cable to the electrical post on the starter. If your circuit path through the engine block is good, the starter should begin to run. If this doesn't turn the starter motor over, your connection from the starter to the engine block is fowled by paint, rust, or oil. Once you can get your starter to turn over this way, check to see if it will start the normal way. If it doesn't start the normal turn the switch way, then the problem is in the ignition switch circuit and not the low voltage/high amperage current path.
If you have a negative grounded system, connect the negative side of the battery to the engine block and tap the positive end of the jumper cable to the starter post connection. The test results are the same. Good luck friend!
#22
My 8N Ford tractor did the same thing and I did all the checks suggested. Finally I used a jumper wire from the starter case to the ground and it cranked over. I had the same high pitched squeal you mentioned. I had replaced the starter about 3 yrs. ago. How it lost it's ground is a mystery to me. The 8N starter and the F1 look identical. Good luck.
#23
#24
She's alive!!! Again.
Finally solved the mystery!
It ended up being the negative cable that goes from the battery to the top of the head where it was grounded. I had cleaned the ends of the cable a bunch of times but didn't clean the spot where the cable touches the head. I sanded the crap out of it and voila!
I let the truck run for about 10 mins then turned it off. Went inside to clean up, then ate dinner. After dinner I went to turn her on again to put her in the garage. Started the truck again, and a bunch of smoke came from the engine compartment. The same negative battery cable had melted and almost caught fire!
I went to AutoZone, bought a new cable, and finally problem fixed. I'm guessing that cable was old and caroted.
A huge THANK YOU to everybody!!!
I truly truly appreciate everybody's help!
Finally solved the mystery!
It ended up being the negative cable that goes from the battery to the top of the head where it was grounded. I had cleaned the ends of the cable a bunch of times but didn't clean the spot where the cable touches the head. I sanded the crap out of it and voila!
I let the truck run for about 10 mins then turned it off. Went inside to clean up, then ate dinner. After dinner I went to turn her on again to put her in the garage. Started the truck again, and a bunch of smoke came from the engine compartment. The same negative battery cable had melted and almost caught fire!
I went to AutoZone, bought a new cable, and finally problem fixed. I'm guessing that cable was old and caroted.
A huge THANK YOU to everybody!!!
I truly truly appreciate everybody's help!
#25
She's alive!!! Again.
Finally solved the mystery!
It ended up being the negative cable that goes from the battery to the top of the head where it was grounded. I had cleaned the ends of the cable a bunch of times but didn't clean the spot where the cable touches the head. I sanded the crap out of it and voila!
I let the truck run for about 10 mins then turned it off. Went inside to clean up, then ate dinner. After dinner I went to turn her on again to put her in the garage. Started the truck again, and a bunch of smoke came from the engine compartment. The same negative battery cable had melted and almost caught fire!
I went to AutoZone, bought a new cable, and finally problem fixed. I'm guessing that cable was old and caroted.
A huge THANK YOU to everybody!!!
I truly truly appreciate everybody's help!
Finally solved the mystery!
It ended up being the negative cable that goes from the battery to the top of the head where it was grounded. I had cleaned the ends of the cable a bunch of times but didn't clean the spot where the cable touches the head. I sanded the crap out of it and voila!
I let the truck run for about 10 mins then turned it off. Went inside to clean up, then ate dinner. After dinner I went to turn her on again to put her in the garage. Started the truck again, and a bunch of smoke came from the engine compartment. The same negative battery cable had melted and almost caught fire!
I went to AutoZone, bought a new cable, and finally problem fixed. I'm guessing that cable was old and caroted.
A huge THANK YOU to everybody!!!
I truly truly appreciate everybody's help!
Funny, if you look at the post by Ross directly ahead of your last, he suggests that's where your problem was... Way to go Ross!
#28
Started the truck again, and a bunch of smoke came from the engine compartment. The same negative battery cable had melted and almost caught fire!
Some heavy duty 6 volt size cable and you'll never have any more trouble with it.
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