I'm thinking the circuit board on my cluster is hashed. I made sure my wires were all plugged in and grounded properly, but I'm not getting any reading off either fuel tank or my temp gauge. Though the ALT idiot light comes on when I go to start the truck, so at least that one works. Am I right in thinking the board is done for? Or should I look elsewhere? If it is the board, how does a guy go about sticking a new one on?

For the cluster itself, I'm not too big on spending the bucks for a new one, so I'm going to refurbish the one I have. How can I clean up the yellowed plastics over the gauges? Also, is there any special way to remove the Speedo cable from the cluster, or just loosen a nut and slip it out?

Sorry for the barrage of questions guys, but this is my baby and I want her perfect! Haha

 

It could be either the ICVR (instrument cluster voltage regulator) or the circuit board. Yes, unscrew that nut to remove the cable. And unplug the wiring to the cluster.

 

Right on, thanks man!

The idiot lights would still work if the ICVR was toasted?

 

Yes, different circuit.

 

1970 F100/350 printed circuit boards are 1970 ONLY and there are two different types.

D0TZ-10K843-A .. Printed Circuit Board-Use with Oil & Amp GAUGES / Marked: D0TF-10C956-A / Obsolete ~ Available NOS

D0TZ-10K843-B .. Printed Circuit Board-Use with Oil & Amp WARNING (IDIOT) LAMPS / Marked: D0TF-10C956-B / Obsolete ~ Available NOS

 

Thanks for the info Bill, I'm really hoping I'm not going to have to hunt one down but that is going to be my favorite post on the whole forum if I do have to.

I pulled the cluster out to check out the board and pull the ICVR, and I found some interesting things





45 years of filth built up





The board doesn't look all mussed up though...?





Where the wires and such plug into the cluster, the left side is separating from the metal underneath. I wonder if it couldn't be stuck back down? Or just leave it and let the pressure from the clip on the plug keep it down?





This is my main concern. The little connecting strip over the ICVR is disconnected. It isn't damaged in the slightest, but it is pulled off. Could this also be somehow reconnected?





Nice and clean now though. The parents weren't entirely happy about it getting done on their dining room table, but it'll buff out hahaha


As for the ICVR, how does a guy go about pulling it off? I'm worried about hurting the board stuck to it

 

As long as the copper circuit is still in tact it should be fine. The top layer is just to cover and keep from grounding out.

As far as cleaning the window panel, you can try soap and water to see if it's just dirty. If it is sun faded, then you could try some lens polish.

 

Yep, all the copper is still intact. So neither of the separated parts need to be reconnected for things to work properly?

Also, I how do I pull the circuit board off the ICVR? I don't wanna just start ripping on it and ruin a perfectly good board

 

I used a small flat blade screw driver. It attaches like a 9 volt battery connector.

Mine was separated and I just used some tape to hold it together so it wouldn't get any worse.

 

Right on, thanks Greg, you da man!

It was nerve wracking to pull the little board thing off of the ICVR, but I got it without messing anything up! hahaha

 

The printed circuit board is available at LMC truck. Just got one for my '73

 

1970 is one year only, 1971/72 is different, 1973/75 is different again.

And...there are two different types of each. With oil & amp gauges or with oil & amp warning lamps.