Pre-Power Stroke Diesel (7.3L IDI & 6.9L) Diesel Topics Only

Help: truck won't start

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  #16  
Old 05-31-2015, 04:41 PM
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I can't get them to play.
 
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Old 05-31-2015, 04:46 PM
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Nvm I figured a way out.
 
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Old 05-31-2015, 08:37 PM
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Check your starter and check glow plugs for continuity check with dmm or a light. There's you tube videos of how. I had to replace all of my plugs because all the cranking killed the plugs and it was a bad starter. If its slow cranking and if you have like me a electronic fuel pump turn key on hit the Schrader valve on the fuel filter housing. If fuel comes out then that you are getting fuel. Sounds like IP pump is OK as well. But like my post I bet that this is what has happened to the truck. Check them out and see what happens
 
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Old 06-01-2015, 07:50 PM
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My starter sounds good. I could be wrong but t'a cranking strong. I do know I have a few glow plug issues and need to rewire them as well. But will the truck still not start in 90degree weather if the GP aren't 100%? I know these trucks are picky but I feel like they would still start in 90 degree heat.
 
  #20  
Old 06-02-2015, 04:23 AM
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it should . try plugging the block heater in for 2 hours and see if it will start.
glow plugs work until block temp reaches around 110 degrees.
 
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Old 06-02-2015, 04:39 AM
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But if you have a dmm you will know with the continuity test ... Ol means that they are bad and if they maintain .5 ohms give or take they will be good. It only takes a few seconds to disconnect the harness and check each one. Both my starter and plugs despite brand new went bad due to multiple long cranking. Or if you have the light that will tell you as well. You are trying to diag two separate systems at the same time. Due a test on the starter as well. It could be in spec but barely
 
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Old 06-02-2015, 04:42 AM
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Originally Posted by irhunter
No problem. In fact, I forgot about the high idle wire. So, there are two wires. The one going to the FSS has to always have power when the key is on.
3 wires, the FSS , the high idle solenoid, and the timing advance in the back.
But if he is getting fuel at the injector, more than likely he has power at the fuel shut off. Whats the story? Did it just not start one morning after using it regularly, did it die out on the road? has it been sitting for any length of time, did it act up after fueling it up? more info is needed. Just because you see fuel at the injector doesn't mean you have enough pressure to pop the injector, A common problem is the fuel line, rubber one that feeds the fuel pump has a tendency to crack and suck air, so you get some fuel but not enough for the pump to build pressure. check that.
 
  #23  
Old 06-02-2015, 04:45 AM
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Originally Posted by jamusfam
But if you have a dmm you will know with the continuity test ... Ol means that they are bad and if they maintain .5 ohms give or take they will be good. It only takes a few seconds to disconnect the harness and check each one. Both my starter and plugs despite brand new went bad due to multiple long cranking. Or if you have the light that will tell you as well. You are trying to diag two separate systems at the same time. Due a test on the starter as well. It could be in spec but barely
not true. i have seen glow plugs the "meter test" good, but do not light up.
 
  #24  
Old 06-02-2015, 07:25 AM
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If it rolls over well, the FSS has power and can be heard to trip, and there is fuel to the injectors...I would try some ether.

Follow the directions on the can and pull the glo-plug fuse before using the ether.

Roy
 
  #25  
Old 06-02-2015, 09:37 AM
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Originally Posted by David7.3
3 wires, the FSS , the high idle solenoid, and the timing advance in the back.
But if he is getting fuel at the injector, more than likely he has power at the fuel shut off. Whats the story? Did it just not start one morning after using it regularly, did it die out on the road? has it been sitting for any length of time, did it act up after fueling it up? more info is needed. Just because you see fuel at the injector doesn't mean you have enough pressure to pop the injector, A common problem is the fuel line, rubber one that feeds the fuel pump has a tendency to crack and suck air, so you get some fuel but not enough for the pump to build pressure. check that.
Story goes like this. It didn't start one morning after using regularly. I changed out the o rings and rubber lines with a fuel line return kit. That allowed it to run great for about a month then one day after work it started really rough but once it was going it was fine. The next morning it decided not to start at all. And it's been sitting ever since which is about 3 for 4 months now. It did occur about 35 miles after a fill up.
 
  #26  
Old 06-02-2015, 10:58 AM
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I had a similar problem after I installed a new fuel filter. It started and ran for about five seconds, then died. When I started it again, it cranked for a good 10-15 seconds before it fired.

I won't be of help like some of these guys are, but it sounds like a fuel problem to me. One of the previous posters suggested a fuel line developing a leak. I'd look into that, because if you can't maintain pressure in the fuel system then you're dead in the water.
 
  #27  
Old 06-11-2015, 05:22 PM
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I would make sure to check for fuel at an injector on the opposite side of #8 rail also.
 
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