I have a 2000 F450 with a 7.3. I am having problems starting it. Batteries are good, engine turns over strong. It has started a few times after a extremely long crank (so long I am sure I am burning out the starter). I have done some reading and think I am going in the right direction. I have replaced the CPS since it was cheap enough but that didn't make a difference. I have unplugged the ICP and it is very oily inside the connection. Does this mean the ICP should definitely be replaced? The truck will not start with the ICP unplugged. Should it be able to start with the ICP unplugged? Other items I plan on looking at at the IPR and possible the IDM box. Am I on the right track? Thanks.

 

It should start with the ICP unplugged as it just goes into "default" mode...and you are correct in that if its oily then it needs to be replaced. The membrane that separates the oil inside the head to the connectors is bad and that is what allows the oil in there. That will cause bad information to get back the PCM and can cause running issues.
I would also start with checking the output voltage of the Glow Plug relay, or if you have the glow plug module instead, check voltage to the individual glow plugs. If that checks out then I would Ohm out the glow plugs to be sure they are all in working order.

 

BillyBob has you on the right track...glow plug relay (GPR) and glow plugs first. If you have a GPR, then just jump the large posts with the key in the on position for about a minute or two (depending on the temperature), then try to start.

 

He some things you can do to help troubleshoot the issue:

HARD START/NO START DIAGNOSTICS

**NOTE: A hard start/ No start concern with EOT Temp. Below 60F perform step 10 first.

Tools: Fuel Filter Cap Removal Tool / Flash Light / Tools Flash Light / White Bond Paper / Stop or Wrist Watch w/Second Hand Sweep / DVOM

Step #1: Visual Engine/Chassis Inspection

a. Fuel

b. Oil

c. HPOP Oil Level (.5" - 1" from top is full)

d. Coolant

e. Electrical

f. Hoses Leaks Check

Tools: Flash Light

Fuel Oil Coolant Electrical Hoses Leaks Check

Tools: White Bond Paper

Step #2 Check for:

a. Contaminates

b. Correct Grade and Viscosity

c. Miles/Hours on oil

d. correct level.

Step #3 Intake/Exhaust Restriction

Tools: Flash Light

a. Inspect air filter and ducts

b. Exhaust system

c. Inspect exhaust back pressure device

Step #4 Sufficient Clean Fuel

Tools: Fuel Filter Cap Removal Tool

a. Check if the WATER IN FUEL lamp has been illuminated.

b. After verifying that there is fuel in the tank, drain a sample from fuel filter housing at key on.

c. Fuel pump should run for 20 seconds at key on

Step #5 Electric Fuel Pump Pressure

Tools: DVOM / Fuel Port Adaptor and Pressure Gauge 0-160 PSIG

a. Verify that the fuel pump has voltage and gnd. present at key on.

b. Measure fuel pressure at the Fuel Bowl Test Port key on.

c. Instrument Spec. 42-45 PSIG min at idle. / WOT Under Load =/> 42 PSIG.

* If pressure fails low, go to step 8c on the Performance side of this sheet to identify cause

Step #6 Perform KOEO On Demand Test

Tools: OBD-II On-Board Diagnostics, Phase 2 Vehicle Media Communications Unit (Scanner)

DTCs set during this test are current faults. Make a note of codes for reference. You ,ay wish to post them on FTE for further assistance.

Note: IDM DTCs displayed here could be current or historical faults A p1316 code indicates there are DTC's stored in the IDM. A suitable Scan Tool will be required to retrieve them. DO NOT Clear the p1316 DTC until they have been retrieved from the IDM.

Step #7 Retrieve Continuous Trouble Codes

Tools: OBD-II On-Board Diagnostics, Phase 2 Vehicle Media Communications Unit (Scanner)

DTCs retrieved during this test are historical faults. * Note: IDM DTCs are cleared when codes are cleared.

Step #8 KOEO Injector Electrical Self-Test

Tools: Bi-Directional Scan Tool.

a. All injectors will momentarily buzz, then individual injectors will buzz in sequence 1 through 8. IDM DTCs may be transmitted after
test is completed.

b. Note: IDM DTCs may be historical if not cleared prior to activating the "Buzz-Test".

Step #9 Data List Monitoring

Tools: OBD-II On-Board Diagnostics, Phase 2 Vehicle Media Communications Unit (Scanner)

1. Select the parameters indicated from the NGS parameter list and monitor while cranking engine.

Parameter/Spec:

a. V PWR / 10.5 volt min (The CMP may fall out of the PCM circuit if voltage falls below 10.5v).

b. RPM / 100-150 RPM minimum

c. ICP / 500 PSI or 3.4mPa min. The ICP should steadily climb during cranking. This indicates a healthy HPOP depending upon how high it climbs.

d. ICPv / 0.25v – 0.30v

e. FUEL PW / 1 mS to 6mS

f. MAP & EBP should be within .5 PSIG

* V PWR -If indicating a low voltage condition, check battery voltage, charging system or power and ground circuits to the PCM. GO TO
PINPOINT TEST A

* RPM -Low RPM could be an indication of starting/ charging system problems, RPM indicated with the engine cranking -could be CMP circuit
fault, check for Diagnostic Trouble Codes. GO TO PINPOINT TEST DG

*ICP -A minimum of 500 PSI (3.4 mPa) is required before the injectors are enabled. No or low oil in the reservoir, system leakage, injector O-Rings or faulty IPR could cause pressure loss.

*Go to section 4 step 9c in the PC/ED Manual for a detailed description on how to perform this test. Note: If no RPM signal is received, IPR duty cycle will default to 14% - Monitor when cranking.

*FUEL PW -Even though a 1 to 6 mS FUEL PW is shown, it’s possible the IDM did not receive the signal due to a CI or FDCS circuit fault or
internal IDM failure.

Step #10 Glow Plug System Operation

Tools: DVOM / Stop or Wrist Watch w/Second Hand Sweep

a. Glow Plug ON time is dependent on oil temperature and altitude. The Glow Plug relay comes on between 1 and 120 sec. and does not come
on at all if oil temp is above 131 F.

b. Verify that B+ is being supplied on the large BK/W wire going to the Glow Plug relay.

c. Install a voltmeter to the glow plug feed terminal (two brown wires or center terminal on the shunt) and the other (GP Side) Lug. When key is "ON" you should read approximately 11.5 vdc +/- .5 vdc when GP Relay is activated. A reading closer to system voltage may indicate a defective GP Solenoid or wiring issue.

d. Using a Bi-Directional Scan Tool and EOT PID’s, verify glow plug "on" time.

e. Turn key to run position, measure voltage ("on “time) (Dependent on oil temperature and altitude) Relay on time Spec. Measurement 1 to
120 seconds B +

f. Note: Wait to Start Lamp "on" time (1 -10 sec.) is independent from Glow Plug "on" time

g. Glow Plug Resistance

h. Remove both 9 pin connectors from valve covers • Measure each Glow Plug resistance to Bat. Ground. Measure engine harness resistance to
relay. .1 to 2 ohms

i. Glow Plug Connector to relay 0 to 1 ohms

FRONT
#2 #1
#4 #3
#6 #5
#8 #7

*Add 5 seconds to glow plug on time when above 7000 feet in altitude, but not to exceed 120 seconds.

Tom

 

plug it in for 3-4 hours and then try to start it. if it fires up the glow plug relay is most likely bad.

 

Thanks for all the replies. Thomas White that is some great info laid out there. Thank you very much.

I don't see a glow plug relay on this truck unless it is different that the ones I have seen in the past. Others have been horizontal across the top of the engine. I do have 2 solenoids mounted vertically on the engine (meaning the base of the solenoid is mounted to the engine) just to the left of the fuel filter housing. Could one be a glow plug relay?

I do have it plugged in now and will leave it plugged on overnight.

 

 

the front relay is the air intake heater relay, the rear relay is the glow plug relay.

 

Thanks. Will check it out again in the morning.

 

Plugged in over night, still no start. Jumped the glow plug relay, still no start. What puzzles me is why does it start if I can crank it for a real long time?

 

With your symptoms, I'd suggest you check ICP and IPR duty cycle while cranking.

 

An oily IPC sensor should be replaced. It may work again for a while if cleaned, but why limp along hobo style.

Just spitballin... next time it sits for a while pull the HPOP plug (see handy pic above) and peek in the reservoir. Oil should be within an inch of the top. If it's low or empty it will need to refill some before it can supply oil to fire the injectors, giving a long crank time.