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2002 f450 7.3 powerstroke turbo diesel crank no start

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Old 07-03-2015, 12:54 PM
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Question 2002 f450 7.3 powerstroke turbo diesel crank no start

It's hard as Hades to crank. Driving home the other day it literally wouldn't go over 30 and my boost was reading 2000. We changed the fuel pump and replaced a fitting going to the hose that had broke. It is still hard to crank and won't stay running. Even holding the pedal to the floor it only reads 2000 RPMs and still acts like its running out of gas. On the few times I have got the truck running it has exhaust smoke coming out the back and under the hood. I live in Anniston Alabama and diesel mechanics are few and far between and those that are around are booked up. I don't have the luxury of just driving another truck to work as that truck is my office, my work, my livelihood. My husband as pretty much self taught himself everything the last two years or so but this one has stumped him and my Brother that has been a mechanic for 25 years just on regular cars cause as we have found out diesels are an entirely different breed. Please help!!!
 
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Old 07-03-2015, 12:59 PM
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Here some things you can do to help troubleshoot the issue:

HARD START/NO START DIAGNOSTICS

**NOTE: A hard start/ No start concern with EOT Temp. Below 60F perform step 10 first. You may wish to plug the block heater in for a few hours and see if starting improves.

Tools: Fuel Filter Cap Removal Tool / Flash Light / Tools Flash Light / White Bond Paper / Stop or Wrist Watch w/Second Hand Sweep / DVOM

Step #1: Visual Engine/Chassis Inspection

a. Fuel

b. Oil

c. HPOP Oil Level (.5" - 1" from top is full)

d. Coolant

e. Electrical

f. Hoses Leaks Check

Tools: Flash Light

Fuel Oil Coolant Electrical Hoses Leaks Check

Tools: White Bond Paper

Step #2 Check for:

a. Contaminates

b. Correct Grade and Viscosity

c. Miles/Hours on oil

d. correct level.

Step #3 Intake/Exhaust Restriction

Tools: Flash Light

a. Inspect air filter and ducts

b. Exhaust system

c. Inspect exhaust back pressure device

Step #4 Sufficient Clean Fuel

Tools: Fuel Filter Cap Removal Tool

a. Check if the WATER IN FUEL lamp has been illuminated.

b. After verifying that there is fuel in the tank, drain a sample from fuel filter housing at key on.

c. Fuel pump should run for 20 seconds at key on

Step #5 Electric Fuel Pump Pressure

Tools: DVOM / Fuel Port Adaptor and Pressure Gauge 0-160 PSIG

a. Verify that the fuel pump has voltage and gnd. present at key on.

b. Measure fuel pressure at the Fuel Bowl Test Port key on.

c. Instrument Spec. 42-45 PSIG min at idle. / WOT Under Load =/> 42 PSIG.

* If pressure fails low, go to step 8c on the Performance side of this sheet to identify cause

Step #6 Perform KOEO On Demand Test

Tools: OBD-II On-Board Diagnostics, Phase 2 Vehicle Media Communications Unit (Scanner)

DTCs set during this test are current faults. Make a note of codes for reference. You, may wish to post them on FTE for further assistance.

Note: IDM DTCs displayed here could be current or historical faults a p1316 code indicates there are DTC's stored in the IDM. A suitable Scan Tool will be required to retrieve them. DO NOT Clear the p1316 DTC until they have been retrieved from the IDM.

Step #7 Retrieve Continuous Trouble Codes

Tools: OBD-II On-Board Diagnostics, Phase 2 Vehicle Media Communications Unit (Scanner)

DTCs retrieved during this test are historical faults. * Note: IDM DTCs are cleared when codes are cleared.

Step #8 KOEO Injector Electrical Self-Test

Tools: Bi-Directional Scan Tool.

a. All injectors will momentarily buzz, then individual injectors will buzz in sequence 1 through 8. IDM DTCs may be transmitted after test is completed.

b. Note: IDM DTCs may be historical if not cleared prior to activating the "Buzz-Test".

Step #9 Data List Monitoring

Tools: OBD-II On-Board Diagnostics, Phase 2 Vehicle Media Communications Unit (Scanner)

1. Select the parameters indicated from the NGS parameter list and monitor while cranking engine.

Parameter/Spec:

a. V PWR / 10.5 volt min (The CMP may fall out of the PCM circuit if voltage falls below 10.5v).

b. RPM / 100-150 RPM minimum

c. ICP / 500 PSI or 3.4mPa min. The ICP should steadily climb during cranking. This indicates a healthy HPOP depending upon how high it climbs.

d. ICPv / 0.25v – 0.30v

e. FUEL PW / 1 mS to 6mS

f. MAP & EBP should be within .5 PSIG

* V PWR -If indicating a low voltage condition, check battery voltage, charging system or power and ground circuits to the PCM. GO TO
PINPOINT TEST A

* RPM -Low RPM could be an indication of starting/ charging system problems, RPM indicated with the engine cranking -could be CMP circuit fault, check for Diagnostic Trouble Codes. GO TO PINPOINT TEST DG

*ICP -A minimum of 500 PSI (3.4 mPa) is required before the injectors are enabled. No or low oil in the reservoir, system leakage, injector O-Rings or faulty IPR could cause pressure loss.

*Go to section 4 step 9c in the PC/ED Manual for a detailed description on how to perform this test. Note: If no RPM signal is received, IPR duty cycle will default to 14% - Monitor when cranking.

*FUEL PW -Even though a 1 to 6 mS FUEL PW is shown, it’s possible the IDM did not receive the signal due to a CI or FDCS circuit fault or
Internal IDM failure.

Step #10 Glow Plug System Operation

Tools: DVOM / Stop or Wrist Watch w/Second Hand Sweep

a. Glow Plug ON time is dependent on oil temperature and altitude. The Glow Plug relay comes on between 1 and 120 sec. and does not come on at all if oil temp is above 131 F.

b. Verify that B+ is being supplied on the large BK/W wire going to the Glow Plug relay.

c. Attach voltmeter leads (I like Aligator Clips) to the glow plug feed terminal (two brown wires or center terminal on the shunt) and the other (GP Side) Lug. When key is "ON" you should read approximately 11.5 vdc +/- .5 vdc when GP Relay is activated. A reading closer to system voltage may indicate a defective GP Solenoid or wiring issue.

d. Using a Bi-Directional Scan Tool and EOT PID’s, verify glow plug "on" time.

e. Turn key to run position, measure voltage ("on “time) (Dependent on oil temperature and altitude) Relay on time Spec. Measurement 1 to
120 seconds B +

f. Note: Wait to Start Lamp "on" time (1 -10 sec.) is independent from Glow Plug "on" time

g. Glow Plug Resistance

h. Remove both 9 pin connectors from valve covers • Measure each Glow Plug resistance to Bat. Ground. Measure engine harness resistance to relay. .1 to 2 ohms

i. Glow Plug Connector to relay 0 to 1 ohms

FRONT
#2 #1
#4 #3
#6 #5
#8 #7

*Add 5 seconds to glow plug on time when above 7000 feet in altitude, but not to exceed 120 seconds.

Tom
 
  #3  
Old 07-05-2015, 08:01 PM
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Got it to crank, with ether. Could hold it at 2000 rpm but still dies after 10-15 seconds regardless of holding the pedal to the floor. Ideas??
 
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Old 07-06-2015, 06:12 AM
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First idea-DON'T use ether. These trucks have been known to have catastrophic failures due to using ether.

If you are having trouble maintaining idle like you describe, you need to get a fuel pressure gauge on it first. There are ports you can tap into on the back of the fuel bowl. The list that Tom posted above is pretty comprehensive. If your brother is a mechanic, he shouldn't be too intimdated by it. Follow those steps and see where they lead you.
 
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Old 07-06-2015, 06:29 AM
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That last link in my signature will be a lot of help. Did the SES light fire up? What happens if you start the truck with the ICP disconnected from the cable? Boost 2000? Typo?


 
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Old 07-13-2015, 08:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Cmfnr450
It's hard as Hades to crank. Driving home the other day it literally wouldn't go over 30 and my boost was reading 2000. We changed the fuel pump and replaced a fitting going to the hose that had broke. It is still hard to crank and won't stay running. Even holding the pedal to the floor it only reads 2000 RPMs and still acts like its running out of gas. On the few times I have got the truck running it has exhaust smoke coming out the back and under the hood. I live in Anniston Alabama and diesel mechanics are few and far between and those that are around are booked up. I don't have the luxury of just driving another truck to work as that truck is my office, my work, my livelihood. My husband as pretty much self taught himself everything the last two years or so but this one has stumped him and my Brother that has been a mechanic for 25 years just on regular cars cause as we have found out diesels are an entirely different breed. Please help!!!

UPDATE!!
Was in the shop last week. Got it back Friday after having fuel pump replaced...cam shaft position sensor replaced...the hpop and the ipr valve replaced and an oil change done...ran great for six hours...now as no power...it will crank (have to lay a rag with gas over the breather...don't want to use ether anymore) and idle like nothing is wrong...but it in gear and go about 1/4 mile and it looses all power...put it in neutral to keep it from dying (had to get it back to the shop today)...so it's no longer a crank no start...it just won't hold fuel pressure...now they are saying injectors....
 
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Old 07-13-2015, 10:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Cmfnr450
UPDATE!!
Was in the shop last week. Got it back Friday after having fuel pump replaced...cam shaft position sensor replaced...the hpop and the ipr valve replaced and an oil change done...ran great for six hours...now as no power...it will crank (have to lay a rag with gas over the breather...don't want to use ether anymore) and idle like nothing is wrong...but it in gear and go about 1/4 mile and it looses all power...put it in neutral to keep it from dying (had to get it back to the shop today)...so it's no longer a crank no start...it just won't hold fuel pressure...now they are saying injectors....
I don't see where the ICP was checked or replaced. Did you try it with the ICP unplugged as Tugly suggested? ? You could have an injector O-Ring issue or loosing one Bank due to a IDM Circuit Issue.

Keep us updated.

Tom
 
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