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Extremely frustrated: No start, no crank, no power condition with full battery.

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Old 04-19-2015, 02:45 PM
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Extremely frustrated: No start, no crank, no power condition with full battery.

So I'm to the point of throwing wrenches through the wall, and my frustration is getting the best of me. My ego is wounded and I'm needing help, please.

Scenario: '96 F-250 2x4, 5.8 gas, automatic, extended cab long bed 150K+miles, well cared for. Two weeks ago I stopped at the store for about 20 minutes and returned to the truck and it wouldn't start.

Symptoms: Open door and dome light comes on. Insert key with door open and open door bell dings. Turn key to ON position and I hear fuel pump kick on, guages 'flicker', and lights will work.

When I turn the key to START, all electric devices stop working and everything is unresponsive. No lights, no dome lights, no bell, no guages, nothing. Yet, battery is fully charged and I have power to the fuse box and all fuses test good.

If I let it set for a while, then I can turn on lights, etc, but it still won't kick over and the symptoms repeat when I turn the key to START.

OBD says 654 - shift lever is not in park(are you kidding me?)...

Any suggestions? Many thanks in advence!
 

Last edited by phizkig; 04-19-2015 at 02:46 PM. Reason: Missed a symptom
  #2  
Old 04-19-2015, 02:52 PM
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Bad connection will cause this. Ive seen dirty connection at the battery post do it several times. Clean those and the one at the starter relay from battery positive connection where everything gets power from. After not that then check the neg cable to block.
 
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Old 04-19-2015, 03:38 PM
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I agree. Sounds like a bad ground. Check your engine to frame ground also. If you have fusibk links in your cables check those also. The 654 code could be a worn selector sensor. Try pulling up on shifter when trying to start.
 
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Old 04-19-2015, 04:00 PM
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This has a good approach, let us know what you find.

http://www.aa1car.com/library/us1296.htm
 
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Old 04-19-2015, 04:40 PM
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I had the same thing happen to me last week. It was simply the battery died. It had 12volts, and a battery charger would just kick over into float charging. Battery had volts but no amps left to do anything other than turn on the lights and buzzers. Now days it seem batteries die like that quite often. If the battery is really good, then it is the cables that have gone bad or the connections at either end are corroded. If you clean the cables, don't use dielectric grease when you put them back together, because that is an insulator. It works best to cover the connection after it has been put back together to keep out moisture, just not on the metal that makes the actual connection.
 
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Old 04-19-2015, 04:58 PM
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If the engine was just running or you tried to charge the battery it will hold a surface charge for sometime showing good voltage but no current. you need a volt meter or something of the sort to see where and if your loosing power current flow or what ever is wrong. did you try moving the selector lever in to neutral and see if it cranks over.
 
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Old 04-19-2015, 06:09 PM
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With mine, I simply lift up on the wheel when t his happens: I think my switch may be loose, and gets out of proper alignment... Just haven't felt like getting under the dash yet to cheeck it out. I do know I need new tilt bushings. I seem to remember doing that job on my '88(no. 2)

Scott
 
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Old 04-20-2015, 08:55 PM
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We all need a little humility (or a lot sometimes)

So, it turns out that despite all the other troubleshooting I did previously, the obvious got me once again. Man, I can't believe I missed it.

Turned out to be faulty battery cable ends. Although I cleaned the contact point on the terminals and tightened the bolts in the beginning, I failed to check the actual cable connection to the lead fitting. The battery cable ends were a bolt on style, and I had previously coated them in grease to prevent oxidation. Unfortunately I hadn't completely covered them and the actual connection under the strap was corroded. Cleaned it and it works...

Yeah, I guess I'm not so hot after all, huh? LOL!! Thank you so much, I appreciate the help seeing the problem.
 
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Old 04-20-2015, 09:02 PM
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Hey we all get stumped by simple things sometimes. Live and learn. At least it was a simple easy inexpensive fix.
 
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Old 04-20-2015, 09:09 PM
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Originally Posted by phizkig
So, it turns out that despite all the other troubleshooting I did previously, the obvious got me once again. Man, I can't believe I missed it.

Turned out to be faulty battery cable ends. Although I cleaned the contact point on the terminals and tightened the bolts in the beginning, I failed to check the actual cable connection to the lead fitting. The battery cable ends were a bolt on style, and I had previously coated them in grease to prevent oxidation. Unfortunately I hadn't completely covered them and the actual connection under the strap was corroded. Cleaned it and it works...

Yeah, I guess I'm not so hot after all, huh? LOL!! Thank you so much, I appreciate the help seeing the problem.

Those cable ends are the very worst idea anyone EVER came up with... I wish I had a dollar for every bad one I've seen, I could go on a "around the world cruise".....
 
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Old 04-20-2015, 09:25 PM
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Betcha she spins nice now!
 
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Old 04-21-2015, 05:31 AM
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I've seen packaging on those replacement cable ends saying they are for temporary use or somet hing to that effect.
 
  #13  
Old 04-21-2015, 07:21 AM
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That happened to my Bronco and I was stumped.

There was a garage across the street so with my tail between my legs, I asked one of the mechanics and he said "check your battery cables". I knew he was just trying to get rid of me... That is until I checked my battery cables and there was built-up corrosion underneath!

It happens to all of us!
And you learned a bit in the process (AND it was a cheap fix!)
 
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