1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

Help Diagnose Temp Gauge

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #16  
Old 04-14-2015, 05:48 PM
InfantryCPT's Avatar
InfantryCPT
InfantryCPT is offline
Senior User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Stockdale, Tejas
Posts: 383
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
another thing my daughter brought up, is the voltmeter was jumpy, sure enough just checked it and it is real twitchy (could that be from the ICVR as well)
 
  #17  
Old 04-14-2015, 05:51 PM
Gary Lewis's Avatar
Gary Lewis
Gary Lewis is offline
Posting Legend
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Northeast, OK
Posts: 32,866
Likes: 0
Received 26 Likes on 24 Posts
Aluminum is a good conductor of electricity, but the sensor needs to ground to it. You can check by grounding the sensor to the manifold and see if the gauge changes.
 
  #18  
Old 04-14-2015, 05:52 PM
Gary Lewis's Avatar
Gary Lewis
Gary Lewis is offline
Posting Legend
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Northeast, OK
Posts: 32,866
Likes: 0
Received 26 Likes on 24 Posts
Originally Posted by InfantryCPT
another thing my daughter brought up, is the voltmeter was jumpy, sure enough just checked it and it is real twitchy (could that be from the ICVR as well)
If you are talking about the stock meter, it is an ammeter not a volt meter. And if it is jumping you have a problem, Houston. Your alternator may be going out.

Forgot - the ICVR has nothing to do with the ammeter. Only the temp gauge, oil pressure gauge, and fuel gauge.
 
  #19  
Old 04-14-2015, 05:54 PM
InfantryCPT's Avatar
InfantryCPT
InfantryCPT is offline
Senior User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Stockdale, Tejas
Posts: 383
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by Gary Lewis
Aluminum is a good conductor of electricity, but the sensor needs to ground to it. You can check by grounding the sensor to the manifold and see if the gauge changes.
gotcha, gonna go try it out.
 
  #20  
Old 04-14-2015, 06:49 PM
InfantryCPT's Avatar
InfantryCPT
InfantryCPT is offline
Senior User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Stockdale, Tejas
Posts: 383
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Man do i feel stupid, I think today I posted, check the basics and recheck, So went and pulled the temp sensor. Yeah it was junk, I have a 83 CJ with a hopped up V8 in it, well I replaced that temp sensor, not this one. (Old age is catching up .... and quick) So anyways, 12 bucks later and minimal teflon, and its riding right on the R. Man Gary I sure am sorry to drag you through this but I dang sure do appreciate the help. And I learned a lot, especially about the voltage regulator.

Thanks for keeping me from yanking out the dash ...again
 
  #21  
Old 04-14-2015, 06:56 PM
Gary Lewis's Avatar
Gary Lewis
Gary Lewis is offline
Posting Legend
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Northeast, OK
Posts: 32,866
Likes: 0
Received 26 Likes on 24 Posts
Glad you got it fixed. And no worries about going through it. I'm happy to help - especially someone who does a good job of explaining.

Now, on to the alternator. The ammeters on these trucks are pretty abysmal. In fact, I've had the one for Dad's truck converted to a volt meter. Anyway, if your ammeter is jumping then you have a problem because it is really unusual for them to move at all, much less jump.

I'd put a volt meter on it and find out if the voltage is jumping just like the gauge. I'm pretty sure it is, but you have to check.
 
  #22  
Old 04-14-2015, 08:14 PM
InfantryCPT's Avatar
InfantryCPT
InfantryCPT is offline
Senior User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Stockdale, Tejas
Posts: 383
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
12.67V prior to start, then 14.14V started at idle, the previous gauge didnt jump around, may just swap that out this weekend
 
  #23  
Old 04-14-2015, 09:16 PM
Gary Lewis's Avatar
Gary Lewis
Gary Lewis is offline
Posting Legend
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Northeast, OK
Posts: 32,866
Likes: 0
Received 26 Likes on 24 Posts
12.67 is about fully charged, so you haven't been running w/o an alternator. And 14.14 is pretty good at idle 'cause these alternators don't throw much there. So, I think you are right - the ammeter is bad. Maybe it has a bad connection some place.
 
  #24  
Old 04-15-2015, 06:40 AM
InfantryCPT's Avatar
InfantryCPT
InfantryCPT is offline
Senior User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Stockdale, Tejas
Posts: 383
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by Gary Lewis
Maybe it has a bad connection some place.

I'll check the connections at the Alternator first tonight, I went out and watched it for a second last night, and the ammeter would peg (to the right) when revved, I sure don't remember that happening with the old cluster. At this point I would bet it is the gauge, but will eliminate anything I can prior to pulling and replacing the "newer" gauge for the old.


Thanks again. Once more down the rabbit hole
 
  #25  
Old 04-15-2015, 07:37 AM
Gary Lewis's Avatar
Gary Lewis
Gary Lewis is offline
Posting Legend
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Northeast, OK
Posts: 32,866
Likes: 0
Received 26 Likes on 24 Posts
Actually, it sounds like this one might be working correctly and the old one didn't, although pegging might be a bit much. But, if you think about it, the voltage on the battery will be down somewhat right after starting due to the current pulled from it during starting. So the alternator should be re-charging the battery right after starting. However, since these alternators don't put out much at idle, if you start it and then let it idle the needle should stay in the middle. But if you then rev it the alternator should throw up to maybe 60 amps for a bit, which would essentially peg the ammeter.

I'd drive it with that ammeter for several days and watch it. Perhaps you now have a working unit - which would be one of the very few in captivity. Anyway, it should gradually go back to the center after starting as the battery gets fully charged.
 
  #26  
Old 04-15-2015, 07:54 AM
InfantryCPT's Avatar
InfantryCPT
InfantryCPT is offline
Senior User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Stockdale, Tejas
Posts: 383
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Will do, I wasn't exactly looking forward to pulling the cluster anyway. and at idle it does float (albeit erratically) around the center. And for what its worth the PO did install a brand new alternator (remanned), right before I bought it.


I'll get an update, posted in a week or so, I'm just tickled pink to have the rest of the gauges working correctly.


Thanks Again
 
  #27  
Old 04-15-2015, 08:15 AM
Gary Lewis's Avatar
Gary Lewis
Gary Lewis is offline
Posting Legend
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Northeast, OK
Posts: 32,866
Likes: 0
Received 26 Likes on 24 Posts
It sounds like you have a really sensitive ammeter, and that it is working. That's almost unheard of on these trucks. Also, it appears that the new alternator, and hopefully regulator, is working well. Drive it and enjoy.
 
  #28  
Old 04-15-2015, 08:34 AM
ctubutis's Avatar
ctubutis
ctubutis is offline
Moderator
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Denver Metro Area, CO
Posts: 22,405
Received 72 Likes on 56 Posts
I have a fully-functioning factory ammeter that works great; I even made a video of it once but never uploaded it as I got distracted.

Point being, all his negative talk about the things - which is based on a sample size of 0.0000002% of the population - is unfounded in my mind.
 
  #29  
Old 04-15-2015, 08:40 AM
Gary Lewis's Avatar
Gary Lewis
Gary Lewis is offline
Posting Legend
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Northeast, OK
Posts: 32,866
Likes: 0
Received 26 Likes on 24 Posts
Go take a poll. Looks like 50% of InfantryCPT's have been bad. But I've owned 3 of these trucks that were drivable and none had an ammeter that did more than wiggle slightly.
 
  #30  
Old 04-15-2015, 01:19 PM
Ken Blythen's Avatar
Ken Blythen
Ken Blythen is offline
Cargo Master
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 2,499
Received 51 Likes on 44 Posts
Originally Posted by ctubutis
I have a fully-functioning factory ammeter that works great
x2

Gotta be lucky sometimes
 
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Rusty_S
Electrical Systems/Wiring
2
03-29-2013 07:02 PM
targanr110
Explorer, Sport Trac, Mountaineer & Aviator
5
04-29-2007 10:27 AM
MRStace84
1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
3
06-13-2005 08:45 PM
97expy5_4
Electrical Systems/Wiring
2
09-15-2004 02:08 PM



Quick Reply: Help Diagnose Temp Gauge



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 11:18 PM.