Thanks! The entire kit consists of evap and 3 speed blower, expansion valve, compressor, compressor bracket, dryer, pressure switch, condenser and mounting hardware, hoses and fittings, and drain tubing. Also came with grommets for passing through the firewall.

 

Thanks for the compliment! The kit was $998 door to door. AC only. No heat or defrost.

 

Ok fellas, ill snap some pics of the install. I'm going to start on it Sunday but it may take me a while to finish. I dont have a ton of free time these days. Anyone have any suggestions?

 

Most r-12 systems were aftermarket that use just a slip on hose to a barb end with a hose clamp. And with the high side getting up 175-200 psi and over a few yrs. it did not take long for the r-12 the leak out of the high pressure hoses where the hose clamps become loose if the hose clamps are not kept tight. Over time the hoses become compressed from the clamps.

Just like a radiator hose the clamp may start a little leaking coolant if you don't retighten the clamps ever so often..

I've found they leak down to about 15psi and if it has a safety low psi switch they won't engage the compressor. And most would work if serviced.

A new dryer and evac. add a few oz. of correct mineral compressor oil
re-charge with r-12 Freon. Replace hoses double wall new hoses if needed. I'd think it would be good to go..

With r134a a electric push or pull fan is needed to over come stop & go traffic blowing Warn & cool is the biggest problem. This is why all newer vehicle have electric fans..

Shops don't want to mess with r-12 since it's not the common Freon being used. It's not against the law to have it installed.

The fed's know a do it yourselfer installing it, as they know they won't have the r-12 recover from a system. Just let it out when Al Gore not watching.

Two shops I've checked with want about $750-$850 to covert it over to r134a Freon.

With any change of Freon systems needs to be flushed all the old r-12 mineral oil out add a new dryer correct type of oil 6-8oz. evac. leak test charge about 28-34oz Freon in general...

Orich

 

I wonder if there is a spot on the compressor mounting bracket on the passenger's side of the W/P pulley to mount an idler pulley. That way the A/C belt would go AROUND the W/P pulley. I.E. belt would run from crank pulley, to idler pulley, to compressor, and back down to crank.

 

the bracket I have mounts to the passenger side. I didn't want to mess with power steering. What would be the advantage of this?

 

Not having to worry about an extra sheave in the water pump pulley. The belt won't go straight from the crank to the compressor and then back. The W/P pulley is in the way. So there has to be a spot in a W/P pulley OR a belt idler by it so the belt will go around the W/P. A smaller diameter W/P pulley would be nice to spin the W/P faster now that you will have A/C though.

 

I was aware of the need for the double wp pulley but did not think about the smaller pulley. Good idea! Is there such thing as a smaller pull for the wp and a "standard" sized pulley for the compressor? Any down side turning the compressor faster with a smaller pulley? Would it increase pressure in the system? Probably some horrible Newby questions but gotta learn somewhere.

 

The factory vehicle car's in the 60's with AC have the 6.5/8 water pump pulley and equipped with a fan clutches have no problems with small OD Pullies. I'm still running the 6.5/8 with a clutch fan. The York compressor had big ol pulley on them like 10" on some I've seen. Where as the Sanden is like 6.5" or so and will spin upwards of 6k as, I've read.

Where as the OEM 70'S Trucks with 360/390 come with like a 7.1/4 water pump pulley.
'
The Sanden 507 & 508 are about the best for aftermarket add ons for a standard truck cabs. And the SD 508 is 134a friendly.

Orich

 

Changing the size of the W/P pulley will not change the speed of the compressor. The crank pulley is the drive pulley. To look up a smaller w/p pulley I would need an application. Since I know 302's didn't come in 1967 Bumps I know that is a transplant. What did that 302 come out of? AKA that will tell me what pulleys are on it now.

 

Got it. The motor is out of an 86 stang.

 

Sometimes it will preeze your fingers off and other it will roast you. We have the biggest temperature range out of any of the states.

 

If the engine is out of an '86 Mustang, it would have originally been a roller cammed 5.0L EFI engine. ('86 was the first year for fuel injection in the Mustangs and for the 5.0L Mercury Capri --'86 was also the last year of production for the Capri).

The engine would have originally had a serpentine pulley system. The original serpentine crank pulley would have had an O.D. of 6-1/8".

If there are V-belt pulleys on it now, it's anybody's guess what they came off of.

 

Yeah they are all v belt. It is a roller cam motor. Runs real nice!

 

Started pecking away at it today. Removed the heater box and cut a hole in the firewall for the hoses and valve. Temporarily mounted the evaporator unit.