I'm trying to make a decision regarding the dpf and egr. My prior truck was a 08 f250 xl 6.4 ext cab rwd long bed (purchased in Dallas for $9400) that I dpf deleted, used an sct tuner, ran it in a towing tune (wasn't sure about using the tow/haul button so I still used it). I hadn't gotten to the egr block yet, so the egr was still stock. I'm not sure who provided the tune, I bought the tuner from a local diesel performance shop, with specific instructions for flashing that didn't have any identifying information about who did the programming. I believe the tuner really messed with my transmission. I use my truck for towing between 3k-10k lbs consistently. (I have a small moving company and use a 24 ft enclosed cargo trailer). In January I was towing a load and my transmission had serious problems, massive trans fluid leaks. I had to get it replaced at the dealer in St Louis ($4500) to maintain my schedule and business. I was only at 120,000 miles on my f250 truck.

I have an 08 F350 with the 6.4L engine. I just purchased it from a dealer in the Chicago area. My prior truck was wrecked and I upgraded significantly.

My new 08 F350 6.4 XL 4WD Crew cab, is a former U.S. Forestry services truck from New Mexico, has 105k miles, great basic truck, just ugly mint green paint job. But I got it for $16,250 (only had to spend $500 more out the door than what insurance gave me). I'm hesitant to mess with it beyond stock, because of the problems with my prior truck. But A couple weeks ago when it was really cold (I live in Chicago, it was like 15-20 degrees in the morning) the truck was blowing an insane amount of smoke, couldn't get it over 20 mph. Running very rough, I drove it around the block and seriously fogged up the neighborhood for a little bit trying to warm it up so I could use it on a move job. It felt like it was burning inefficiently, and the egr was pulling in some nasty exhaust, contributing to the problem, and why I couldn't get up to speed. I waited a few hours, outside air temp increased, and let the truck idle and warm up more, and then it was running fine/normal.

I obviously don't like the DPF and EGR system, better for the air supposedly but bad for my wallet and truck. I've spent lots of hours on this site and others trying to figure out a solution. I'm really gun shy of using a tuner due to the transmission issues. The H&S is not looking like a great option due to the company being shut down. I think I could download a good tune from gearhead for my sct as an option but not sure if I should get a better monitor for engine temps, trans temps, egt's etc. I will be using the truck in a couple weeks to take a load out to Los Angeles and back. I recognize the Cal DOT could be an issue, but I'm comfortable with the risk at this point.

Do the benefits of DPF and EGR delete matter when weighed against the transmission risks, and dealer issues? The EPA/Feds have seemed to really limit the market for the workarounds out there. Pretty much my options when I'm on the road are Ford Dealers for repairs etc, I'm at the mercy of whatever local market I'm in when I have a breakdown, and need to get back up and running fast. Dealers provide a better than even chance of quality work, and offer fast turnaround. I pay a premium in cost but that's the trade off. Most of the ones I encountered didn't mind working on my deleted truck as is.

I'm asking for opinions, I just want to make an educated decision as to the best solution. I could care less about racing/power etc, I just need a quality work/towing truck that can run for a while. Fuel economy is nice, and has value, but I only really saw a 1-2 mpg increase when I deleted on my other truck. Ideally if I could delete the dpf and egr and stay stock without a tuner messing up the transmission that would be great, but I'm pretty sure I need to reprogram when I do the dpf/egr delete.

I own 2 SCT 7015, one that doesn't have a dpf tune and one that has a dpf tune (but I don't know who wrote it). Thanks for the help and this is the best Ford trucks resource out there.

 

Do just the DPF delete, and get a DPF-R from Gearbox. No real tuning to the truck other than DPF delete.

There is an option for a small tuner setup from them as well. Edge CTS for gauges or the like.

 

(GBZ-EF1.0-Plus Tune)GBZ-ELECTRON-Ford-6.4L-Model-1.0-Plus Tune

(GBZ-EF1.0-FD40)GBZ-ELECTRON-Ford-6.4L-Model-1.0-FD40


They have one with a tune and one without a tune. Do you know the difference regarding the one labeled fd40?

 

As far as I know, tune or not.

 

I run Gearhead tunes and love them. Trans tuning is amazing...nice firm crisp shifts and load based shifting.
As far as a monitor I use Scan gauge 2 and monitor my trans, egt, eot and ect temps. It's not a fancy monitor by any means but it does what i need it to do.
As far as your trans issues with being tuned vs stock trans. Stock trans tuning is more for comfort and nice smooth shifts. However comfort comes at a cost with regards to transmission life. Smooth shifts mean clutch plates slip longer when each gear engages, thus reducing their life span. A tuned transmission however with nice crisp and firm shifts reduces or eliminates much of the slippage in the trans clutches. So technically with a properly tuned transmission your trans should last longer then it would in stock form.
Another thing with the trans on these trucks is to upgrade the direct clutch solenoid. The stock one doesn't allow enough fluid to flow through to apply the clutches fast enough, esp when the fluid is cold. I put the modified solenoid in my truck and now cold or hot that shift is crisp and clean.

 

What type of tuner did you use to get the gearhead tune onto your truck? And what specific type of tune did you get?

 

I have an H&S tuner...but you can also use SCT to load his tunes I believe, although not sure which SCT models you can do this with. For H&S Gearhead tunes come in a package and then you select which tunes you want to load....I run on the tow level with I believe the eco trans tune.

Sorry was just on the Gearhead site...I run the street tune for daily driving and some lighter towing...for heavy towing I return to the lowest or the Tow tune.

 

ensure you are using something to monitor your engine vitials when tuning.


I would run in stock power since you are towing so much myself.


Still need to stick with 5K oil changes to ensure good lubrication of the upper end components.

 

I run the DPF-R from gear box-z on my delete package and have zero transmission issues. To my knowledge all the tuner does is shut off the emissions junk and leaves everything else stock. I will say it does not shut all off, I found you need two 1000 ohm resistors in place of the throttle valve to prevent a derating error code and also the EGR temp sensor needs to be plugged in and set in the engine bay to see some form of heat. Other wise it trips a check engine light all the time. That was the only part I was disappointed about other wise I love my setup and great thing was the tuner, the delete pipe and new intake elbow/egr delete was less than $700 dollars.

For engine monitoring I bought a 20 dollar app for my Ipad and a 60 dollar wireless plug in for the OBD2 connector and I can see all the engine data I want.

Jeff

 

I would only look at this product if you are looking to remove the DPF and ERG and not tune the engine.

IMO, there tuning is very generic and sub-par as a power adder, but as a DPF delete only with stock tuning its a good product.

 

IF you go with gear head tunes or another reputable company there should be no transmission issue.

I would recommend gearhead if you already have a SCT, they have good tunes and a good concept that a clean tune is a good tune.

I personally run Spartan diesel tuning. My personal preference is with there tuning. Matt Gouge the owner dedicated a tremendous amount of time tuning not just the engine but the trans as well. They where the first to offer tuning for the 6.4 and have paved the way for everyone else you see out there. My truck has 120,000 miles running a 210 HP towing tune. I tow around 28,000 to 33,000 GVW at least three times a week and still have the original trans. I have replaced the torque converter due to the clutches being wore out at around 90,000 miles.

I would absolutely stay away from ANY edge products for the 6.4. Out of all the tuners out there they have had the most issues regarding transmission issues.

With good tuning if you don't treat the truck like a race truck you should have no trans issues providing you have a good maintenance plan in place.

Now for the DPF/EGR question. Removing the Dpf is really not a big deal. IF you need to smog or bring the truck in for repairs its relative easy to put back on the truck. Now as far as warranty there are not many of these trucks under warranty unless you have the extended ESP. Doing anything to the truck with respects to tuning or removing emission equipment will potentially void the warranty.

Now removing the EGR valve and coolers is much more involved. Once its done its a lot harder to put back on if you need to bring the truck back to the dealer. If your planning to due that i would say make the decision if your worried about warranty or not. IF the the answer is no i would due the EGR valve, erg coolers, EPF delete and the diesel catalyst. IF the answer is yes i wouldn't messing with any of it tell the warranty is up.

Benefits of removing the DPF and EGR.

Pros,

Better milage, better performance, less contaminants being passed thru the engine. No chance of fuel dilution from incomplete regen cycles. No issues of coking. Increased longevity of engine. Longer oil life

Cons,

Voided warranty, illegal for on high way use, potential federal fines, lack of dealers to work on your truck or who won't work on them due to this equipment removed.

If you decide to remove the immense equipment make sure to hang onto it. Replacement cost can be 3000-4000 depending what all you remove.

Hope this helps.

 

^^^ What he said......another option is to use the block off plates for the EGR coolers. They install very easily and completely block any exhaust from being circulated through the intake. This leaves engine bay looking more stock as EGR coolers are still in place. This also leaves the support for the exhaust cross over pipe in place, so less chance of that cracking. Keep in mind though this method still leaves coolant flowing through the EGR coolers, however if they do develop a leak the coolant will not leak back into the cylinder and hydrolock the engine. Using the plates though you won't gain any extra space in the engine bay though as you would by removing the coolers completely.