hey, I have a XL 94 F150 302 161xxx miles, k&n cia and 4inch exhaust, E4OD transmission with 4x4, extended cab style side, 4 inch lift on 32 inch tires. I drive my truck 60-70 miles every day as I live over 20 miles away from school and have to do a lot of driving in town for high school, college, and work. I got my truck from my Grandpa after he died so I'm very fond of this truck as me and my father worked on it a lot when I was 11-15 years old and im now 17 so I've had this truck for 7 years. My truck is supposed to be a feet/company owned truck because it has a hole cut in the roof (for like an antenna), it is an XL but has lumbar supports and also a block heater (I'm assuming it's for like oiling in Alaska) and also has a high idle when it first starts in the morning when it's cold, I think Ford gave the truck to a company to test 95 transmissions.*
So now down to the questions.
I have an E4OD transmission and was wondering about at what mile area do they normally give away at? They use the E4OD on even the powerstroke and such my year, are all E4OD transmissions The same? Do they have like the same input shafts and outputs from them? I know they have different filters for different years because I tried every single 94 filter and I ended up getting a 95 E4OD filter. When my current transmission dies, I plan to switch to a manual (I like the control of a manual better, better mileage, and also I think it's cooler). When I switch, what transmission should I replace mine with? Is it a ZF that manual that I want?
My truck sometimes has a beeping, it'll beep from the dash, it beeps 25 times in 5 beep increments? What is my truck trying to tell me? I heard it was for a airbag thing?
I feel like my tuck should have way more power than it does. Sometimes it wants to get up and go and when I'm going down the road, I look down and I accidentally started going 70 when I was going 60 other times I struggle to keep it at 60 and find my self gearing down to third on flat surfaces? It almost seems to run a little better when it's warmer like 50 degrees outside. I've been thinking really hard about getting a throttle body spacer to get more low rpm power. (Major companies like Toyota have built in throttle body spacers buy switching tubes air travel down (longer tubes for lower rpm and short tubes for high rpm)). Any ideas on what it could be? I plan on checking my timing when I get the opportunity. It took me 18 seconds to get to 0-60 mph and I see guys on here with times around ten. Should I smog delete or egr delete? I only work at subway so I don't have a bunch of money to spend but I desperately want it to be a nice powerful truck and will go the distance to get it there. Could my timing be off or a sensor? Maybe my MAF or MAP is bad or maybe O2 sensor? I have no check engine light so if those were bad, wouldn't it show a light? Or can our Computer not detect this?
There is a can on the fender well on the passenger side, idk what this is, what is it? There is a box that is motorcraft on my drivers side fender, what is this box for? Also there is a vacuum line on the top of the intake manifold, one of them is a little leaky but what are they for? There is a little container under my battery with two caps on it and two lines it looks empty and I chased the line back and I couldn't chase it any further because it went above my gas tank, the other went to my throttle body. Is that little container my charcoal canister?*
Has anyone chipped their truck? I've looked and I've heard all they do is advance timing and I'm not into that because I need this engine to last me.
Any bolt ons you guys feel like will help I can probably do. I have a bit of mechanical skills and love working on my truck but I have no other car to get around so I can't take my engine apart to do new stuff that way. Thank you.

 

Yes check timing.
Don't like a slow truck? Get rid of the 32" tires (stock 29" will feel faster), do a gear swap & retain tall tires, or swap in anything other than an anemic 302 CI SBF.

Don't chip it, you can advance timing yourself, just watch for pinging under load.

Fix the vacuum leak you found.

95' E4OD is a good trans. I'm at 227k on my 96' (same as the updated 95's) behind a 351 and haven't been very nice to it.

Block heater is not uncommon. You're truck isn't some Alaska special despite what the History channel has you thinking.

No idea on the beeping.

Leave EGR in place. Make sure it works. Why delete smog parts, unless they are faulty? Do you dislike fresh air to breath? Much more gains in long tube headers & a high flow cat.

K&N CAI is a waste, factory 4.9L or 7.5L intake setup is a cheaper, more effective design. I do like my K&N drop in filter, but only bc I never have to buy filters; essentially no performance gains there.

Throttle body spacer is a waste too.

My recommendations: If all regular maintenance is done & the systems are all functional; 6L tuneup, regear, long tube headers & high flow cat. No gimmicks, just proven upgrades.

 

Thank you. I don't want to rehear because I need high way mileage. I spend 45 miles everyday on highway which is why I went to 32's but I plan to go back down to 30's or 31's after these are gone. Okay, I'll do more checks on it and on when I can.

 

I have an E4OD behind my 351 with 214k ('95 F150 XLT) and still no problems. Ran into a little electrical issue last year but with a fully electronically controlled transmission you can expect that after so many years. I was having hard shifts and blinking OD and it turned out to be the PSOM behind the cluster. Seen lots of people over the years misjudging an E4OD issue thinking it was mechanical failure when it (could) be something simple and electrical. Anyways..

GoinBoarding gave you some excellent advice. You'd be suprised what regular maintenance can help and prevent.

Also, the little 'coffee can' is part of the vacuum system, and you were probably chasing some vacuum lines. I would also suggest that you fix that leak. As for upgrades, TB spacer is a gimmick, I have a K&N setup too but only kept it on because it sorta helped some sluggish response I was having before I fixed the problem - no performance upgrade there. Throw on some longtube headers and a high flow cat like Boarding suggested. That's one of the best bolt on's you can do.

 

Okay, thanks so much. I take way good care of that truck just changed Trans guild 5 thousand miles ago, antifreeze change with a brake bleed and always keep track of my oil too. I will just make sure to keep doing these things. Thank you. I'll look into headers