Hi every one I am currently installing mustangII front end on my 1956 F100, the kit didn't come with any instructions so my source of information was the net.
I didn't weld the cross member to the frame because dmv won't bass any vehicle if any thing welded to the frame if it's not original so instead I welded every thing to a sudel and bolted it to the frame
The problem that I'm facing now is that the springs are rubbing against the frame
The truck is stell on jacks
Do you think that if I but the truck down on the weels the sprig well clear the frame?
Or sould I cut the weld on spring cups and move them out a little?
I'm new at this build and don't know how it's going to effect the truck or the ride or the camper and caster
I really need help from the experts out there who done this before. I need to know how to get the spring cups positioned correctly and is there any known measurement that I missed?




frame and crossmember zeroed to the ground front to back and right to left





This is the sudel I come up with so not to wel ant thong to the frame














The spring rubbing in the frame from the top

 

Yours looks to be in approximately the same position as mine and mine is a TCI chassis that was welded together at their place. As far as I know, my springs don't rub and there are no clearance issues.

 

I love how clean your fire wall is. I don't know what to do with my problem I hate to cut and re weld the springs cup I hope some one have a solution. I stopped working on it tel I solv this issue

 

Do the ends of the springs index into the upper or lower cups? If not, try rotating the springs so the ends are 180 from where you have them now.

 

it appears that you have a piece of metal on the outside of the frame which was not part of the kit (due to the welding restrictions you mentioned). the original position of the upper spring perch did not have enough clearance to incorporate that extra metal. I t assumed the outer surface was the existing frame rail. Could you redesign the way you are attacking the IFS to the frame to leave out that section of metal? maybe make the flanges to front and back longer or add more stiffness to the inner flange. you would have to move your bolt holes forward and aft. another option is to just cut out a small section where the spring is actually touching if there is enough metal remaining in your outer tubing sleeve to support the install.

 

^^^^^ yep that's exactly what I was thinking. If you had that 3/8" back on each side you should be good, and maybe keep your boxing plate flush with the outside of the frame. Oh and what is an ANT thong??? "wel ant thong" haha

 

Maybe more $ than what you want to spend. But maybe coilover shocks might solve the problem.
I don't know for sure but the coilovers look narrower and would probably clear your frame.

 

Thank you guys very much for your support and valuable information, the first thing I did was rotating the springs and made sure that they are positioned the way it would be, I did get a much better result but it's still touching that plat so I'll have to remove the springs and cut a small sanction from the plat where the springs are rubbing.
My engine is a 429 I think it's too heavy for the coil springs.
Thanks a lot again and I'll post more photos with the results

 

I don't know what you mean with ANT thong?

 

My springs didn't fully seat until I drove a few miles. It was such a difference that I pulled out the 2" drop spindles and went to standard height spindles.

 

looking good!