1955 F-100 Frame Crack
#1
1955 F-100 Frame Crack
So I discovered a crack on driver side and in front of the leaf spring shackle mount. I didn’t notice the crack after removing the old leaf springs or when I test fitted the new posie drop front springs (mainly because I didn’t completely remove the old schakle brackets) However, after completely removing everything for paint and heck while I’m at it splash a little paint on frame my heart sank a bit. My first thought, drill, weld, paint and forget it. I don’t think the crack was caused by stress but more by something that was broken for a long time and rubbed the area thin. However it looked like the parts were all original and nothing was ever replaced, I didn’t notice anything that was touching. The only out of ordinary thing I could find was the eyelets of the original leaf springs were not rounded. Any thoughts or concerns beyond how I plan to repair?
#2
Theodog I am going to subscribe to this as I did what you are doing and my left side (driver) sits lower than right side. I have changed the springs form side to side and no difference. I used the lower and forward springs from Mid Fifty. On the fixing of the frame I would take it to a frame shop and have them make sure it is with in specs and then weld. Good Luck.
#4
I agree. There's no weight or stress ahead of the damaged area. It was caused by something hitting it hard or rubbing for a long time. Weld it up, grind it smooth and paint it. It will be fine.
#5
Probably from either very worn springs or a lot of overloaded miles and missing bump stops. If it were mine I'd grind it flat, drill a small hole at the end of the crack to stop it then open up the crack slightly with a cutoff tool and bevel the edges before welding. The vertical portion of the frame carries the load, the horizontal parts stabilize the vertical.
#7
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#13
I had an FTE member come down an buy a few parts from me and he pointed out a crack in my frame between the front driver side cab mount and the cross member. He said they were all cracked there. I haven't fixed it yet but it's on my to do list. You may want to check there also.
#15
When welding in such a spot, I would prefer to place a small piece of 1/8" (maybe 1" wide) on top of the weld area. With the frame ground out in order to make a gap, weld the 1/8" to one side of the gap and then to the other side.
Continue with additional welds until the crack is filled.
The 1/8" forms a heat sink and allows for a 100% weld without any weak areas.
Be sure to sand both the bottom and top of the weld areas.
Continue with additional welds until the crack is filled.
The 1/8" forms a heat sink and allows for a 100% weld without any weak areas.
Be sure to sand both the bottom and top of the weld areas.