I'll take pics within the hour....
As for carb, we had to take bowls off a Holley from the S.Y. & put them on the original carb, which has 9510 stamped on it.... so when you see it in pics you'll know what it is....

 

Just bought it and I don't have money to just overhaul it, so don't laugh at thismess, lol




from front





passenger side view





Driver side view

 

What does the large open metal tube on the passenger side at the rear of the carburetor connect to? It can be seen most clearly in the 3rd photo.

 

The good news is that you do indeed have a 351/5.8L 4V H.O. that looks mostly complete and intact. That means you don't have to deal with a feedback carburetor with the engine computer and all of the associated wiring and sensors that feed it information.

Still, there is a lot of vacuum spaghetti there for sure. It's kind of hard to see everything, because a lot of the vacuum lines are covering up others, but here are a few things I see...

I. The biggest thing is the lack of a smog pump. It would have been located right above the alternator, on that HUGE bracket the heater hose return is running on top of.

1. - If you have smog testing in your area, you will need to put that back on. It's job is to pump fresh air into the heads to help the catalytic converters reduce emissions. The belt that drives the pump will connect to the outside alternator pulley.
2. - If you don't have catalytic converters, you can leave it off without it affecting anything else.


II. That is indeed a stock Motorcraft (Made by Holley) 4180 carburetor but with aftermarket Holley fuel bowls, just like you said earlier.

1. - I see an open vacuum port that needs to be capped off in the passenger's side picture.
2. - I would try to find the stock style fuel bowls, as they have an port on the bowls that will connect to the mess I will try to describe below:


III. On the passenger's side view picture, resting on the alternator and the passenger's side plastic inner fender, you have a clump of vacuum hoses attached to two round vacuum valves and two cylinder-shaped bowl vent solenoid valves. These are connected to the charcoal canister(s) located down low by the battery. If you have two gas tanks, you will have two canisters. The other open ends would have been connected to the original carburetor fuel bowls. All of this is part of the evaporative emissions. The purpose is to is route the gas fumes from the carburetor into the canister to be held and later recycled into the engine for burning. The gas tank is also connected to one end of the purge valve(s).

Like the PCV system, this system doesn't cost any horsepower at all. Again, I would try to find original style fuel bowls and hook the hoses back up. This will help keep under your hood (and your garage) from smelling like gas fumes and an OLD beater. Doing this will help keep your truck mostly original. If you decide to take it off, it would be VERY difficult to piece this all back together later.

Plus, you never know when your area may try to bring back emissions testing!

But if you can't find the stock style fuel bowls or decide to go with an aftermarket carburetor, you can:

1. - Cap off the open ends of the bowl vent solenoid valves, or
2. - Remove the two electric solenoid valves completely and cap off where they connect to the purge valves. If you have one gas tank, you can also remove one of the purge valves and connect the tank to only one of these.


IV. At the back of the engine, on the passenger's side valve cover, I see a small vacuum hose stuck inside the big hose that connects to the oil filler cap. The open end of oil filler cap hose should connect to a small filter located inside the air cleaner. Are you still using the stock air cleaner?

1. - The smaller hose should connect to a vacuum tree located at the back of the engine, screwed into the intake manifold. This line supplies vacuum to a plastic 3-prong vacuum manifold that is bolted to the firewall, up where your A/C hose is.
2. - The other two hoses that attach to this vacuum manifold power the HVAC system inside the truck and the TRANSMISSION.

That could be why your transmission isn't shifting right.

 

I know this isn't your normal FTE post, lol and I am not the norm as far as members go, so I greatly appreciate the time you've given t me, I am a pretty intelligent woman, and I come from a long line of Ford Mechanics, but they all live far away and I wanna do this myself

 

Jemo1stford - Just where in Okiehoma are you located? I'm just north of Tulsa.

 

I am right in the heart of OKC
Nice to Meet You, Gary, I am Jessica

 

Can anyone help id these items, please?

 

1. The vacuum reservoir that saves up vacuum so the HVAC controls continue to work when you floor the throttle
2. The HVAC blower motor
3. The A/C housing
4. The low pressure Freon fill point
5. Voltage regulator for the alternator

 

Thanks to both Lariat 85 & Gary Lewis for ALL the time, patience & help.... you don't know JUST WHAT you got started

 

Try to keep as close as possible to the original, once you start to re-engineer you will have a full time job of it. Most everything about these trucks is dependent on everything else. I have been down the road of making it work with out this or that "smog" stuff. Once gone most of it can't be replaced and in essence they are a computer run by vacuum. jmo..

 

Fortunately the HO versions had much less emissions stuff than did the non-HO's. Don't get me wrong, they still had quite a bit, including the AIR pump, EGR valve, and a strange pair of exhaust diverter valves. But fortunately no computer.

The AIR pump is missing on this one so the diverter valve and associated plumbing isn't being used. And, as the onion is peeled I'm sure we will find more that isn't connected.

 

Yes, you may cap these off. The ports would have been at the TOP of the stock fuel bowls, though.

I would keep the original Motorcraft/Holley 4180 carburetor you have. And keep an eye out in the junkyard or Ebay for a spare for the correct fuel bowls and for extra parts. Or buy a new rebuilt unit from RockAuto or your local auto parts store. This carburetor can also be found on carbureted Ford 460 engines and was used on the famous 4-barrel 1983 - 1985 Ford 5.0 Mustangs, so they should be readily available.

The 5.8L 4V H.O. really was a pretty good package from the factory in stock form, and I think Ford got most of it right. The carburetor was one of them. What makes it better is the annular boosters in the primaries. Most aftermarket carburetors do NOT have this design. These boosters were actually designed by Ford engineers and are MUCH more efficient than the other designs in that they atomize fuel much better. This means better throttle response, fuel economy and emissions. In fact, Holley bought the annular booster design from Ford when Ford started exclusively producing vehicles with electronic fuel injection. The Motorcraft 4180 you have (and the Autolite 2100/4100 and Motorcraft 2150 carburetors) are the closest thing in carburetion you can get to electronic fuel injection.

For all electronic parts, do yourself a favor and try to buy all stock replacement MOTORCRAFT parts. They are usually of much higher quality than anything aftermarket and are designed to fit your truck exactly. You will not gain anything by going to one of those fancy "racing" electronic ignitions.

The stock Motorcraft/Holley 4180 is a 600 cfm carburetor, and that is a good size for that engine as well. And they use off-the-shelf Holley parts, like jets, floats, etc. If you HAD to replace it with a different one, I would probably go with the Summit Racing carburetor in the same size. It would be much closer to what you already have than the Edelbrock. It is basically a re-designed Holley 4010 carburetor, so it also uses Holley replacement parts. But like trevisM said, the vacuum provisions are totally different, and they can often be a real pain to figure out how to hook back up to a different carburetor.