Clutch master/ slave
#1
Clutch master/ slave
My clutch pedal is going to the floor before disengaging, has 200k. Changed the clutch about a year ago so it should be good. So I was thinking about buying a new master/slave prebled unit but all I can find is the Dorman. Anyone know if Ford makes one? Anyone have luck with Dorman? One thing i've learned is stock is better on the old girl.
I couldn't find directions anywhere doesn't look too hard but though i'd read up on it before it gets here haha.
I couldn't find directions anywhere doesn't look too hard but though i'd read up on it before it gets here haha.
#4
I buy the pre-bled units from Rock Auto. When my factory one failed I went with a pre-bled set up from the Ford house. It was on the pricey side and failed in less than a year. I've had better luck with the aftermarket ones. (although the factory one did last a long time).
Changing them out is easy and no need to bleed the pre-bled units. Under the truck take some channel locks and give the slave a 1/4 twist counter clockwise to loosen it from the bell housing. There's a plastic tip with wings on the end of the rod so slowly remove the slave so you don't knock the tip off and down into the bell housing.
Under the dash, slip a small screwdriver between the plastic bushing and the stud coming off the clutch pedal and slide the rod off the pedal (pedal now will come up to the dash so keep your chin out of the way). Same 1/4 turn unlocks the master from the firewall so you can remove the other end of the hydraulics.
When installing, reverse the procedure but make sure you install the slave in the bell housing before you push the new rod into the master cylinder. Otherwise you'll break the plastic tabs holding the rod in the slave in place and have to be more careful putting the slave in.
Changing them out is easy and no need to bleed the pre-bled units. Under the truck take some channel locks and give the slave a 1/4 twist counter clockwise to loosen it from the bell housing. There's a plastic tip with wings on the end of the rod so slowly remove the slave so you don't knock the tip off and down into the bell housing.
Under the dash, slip a small screwdriver between the plastic bushing and the stud coming off the clutch pedal and slide the rod off the pedal (pedal now will come up to the dash so keep your chin out of the way). Same 1/4 turn unlocks the master from the firewall so you can remove the other end of the hydraulics.
When installing, reverse the procedure but make sure you install the slave in the bell housing before you push the new rod into the master cylinder. Otherwise you'll break the plastic tabs holding the rod in the slave in place and have to be more careful putting the slave in.
#5
I buy the pre-bled units from Rock Auto. When my factory one failed I went with a pre-bled set up from the Ford house. It was on the pricey side and failed in less than a year. I've had better luck with the aftermarket ones. (although the factory one did last a long time).
Changing them out is easy and no need to bleed the pre-bled units. Under the truck take some channel locks and give the slave a 1/4 twist counter clockwise to loosen it from the bell housing. There's a plastic tip with wings on the end of the rod so slowly remove the slave so you don't knock the tip off and down into the bell housing.
Under the dash, slip a small screwdriver between the plastic bushing and the stud coming off the clutch pedal and slide the rod off the pedal (pedal now will come up to the dash so keep your chin out of the way). Same 1/4 turn unlocks the master from the firewall so you can remove the other end of the hydraulics.
When installing, reverse the procedure but make sure you install the slave in the bell housing before you push the new rod into the master cylinder. Otherwise you'll break the plastic tabs holding the rod in the slave in place and have to be more careful putting the slave in.
Changing them out is easy and no need to bleed the pre-bled units. Under the truck take some channel locks and give the slave a 1/4 twist counter clockwise to loosen it from the bell housing. There's a plastic tip with wings on the end of the rod so slowly remove the slave so you don't knock the tip off and down into the bell housing.
Under the dash, slip a small screwdriver between the plastic bushing and the stud coming off the clutch pedal and slide the rod off the pedal (pedal now will come up to the dash so keep your chin out of the way). Same 1/4 turn unlocks the master from the firewall so you can remove the other end of the hydraulics.
When installing, reverse the procedure but make sure you install the slave in the bell housing before you push the new rod into the master cylinder. Otherwise you'll break the plastic tabs holding the rod in the slave in place and have to be more careful putting the slave in.
Thanks
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