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Motor mounts for jumping a f150

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  #1  
Old 12-26-2014, 06:30 PM
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So I built a tuff truck. 96 f150 4x4 with 2wd front suspension. 4" stage 2 lift. King 2.0 piggybacks.
5.0l and this ******* flies.

Put in brand new napa motor mounts and after 1 race this is what it looked like


I'm launching this thing pretty good. Have come down on the front end hard a few times.

Here's what it looks like all together


What's the best motor mount I can use that wont destroy itself on first jump.
I know plates in front and back of engine is ideal.
But they cost a fair bit.
 
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Old 12-27-2014, 08:38 AM
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Jeff's Broncon graveyard has poly's


Super Duty Poly Motor Mounts,302,351W

http://shop.broncograveyard.com/Supe...uctinfo/30505/
 
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Old 12-27-2014, 08:49 AM
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the polys are what ya want, like said above. but for the tuff truck theyre almost 100 a set no matter where you look....might just wanna chain 'er to the frame.
 
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Old 12-27-2014, 09:43 AM
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Make your own. Build them out of 3/16 plate. Gusset them up good.

Chaining it to the frame isn't going to help, the mounts are getting crushed.

Are there any rules on engine setback? If not, look into sliding the engine back a bit if you can. It'll fly much better. Or get a Bronco, mine flies pretty well... The wheelbase is like 12" shorter than the short box.

Lastly, hang some weight off the back of the truck ala dukes of hazard.

EDIT: Alternatively, modify a set of stock mounts. Weld in a gusset to support the weak area.
 
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Old 12-27-2014, 01:43 PM
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Originally Posted by f100beatertruck
Make your own. Build them out of 3/16 plate. Gusset them up good.

Chaining it to the frame isn't going to help, the mounts are getting crushed.

Are there any rules on engine setback? If not, look into sliding the engine back a bit if you can. It'll fly much better. Or get a Bronco, mine flies pretty well... The wheelbase is like 12" shorter than the short box.

Lastly, hang some weight off the back of the truck ala dukes of hazard.

EDIT: Alternatively, modify a set of stock mounts. Weld in a gusset to support the weak area.
I will just make solid ones. It's just so I can sell the truck. I don't want the next owner to have issues.
My new truck is a real race truck.
1996 f150 SODA class 8 truck

Has full frame full chromoly tube cage, wide wheelbase, coil over front suspension, large bumpstops, custom sway bars, quarter elliptical 4link rear suspension, custom 5way bypass rear shocks(with rebuild parts), bias brakes for kickin out the rear, quick steer, setback engine. 2sets of engine plates for BBF or SBF.

Will do a build thread as this truck needs a full teardown after sitting for ten years.
Truck originally was built and raced with a 460.
I am pretty attached to the 5.0l maf. Have 2 sitting in the shop right now ready to run.
But I have a 460 block that needs a fresh up.

What engine do you figure will be the best for racing. I know 460 will go like a raped ape. But they are heavy.
 
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Old 12-27-2014, 05:06 PM
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ahhh yea I shoulda taken a better look at the pic, chains aren't solvin that.


a heavy plate on the back of the mount would at least keep it from caving in, may still need chains to keep em from getting destroyed on rebound.


careful, solids might wipe the mounts off the block, or cause more carnage, with that much shock.
 
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Old 12-27-2014, 06:56 PM
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Originally Posted by '89F2urd
careful, solids might wipe the mounts off the block, or cause more carnage, with that much shock.
Thought about that. Sometimes you want certain parts to break so they act like a fuse and protect the more expensive parts...

I'd just put some gusseting on a set of stock mounts and be done with it. Tell the new owner to keep an eye on them.
 
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Old 12-28-2014, 06:02 PM
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This was a fun thread to read, thanks for sharing.
 
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Old 05-11-2015, 03:06 PM
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Originally Posted by 87-XL-Squared
This was a fun thread to read, thanks for sharing.
well stay tuned.
I have converted the truck back to 4x4 with superrunner steering, have a 6" on it now. have took a set of clapped out factory mounts and plated them up really good. pulled all the rubber and ran a grade 8 through both plates with a shim between. I will run them and let you know what happens. I pulled the 96 5.0 and installed a 92 5.0 with low oil pressure when hot.15w40 solves that.


and another thing is that ford motor mounts are thicker and more braced than the napa ones. ford will fit everytime, napa has to be tweeked everytime



and if the mount wipes out the block then I will share the carnage.


my new truck is close to being done but first race is coming up and I wont be able to post build till after.


I received a 97 460 efi 5 speed f250 from the neighbor
im installing the engine with the efi and using a stage 3 race c-6 with manual valvebody controlled by a artcarr gateshift


got a custom rear diff from desert specialties 9" with free float 40 spline running 5.43 gear spooled.
 
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Old 05-13-2015, 01:07 PM
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Originally Posted by f100beatertruck
Thought about that. Sometimes you want certain parts to break so they act like a fuse and protect the more expensive parts...

I'd just put some gusseting on a set of stock mounts and be done with it. Tell the new owner to keep an eye on them.
Check these out. Stock ford mounts that were separated ,melted the rubber off , then put a aftermarket 04 up rear leaf spacer and a grade 8 1/2" bolt through the hole in the back of stock plate through.
Migged it up and whala.







 
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