I have a Super Duty with a bad 6.0, I'm looking at probably $4500++ to get it fixed. Not happy about it. I found a complete running/driving regular cab 04 F350 for $3000 which I hope to buy tomorrow. My plan is to take the engine from this and put it in my truck. I'm going to pay my mechanic to do this because I want it done right.

I might try to pull the engine from the donor truck myself to save money. How hard would this be? I do not have a lift to take the cab off with. I am not against taking a sawzall to the donor truck to get the motor, but, I would like to save it for a future project.

Can a single cab be lifted off with a cherry picker? Would it be hard for someone without experience to pull the engine with the cab off? Need anymore than basic hand tools?

 

What is wrong with your current engine?

 

Ditto.

But if you do have to pull one you don't need to remove the cab. They come
out the front also.

Have a look at this thread.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...oval-pics.html

You just remove the radiator and core support.


Sean

 

It's not 100% diagnosed, but I think I have a cracked head, and also need injectors, FICM, alternator, and oil cooler. I'm probably forgetting something. Also the truck has been sitting a while so now I'm worried about the turbo having issues. Cab has to come off, and head gaskets probably done.

That is great news. Is it easy-ish for my mechanic to put the engine back without removing the cab? Any idea how many hours of labor would be involved in a swap? I'll read over that thread in a little bit.

 

How do you know that the replacement engine does not need the same. Need a good diagnosis besides injectors oil cooler ficm and heads. All of those are easily diagnosed individually.

 

With the list you just posted I would bet someone is looking to
pay there rent for the next few months on your bank account.
Just the FICM and injectors and cracked heads would have me
looking elsewhere. Too much all at once = fishy.


On the how much time.
Just a guess but just pulling the engine a few hours. Now this also depends on on
how much care you put into the removal process. You can save the A/C charge if
you use some care and remove the compressor and lines from the engine.

Look at all of the thread that Anthony did. The one thing you need to make will
be the lifting bracket.


Sean

 

Because I can test drive it. I will be checking it with my scangauge also. If it starts it's already 100% ahead of my other one. It has less miles than my truck does. For 3 grand I'm going to buy it either way, it looks like a nice little base model truck. Only problem is the bed is beat up, but I don't need that part...

I might just sell all the extra parts and break even.

My engine is f***ed, I'm not looking for a diagnosis here. Stuff has been adding up for a long time. Either way the heads have to come off and the injectors need replaced. Core value is still quite a bit on these parts. Or I might rebuild it later on and put it back in the donor truck.

Thanks for the info.

 

Just trying to make sure that some shop is not trying to
shoot you in the bank account. We see it all too often.

Like I said the only odd tool will be the lifting bracket. To make
it you are going to have to pull the turbo. That also gives you
some room to work in. Before you do start the job it's a good idea
to spray the bolts that hold the up-pipes with some penetrating oil.
I like Kroil. Also spray the turbo mounting bolts the back on can be
a real PITA. 6 point 10mm so it does not slip on the flats and round
the head. A digital camera is one of the optional tools that you may find
very handy. There are some bolts that are part of the fan stator that
can be a pain 15mm if I recall. Watch DieselTechRon and his video about.
Some things he covers that you won't need to worry about but worth
the time to watch the full video so you know what is being done to your
rig. One thing to make note of is wire placement.

Sean

 

I have some pics in my album for what you are asking. In our case, we had to people working on the truck. Putting in a full day we had the engine pulled, the other put back in with about a 3rd of the truck put back together. Day 2 we were able to wrap it up... You are probably looking at 1.5-2 hours to take the front of the truck apart your first go round. If you've done it before you can cut that time down considerably. For us the hardest part was the A/C compressor bolts. They were a pain. All in all, it wasn't too bad. Have a really good hoist and something to set your other engine on.

 

Out the front in 4 hours. Imo pulling a cab is awaste of time.

 

You need to cut Cheezit a little slack to many years a Ford Tech. Pulling the cab is not a normal Ford procedure. That was developed by independants.

However he is quite right. With a little practice you can pull a engine out the front faster than you can remove the cab.
The engine was designed to come out the front. The engine is modular nothing has to be removed just disconnected and folded or tied out the way. engine harnes unplugged at the engine to cab harness connector

At ford you would be sucking out the freon in the a/c while removeing the front clip and bumper. Disconnect the lines from compressor and evap core leaveing compressor in place. Tie out of the way. With 2 people while doing the clip one is underneath disconnecting the tranny and fuel lines at the frame and starter wireing.

With tranney on a jack just slide back a little to clear. Remove motor mounts at frame bolts Lift just a little and slide right out don't even have to remove the turbo. Leaveing everything attached to the engine.

 

I did it this summer. Not a bad job at all. Take the sway bar out if you're leaving the bumper on, it'll give you a place to stand to work on the engine. Remember torque convertor has 6 (or 8??) bolts. I had to weld up an extension to get at them, mine were all the wrong lengths. I didn't take the motor mounts off when I pulled it out, and made way more work for myself.

 

Well, I got my victim. Ended up paying $3500, still a good deal. Couldn't find anything wrong with it besides a dent in the passenger side of the bed. 190k. Runs fantastic, has red coolant. I kind of feel bad taking it apart.

 

As you should. Murderer!

Good luck with the swap.

 

I think it may be already bleeding out. Is that a puddle just in back of the driver front tire.
Somebody call 911.