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Battery or Starter

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Old 12-16-2014, 01:26 AM
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Battery or Starter

The last five weeks (or so), my 08' Ranger has experienced several near no starts. I get in, turn the key, and the vehicle gives me the 'oh it isn't going to start' feeling. Thankfully, the vehicle starts, and I want it to stay that way. Ironically, the battery is only 10 months old, and I have the warranty left. I had the battery tested (by the chain where it was purchased), and I was told, 'all good'. Recently, a grind when starting developed, and while having other work performed on the vehicle, the battery, starter, and 'charging system' (I presume alternator) were tested. Diagnosis was 'replace battery'. My question is whether anyone has experienced a grind with a weak battery because that sounds like a starter going. Technically, I could have two separate issues. On a side note, the shop did say that some oil was present on the starter (apparently from a sloppy oil change performed elsewhere). They also said that there opinion is that I'm experiencing a battery issue. I have not experienced any odd behavior, though, like dimming lights. Tomorrow, I head to the national chain again for battery testing. I do have the printout from the independent shop as evidence. Any opinions would be appreciated. Thanks.
 
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Old 12-16-2014, 06:56 AM
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Your starter system needs to be tested for amp draw while the starter is engaging. From that it can be determined if the battery or starter is the issue.

This could also be possibly caused by weak or poor condition battery cables.

Frankly I'd look for a shop dedicated to diagnosing electrical problems, perhaps someone specializing in starting/charging issues. Sadly it sounds like you're being shuffled off by this "national chain", the motives thereof being highly suspicious.
 
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Old 12-16-2014, 07:24 AM
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Originally Posted by JWA
Your starter system needs to be tested for amp draw while the starter is engaging. From that it can be determined if the battery or starter is the issue.

This could also be possibly caused by weak or poor condition battery cables.

Frankly I'd look for a shop dedicated to diagnosing electrical problems, perhaps someone specializing in starting/charging issues. Sadly it sounds like you're being shuffled off by this "national chain", the motives thereof being highly suspicious.
I did have some corrosion on one of the terminals that was cleaned off, and it didn't help. Since the battery is under warranty, getting blown off is what I'm afraid of since they are on the hook for a new battery. I'm glad I got something as evidence from the shop to show them. Later, I plan on dealing with the situation further.

Wouldn't a full service shop be able to tell? How antiquated is their equipment? Thanks for the response.
 
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Old 12-16-2014, 07:40 AM
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Gee, where have I heard of this before? First they sell you a new battery. When you come back in a week, then they sell you a new alternator.

Do you have a voltmeter?

http://www.aa1car.com/library/charging_checks.htm
 
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Old 12-16-2014, 07:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Tedster9
Gee, where have I heard of this before? First they sell you a new battery. When you come back in a week, then they sell you a new alternator.

Do you have a voltmeter?

Alternator & Charging System Checks (Alternator Testing)
No, and according to the shop printout, the battery is putting out only 13.03 volts. Also, measured amps was 441CCA vs. the 590CCA rating.
 
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Old 12-16-2014, 08:35 AM
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A decent DVOM isn't expensive, has dozens of uses around the home and troubleshooting cars and trucks. It will definitely pay for itself.

"Only 13.03" volts may be OK, although the loss of capacity probably means some sulfation. In order to test battery voltage, the surface charge must be removed. Think of surface charge like the foam in a glass of beer, it's not a true measure of volume. A fully charged low maintenance battery without surface charge will read 12.65 volts, a "maintenance free" ca/ca 12.80, the tenths of volts matter in an auto start battery - 12.0 and the battery is practically dead and may fail. It's true - practically 1/2 a volt is the difference between a fully charged battery and one at 25%, battery chemistry is easily understood and you don't have to leave it up to a chucklehead at the chain store. Don't get me wrong there are dedicated techs but why take the chance?
 
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Old 12-23-2014, 06:51 PM
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Update: I went back to the national chain that sold me the battery, which I purchased on Jan. 5th, 2014. They tested my vehicle and determined that my battery was indeed 'not fully performing', so under warranty I received a new one. On a side note, the counter person was a dick because I had a photo copied receipt (which I was told to do at purchase) because the thermal receipt paper does not hold up well. Also, I wen to a different store than the original one where I purchased the battery, and he hemmed and hawed. I told him, 'What's the problem, you're a national chain, correct'? He responded, 'Well, they have your info.'. I said, 'So, I have my receipt, and I can give you my info. What's the problem'? He replied, 'None, if we have your battery in stock'. They did, and luckily sent a more cheerful person out to do the switch. So pissed. Not like they were busy or anything. 4 o'clock, 4 employees (maybe 5) working, and one customer besides me in line buying something small. Anyway, batteries are evidently not prorated anymore. Guy said that starting about a year ago, customers buy either a 1, 2, or 3 year one with free replacement. I am grandfathered in, and my three year battery lasted 11 1/2 months, so my new one is free 24 month replacement and one year pro-rated. Hopefully, I will have better luck because without the warranty, I'd have just gone to Wal-Mart and saved the hassle.
 
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