Tried searching for this- couldn't readily find. I have stock '56 front end, with eight leaf springs. How about removing spring center bolt - then moving third leaf (from top) 1/4" forward. Then move fourth leaf 1/2" forward (from it's original position), fifth leaf forward 3/4", again from it's original position and so forth to re-stagger leaves so bottom short leaf will now be about 1- 1/2" forward from stock location? Second from top leaf is not moved because it wraps around rear eyelet/mount.
At least two concerns---
1). There will be no center bolt now, so springs would be marked with thin paint line strip down height to show proper location & position during install & tightening. Will correct torque on spring clamps be enough to hold re-stacked set together with no centerbolt??

2). Top main leaf's center bolt hole will now be near edge of 'U-Bolt upper tie plate', so a potentially easy break point. One solution is - I have some short bottom leaves from other sets that I would put on top of my new spring stacks, so main/top leaf is now sandwiched & less prone to break at it's center hole. Good enough??

What say ye? Thanks, John

 

Springs are designed to work as designed - As you described your thought these things come to mind
The vehicle geometry won't work
The center bolt will shear
The leaves will break either at the center bolt or to the rear of that location

We like you, please don't endanger yourself or others

 

nope nope nope nope no thank you. I wouldn't trust that one bit on the road. I don't even think I would do that if I drove it on and off a trailer for car shows and never took it on the street. It wont take much to show the whole front axle sideways and lose control. You will force the pass side into the firewall and the driverside will stay in place or close to because of the steering.

 

Well said, I always say it isnt fair to the family in the mini van for someones "cootiebobbed" ideas or repairs.

 

Back in the day when I drove truck OTR one of my centerbolts broke and fell out while in upstate NY. The springs started moving around and one of them punched a hole in the back of my drivers side fuel tank.That was big enough for about 25 gallons of fuel to go bye-bye. My front drive axle also moved 1 1/4 inch in the process. Not good.

 

Apparently you've never read up on the correct way to disassemble/assemble a leaf spring. You may want to study the process, then ask yourself this question.

 

A much simpler solution is to have 2 new main leafs made with the proper center bolt location. Any good spring shop can do this easily. Please don't drive it with no center bolts.

 

I'm not sure what your goal is with that mod John. Maybe if you post that we can help. There may be a reason why your search didn't reveal anything.

 

I looked at ways to do this with my '53 F350. I just always thought that the axle looked about 1 1/2" too far back. I considered new holes in the top two leafs, but thought they could be weak with the extra holes. I also determined that the drag link needed 1 1/2" added to it too, but that wouldn't be hard. I have done a lot of work with leaf springs over the years and would NEVER drive without center bolts. Really bad idea, but I do see some incentive for moving the axle forwards a bit. If I'm not mistaken, I have read some info about the subject on this site. Eventually sold that truck and now I don't have to think about it any more. Sure did turn nice and tight like it was..........Edit: When guys install IFS in these trucks, do they normally center the wheels in the front fender, or use the factory backset?

 

Thanks to all for their comments. My reason is to better center wheel in fender opening. There was another thread going on this, but dealt more with reworking the sheetmetal opening as opposed to moving axle forward & lengthening drag link. I'm also aware of new spring sets which offer this reposition. I'm just the frugal, conservative type. Consensus appears that spring u-bolt clamping force, alone, is not adequate for a safe margin. From a safety standpoint, I concur & am formulating plan 'B'. Thanks, again- John.

 

Safety First!

 

If you tried this and actually drove it, You would be the DEAD type!
Please learn how and why leaf springs are made the way the are, or leave them alone. Without a centerbolt, first you would not be able to compress the stack, the curve is such (on purpose) that they do NOT just sit one on top the next, Second the centerbolt's special head indexes into a hole in the axle to keep the axle from shifting. First time you hit the brakes or a pothole the axle would shift and the truck would become uncontrollable.
There are lot of other serious reasons that this is the WORST idea I've heard in a long time!