Hmm, I think I may just use the '52 hood it has and badge it correctly as a '52 as that is what it is registered as, even though we here know better. Plus it would be a lot cheaper that way as all I need is the FORD lettering and the correct spears and I would be set.

On another note, I've tracked down an 84 Toyota PS box and pump at a wreckers about an hour and a half from me, so I'm definitely going that route as a safety improvement.

As much as I would love to keep the Merc intact and have someone restore it, I've had no bites on it really, so think I will use it for the parts I need, sell off some things I don't, and use it for patch panels (or the whole cab for that matter).

Cheers

 

Well progress is being made finally!


The Merc frame is sitting in the yard now. Waiting to take the last few things off, and then to the scrapper unfortunately



The Merc is pretty well stripped down minus a few odds and ends, and the frame is rolled out of the garage to make room for all the bodywork. The cab has a few things left to take out still. Having a heck of a time getting the fresh air vent out. just can't get the assembly off the hinge rod. Any tricks for that?
Bodywork is in pretty good shape, the only trouble spots I can see before getting it blasted are the front cab mounts, the seam between the floor and firewall, and a section on the top of the windshield (but I can rob a patch of that from the Ford cab)


I was able to get the doors off the Merc more easily, but still have a few of the screws that broke off in the retainer plate. Wondering what the best way of getting them out now will be. Is it best to slice the retainer open at the top to get the plate out or do it in situ?

On the Ford side, got the radiator out in preparation to pull the engine once the cab is off to work on repainting the frame. I noticed that it looks as if the rad was replaced with a larger one at some point. the spreader bar rivets had been drilled out on one side and splayed about an inch so they could shoehorn a larger rad in. It fits, but only the top bolt holes line up in the frame as it is right now. Wondering if it's worth getting the proper rad, or section and spread the frame to work with the rad I have.

Finally found a truck parts yard that's working with me to try and make F-550 axles work in the old M-H so I can actually get brake parts, and be able to have disk brakes up front for bigger loads and towing down the road. We will see how that goes.

Also found a company in Ontario that will rebuild the Midland and Bendix brake boosters for me, so once those are off I'll have to send them off to be rebuilt.

And found a '84 Toyota power steering box and pump at one of the local wreckers here. Thankfully they're pretty popular here, but this was still the last box they had. The lines were already missing, but figure I would have to get new ones made anyway since it will probably be a longer run. Does anyone have pictures of the bracket they fabbed up for the pump? might make my life a little easier instead of trying to reinvent the wheel. My thinking is to remove the fan and use an electric one instead, and use that belt off the crank for driving the power steering pump.



Hoping to make more progress on the Ford this weekend. And am starting to have some surplus parts. Turns out between the two trucks they had a full set of lock ring rims between them, so I have 2 sets as of now if anyone wants original 20" rims to replace widdowmakers. Also have some Merc trim and a set of F-3 5 star hood trim that I will post on here once it's off.
If I don't get any bites by the beginning of June on here they will go up on E-Pay.

Now to start ordering some parts and hoping to get the frame and engine ready this next month.

Cheers,

Mike

 

Sounds like you are attacking them hard. On the twisted off door bolts I've had luck using the blue wrench with plenty of PB Blaster then either drilling for an "easy out" or notching them to screw them in so they fall out on the inside. I don't see why you'd have a different radiator core support, if I understand what you wrote. Could the Merc donate the correct pieces? And to remove the vent here's an old thread describing how it's done. Stu

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...t-removal.html

 

good you give me the name of the company in ontario that repairs brake boosters. i will pass on hoist . keep up on the good work!

 

Stu, as always, thanks for the advise. I'll post a pic of the rad today and then you will see what I mean. I do have the rad support from the Merc that is unmolested. And thanks for the link.

John Stuart Power Brake in Stony Plains, Ont
www.johnstuartpowerbrake.com
talked to Brent via e-mail. figured about $450 cdn to re-manufacture them.
They do both Bendix and Midland Hy-Power style boosters.

I'm sending them my Midland, but have a Bendix from the Merc if anyone is looking for one?

 

Mike, If I understand correctly, you are planning to use the Mercury cab? I have started a database for the 51-52 trucks,https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l-numbers.html I am not sure about Canadian trucks because I don't understand their serial number codes, but I did record the info off your rating plates on your first post here. Would it be possible for you to post the firewall stampings from the F5?

 

ok, here's the radiator saddles from both trucks, and I think I know why the one on the Ford (red one) was spread open. The radiator core is 22.5" wide, so it won't fit in the stock saddle.


The Merc saddle in front and the Ford that has been spread behind

So now I guess either I modify the Merc saddle properly to widen it, or am on the hunt for a new rad that is a 22" wide core.



detail showing the modified saddle

 

I would think spreading open the saddle like that would wreak havoc on the front sheet metal alignment. If it were me, I would probably look for a stock size radiator.

 

Well the plot thickens now.
Found a locakl place in Canada that can get me on of the US Radiator Flathead high efficency rads, but man does the exchange and shipping kill. $710CAD plus taxes! oh well it needs it.
In the process though, was talking with Classic Haulers and said their experience is guys burn up the Toyota PS box pretty quick on anything bigger than an F3. Anyone comment on that? I've still got the original boxes, but both seemed to have a lot of play in them, and would like PS for the missus if she drives it.
Plus finding F550 axles here is becomming a bit of a headache in Western Canada. They are few and far between.
Man I wish I was closer to Chuck to pick his brain on this one...
Still pressing on with the strip down though, and get the frame cleaned and painted at least and the motor while im at it too.

 

Are you saying you need a good steering box for the F5? I've got more and more reason for you to make a road trip to my place.

 

Cool truck, I love these big truck builds, excited to see progress

 

Well finally got around to making some progress.
Front end sheet metal is disassembled and ready to send to the blaster. Looks pretty good, just a patch or two in the usual spot on the tail of the fenders.

Cab is now off. It's toast as the firewall is cracked in a few places and the floor is Swiss cheese. If anyone needs a roof or a specific patch panel let me know before this goes off to the scrap yard with the Merc chassis.
A couple good supprises when starting to clean things up.
First, I do have a Canadian flathead. Re manufactured Ford tag under the coil shows the tolerances and that it was made in Edmonton Alberta.


Nice thing is it has the 3rd hole to do an almost full flow oil filter (since mine doesn't have one as of now). any experience with which would be a good spin on filter mount?


Along with the 3rd oil take off plug, there's another brass cap in the block down behind the dip stick. Any idea what that is for?


Also looks like I have a Ross Cam & Lever steering box, so much more rebuild able than the Ford one out of the Merc.


And would also explain the horn button center.


I haven't seen any other shots showing the R6 transfer case setup, so here it is in its greasy glory for now.


Everything is getting a clean; transmission case, intake manifold, and transfer case will get a cast aluminum paint job. Block I might just leave as is, as it still is in pretty good shape.
Next is to clean the frame up and get it ready for paint and take the springs off and clean them up too.

 

Looks just like my R32-4 doesn't it? The "R" series trucks with two speed case all used the same Wisconsin or Fuller transfer case. Stu

 

I was thinking the same thing Stu, 2 piece Wisconsin t-case. And not to add more work to your awesome rebuild but it looks like Captpayne has a reddish t case as well as my F2 MH. Dont get me wrong, yours looks great in black. I just wonder if they came out of the plant with that maroon finish.

 

Don't know, but think I found remnants of black. That reddish color could be left over red oxide primer. But I have seen them red. I think Rod K. did his red, and the 47 that's being discussed now on that forum has red I believe. Stu