Pulling turbo I easy, putting back on with no leaks is not if you have never done it. Make sure you follow steps posted on several threads. Its a pain when it leaks and you have to fix.

How I do it.

Loosen up pipe bolts on driver side at manifold. Dont remove.

Loosen up pipe bolts on passenger side. Dont remove.

Mount turbo making sure oil drain tube is in correctly.

Start bolts in turbo to mount but dont tighten.

Put clamp on y pipe with anti seize so it can slide.

Ratchet strap to passenger inner fender to y pipe.

Tighten ratchet while wiggling y pipe, it should snap in place. You can see when it has tight fit as no crack in between flanges.

Tighten clamp snug but do not overtighten. I use my 12 volt milwaukee 3/8 ratchet and when it stops I quit. I found they dont have to be super tight as it just holds in place.

Tighten turbo bolts

Tighten driver side up pipe

Tighten passenger side up pipe

Push up pipe in place and tighten clamp with antiseize same way as y pipe

Install turbo oil supply line and vgt wiring.

 

There are instruction video's available. Key points are...
Remove the clips that hold the wiring harness that is above the turbo, remove the bolts that hold the degas bottle in place, and lift the wiring harness up and out of the way. Tie-wrap it to the windshield washer. You have to remove one hose from the degas bottle - secure it out of the way and plug it so you don't get antifreeze all over the place.
Advice to loosen the up pipe bolts is good, but you can do it without. It just makes replacing the turbo a lot harder.
Once you get the turbo out you need to remove the hot housing. Take a picture or otherwise note the location and direction of the vee-band clamp that holds it together so you can replace it exactly as it is. Put punch marks on the housing so you can get it back in exactly the right place. Once the vee-band clamp is off and you've marked it, tap the hot housing off the center piece with a small hammer.
Once you have the hot housing off you can see the unision ring and the vanes. On mine, the unison ring was very firmly stuck into the hot housing so it came away and left the vanes on the center piece on their mounting posts. There are videos that show how to clean the turbo and what it should look like.
When you go to re-install it, what I did is lay it in place, get the oil drain tube in place, and put just the back bolt in place, just barely started the thread. That let the turbo flop around a lot, but kept it in the mount. That made getting the up-tube fitted in completely snugly possible without loosening the up-pipe flange bolts. Get the up-pipe flange completely seated all the way, and then install the vee-band clamp and tighten it, then get the other bolts started, then get the down-pipe fitted, then tighten everything up.

Hope this helps, have fun...

Brian

 

Sorry I disagree with you on loosening up pipe bolts making it harder. You might get lucky but if not you will not get y pipe to align right.

 

I've never loosened the up pipe bolts and my turbo realigned fine a couple times now.

 

Im sure some do. All im saying is mine didnt and from other posts im not alone.

 

My turbo went out at 90K found the intake boot was torn right at the turbo on bottom side so it was sucking unfiltered air, don't know for how long. The end result is that the turbo bearings were "dusted" and finally worn out. When they got bad enough the turbo would stick and not spin, then all of a sudden it would break loose and run fairly well. You can feel the looseness in the inlet side without pulling the turbo, before hand. I searched the internet and found a very good price on a new replacement Garret turbo. I actually didn't find the torn boot until I was putting it all back together so make sure you closely check all plastic and rubber parts in the air intake system.

 

The above clearly points to stuck turbo veins. Do you have a low boost code?

Reassembling the turbo without exhaust leaks is the difficult part. Take you time and loosen the exhaust pipes to ensure it won't leak. Tighten exhaust pipes (including manifold) last.

 

code? as in CEL?

ScanGauge BST reads 3.5 max when problem present -- reads 18-20 @ 60 mph when turbo is obviously working

 

You can have codes stored and not have the check engine light lit. Scangauge is not a very good code reader, check it with something better.

 

Found youtube video that exactly describes my issue.

His problem was clogged MAP port -- hopefully, it's that simple (and inexpensive). Will look into this tomorrow.

 

MAP port not plugged.

I did find a small rip in CAC boot (turbo end, hot side).
Won't know if that's only problem until new one arrives.

 

Original Intercooler crimp failed (4" area near hot side port).

New Mishimoto Intercooler-pipes-boots kit = good power/boost & shifts ok.

Only issue now is keeping the new boots on the new pipes (these don't have the ridge like OEM)

 

How'd you figure out the bad crimp?
Glad you're fixed up.

 

After checking what I could (many parts,sensors,hoses etc), finally went to "6.0 Joe's" in Tampa for a professional diagnosis.

His ears could hear a leak during a quick drive, so he did a "Power-Brake Boost" test = we could feel the leak blowing from the oily-residue area of the Intercooler.

(the oil issue was mentioned in one of my posts, but no one replied about it).

I was quite relieved to definitely see the cause of the lost boost, after paying nearly $1300 for parts.

Bottom line: Truck runs good & my Knowledge Base has been exponentially expanded !!

 

Cool deal. Thanks for the info.

2006 F350 4X4